Seiko goes Porcelain (345)

Published on Tue, 10 Jun 2025 20:25:47 -0700

Synopsis

In this episode of the Watch Clicker podcast, hosts Andrew and Everett discuss several new watch releases and industry news. They start by discussing Everett's attempt to quit nicotine for a life insurance test. The hosts then review new releases including the Accutron Space View 314 revival featuring a tuning fork movement, though they lament its high price point of $6,000+. They also discuss Citizen's limited edition Promaster Aqualand 40th anniversary watch, which they praise for its reasonable $600 price tag. Other watches reviewed include new Timex collaborations, Hamilton Khaki Field Auto color variants, and new Longines Conquest Heritage models. The hosts also share thoughts on everyday items like Mora knives and whiskey glasses in their "Other Things" segment.

The conversation has a casual, friendly tone with the hosts frequently going on tangents while maintaining focus on watch industry news and reviews. They demonstrate deep knowledge of watch movements and manufacturing while keeping the discussion accessible through comparisons and explanations of technical terms.

Links

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Transcript

Speaker
Andrew	Hello, fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 in 20, the Watch Clicker podcast with your hosts, Andrew and my good friend, Everett. Here, we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Everett, how are you?
Everett	I'm doing fine for now. For now. For now. I say that because I've just, in the last 20 minutes, quit nicotine. Because you're out? No, because I need to do a life insurance test. Oh, smart. Yeah. And so I'm attempting to defraud the life insurance company. But in any event, they do a blood test for nicotine when you get life insurance, term life insurance. So it means I need to be off of nicotine for a month or so. And that has happened in the last... 20 minutes. So I think I'll be fine. So is that non-nicotine? It is. It is. So I do have a zero nicotine vape that I'm going to use to hopefully crutch through this thing. I think there's going to be both like a dependency. Yeah, I've stopped using nicotine in the past since... Starting using nicotine as a teenager. I've quit on a few occasions. It's always painful. I always get there. It's always fine. And you always come back. I do. Yeah. Mostly just because I think using nicotine isn't as big a deal as everybody thinks it is. But with that said, I'm fine now. I'll probably be fine for the entirety of the show. I'll probably even be fine tonight. But I'm likely to have a rough week. Is my guess. In some respects. It's not that big of a deal. I'll be fine. But it's going to be weird. I've got a little bit of anxiety. I think is what I'm trying to say.
Andrew	You're going to be fine.
Everett	You're going to be fine. Of course. Of course. But I've got a little anxiety is what I'm trying to say.
Andrew	I think that's part of the, like the, the actual struggle of it is the anxiety around like, what's this going to be like? And you know what it's going to be like, but it's like, it's going to be uncomfortable. I'm going to be a little grumpy, be a little Jonesy. Yep. And every time somebody opens a green grizz around you.
Everett	You know, fortunately, it's been long enough since I've smoked or chewed or used anything besides, like, non-tobacco-based nicotine that I don't actually have a craving for tobacco anymore. I've switched it over. So, yeah, anyway, we'll see. I'll update you next week. How about that? Okay. Hopefully next week I'm through the worst of it. Hopefully, yeah. You know, that's usually about a week. Shit gets weird.
Andrew	How are you, Andrew? I'm good. I'm a little tired. I'm on back-to-back full work weeks where I leave work. Like, I come home from work and leave to go camping. And then come home, take a quick nap, and go to work. So I haven't had a day off in a couple weeks. And I say a day off because camping with kids is not... it's not particularly rejuvenating or relaxing. It's certainly fun. Yeah, sure. But it's, it's not that it's very different than like Saturday kicking it at the house. So I'm a little tired and, but other than that, I'm good. You know, the weather's been fantastic and I have, I have no complaints in the world.
Everett	How about that?
Andrew	Yeah. Yeah. of complaints in the world. None that anybody's worth listening to.
Everett	Yeah, no, I messaged you on Friday to say, hey, you should come over because I've got new really cool whiskey. Whiskey that you still have not tried at the house and you couldn't. Yeah, I know. I haven't given you any information about the really cool whiskey and I'm not going to now.
Andrew	I've not asked because I wanted it to be a surprise.
Everett	You can't drink right now, so I was going to bring it, but you're going to go to work and do official law enforcement functions, and you can't do that. Well, some people do. But responsible, mature, ethical people do not. Correct. Correct. So, yeah, Andrew, watch us go.
Andrew	Okay, so I am simultaneously very excited about this release and kind of sad. Bulova, excuse me, Accutron, revives the first fully electric watch with the Space View 314. And it is fantastic. Right? The Space View, I think, is one of my most favorite watches ever produced for a lot of reasons. Number one, it's just as cool as shit. And number two, it's kind of an accident. Right? The Space View was originally dial-less as a, like, hey, look how cool this is to sell to retailers. Like, look at what's going on in here. But people dug it so much, they were like, guess we don't need a dial. So here we have it. It's revived. There's some changes, right?
Everett	Yeah, Andrew, if you don't mind, before you go into the changes, I'll just give folks at home a bit of just the briefest 30-second background. So Bulova, specifically Accutron, released a watch in the 60s, I believe, that was a fully electric watch powered with a quote-unquote tuning fork movement. And the technology at the time was really innovative, really cool. And so they, as Andrew suggested, sold a display model. And that display model became popular enough that they released it as a regular watch. You've probably seen the one of these, even if you don't know what they look like. If you know what they look like, you know what they look like. But Bulova has in recent past released Accutron watches with quartz movements, not real. So they're high frequency quartz movements that sort of do a similar thing. The 214 and the 218 movements that the Space View came out with were really cool, but kind of a pain in the dick, hard to work on, fairly fragile. And so when Accutron and Bulova have released these in recent times, they've been with a more stable, better quartz movement. A few years back, they released a thousand versions. I think it was a 50th anniversary. They released a thousand pieces of a limited edition. old electronic movement. Well, here they've actually completely redesigned and redone the original 214 and 218 movements. This is a truly electric tuning fork movement. Baton back to you, Andrew. Thank you. We do get accused of burying the lead sometimes. So I just wanted to... This is a weird enough one. I wanted to take a moment.
Andrew	Yes. So... We've got a tuning fork back. And here's what got me disappointed, right? I know it has to be expensive. Case, 39 millimeter case, 13.4 thick. In the steel, 13.25 in titanium, 13.3 in gold. It's either 904L stainless, grade 5 titanium, or 18 karat yellow gold. There are a few dial options, case ring options, 30 meters of water resistance. Here's where it bummed me out. $6,000 for the steel, $6,200 for the titanium, and the gold is $3,150. I get why it's this expensive. It all kind of makes sense to me, and I generally accept it. I would have preferred this pushed a little bit closer to the affordable market. And I don't know that they can. Because I really want one of these, and I don't want to spend $5,000 on it.
Everett	Yeah, I think they've messed up the pricing here. $5,000 would be a deal. I think they've messed this up. Of course, I don't know what cost was. I don't know how much R&D was. best i can figure is they had to imagine very few people were going to want these is truly anachronistic technology and not just like oh all watch movements are anachronistic like this is really really just truly anachronistic technology and so i have to imagine obsolete technology that's right I have to imagine their pricing strategy is intended to decrease the amount of these that are in the market, increase the margins. Because when you look at this pricing, it really doesn't make sense, right? We know the movement didn't cost that much to make. It just didn't. And furthermore, we know that gold versus stainless steel is not a whatever, a $8,000. Yeah, that's right. That's right. So the $25,000 increase just doesn't track the $3,500 in extra materials or whatever it is. I don't know. I saw that number floated. I'm not sure that's accurate or not. But it's just we know it's more than it should be. So it does seem to me like they're pricing these to keep... to keep the amount of these in the wild low, which, whatever. I'm fine with that. I don't actually, that doesn't bother me. But I do think that they've messed this up. People would buy these at $2,000. I think that they're at $5,000 or $6,000 going to have an incredibly... I would, without hesitation, buy one at up to $2,500. Let's talk about the watch for a second. Because it is fucking gorgeous. Yes.
Andrew	I mean, they have the full spirit of the space view captured in this. They've pulled the crown over to the 430-ish. There's no battery hatch. in the same way, like just some minor changes.
Everett	Instead of a battery hatch, we've got a see-through case back, a display case back. We still have the pad printing on the underside of the crystal, which is just a terrific thing because there's no dial, right? You need something. We're going to make two links in the show notes here. One of these is standard watch release jargon. The other is from a website called the 1916 Company. I don't know a lot about the website, but this is a slightly more in-depth article that talks a lot more about... the electronics and the old and the new versions of this. So we are going to include that second. It's really cool. It is a really cool movement. And I don't think either Andrew or I are suggesting otherwise, but I love the tuning fork movement.
Andrew	I love this technology. I love the story of how the space view came to be because it's such a, like they didn't realize what they had. And then the market told them, and they went with it. It's cool to see a company be that nimble. Be like, oh, the thing that we wanted to do is not what we should be doing, and we'll just do it this way.
Everett	Yeah, that's right. So that 1916 article is prepared by Jack Forrester, who's a fairly well-known watch guy that people have thoughts on that I have no thoughts on. It's a really interesting article, but I just wanted to give a warning. If you don't want to read a Jack Forrester article, don't read that. Yeah, outside of that, I think it's terrific, Andrew, and I'm with you. That makes me a little sad. I just wanted it to be closer to affordable. Would you like to talk about another anachronistic watch that makes basically no sense for anybody to buy and otherwise makes me really excited to exist and doesn't make me sad at all? Yeah. So, Citizen. just released a limited edition. And when I say limited edition, I mean, I think there's going to be like 6,000 or 5,500 or something like these of these limited edition pro master Aqualand 40th anniversary, uh, watch which is a callback to the og aqualand watch and aqualand being i think it is the first ever digital depth display on a watch this is a anna digi watch they've got a huge Water depth sensor on the left. If you don't know what this is, look at a picture. You'll be like, oh, that's what that is. Anyway, these watches were incredibly popular 40 years ago, 1985, and have remained popular since then, despite very few people needing a depth sensor on their watch.
Andrew	And they're popular in interesting groups. This is a watch that I've seen featured on watches of espionage, on operators wearing these things. That's right. That's right. Like, oh, that dude actually uses that tool.
Everett	Perhaps. Or he just thinks it's a pretty cool tool based on his occupation. Anyway, these things are fucking rad. And they've just released a very, very, very honest version of the blasted gray steel and the two-tone. They call this the two-tone version of the OG Aqualand. And it's... Terrific. Yes. It's terrific. So, Andrew, I think you were about to say something, and I want to hear your thoughts.
Andrew	So I was going to say, don't let the initial spec sheet fool you. The watch diameter is 50.7 millimeters. Sort of. At its widest point, with the depth meter gauge on the left side of the case, it gets out to 50.7. This is a 44 millimeter watch with a significant protrusion.
Everett	Accurate. Yeah, that's right. It's not a 50 millimeter watch. It's a 44 millimeter. And it's a big watch.
Andrew	Yeah, it's 14.8 thick. Yeah. 200 meters of water resistance.
Everett	I mean, this is a 19... 24 millimeter lugs. Now, it doesn't make me sad because Citizen is selling this for $600. I know. If this said... If this exact watch with zero differences on it said Breitling on the dial... It would be 10 times this much, maybe 15 times this much. Citizen is like, fuck it. This is a $600 watch and you shall pay $600. Yeah. Thou shalt pay $600.
Andrew	And it's limited to 5,800 watches.
Everett	But that's not really limited.
Andrew	It's not limited.
Everett	That's a run.
Andrew	Yeah. It's a limited edition. A limited run.
Everett	It's just a run. Instead of having this be a catalog piece, they're just doing a run. Yeah. Right? But this is the same amount they would make if they were just releasing a new watch. Like, oh, make 5,800 of them. Yeah. And then when we run out, we'll make more. The only difference is they're not going to make more when they run out, ostensibly, because it's the fourth anniversary.
Andrew	It'd be cool if they made 14,600 of them. Why? Because that's 40 years of days for their 40th anniversary. I don't know what 5,800 is. It might just be like, this is what we produce in a week. We're going to change the dyes for a week and just run it.
Everett	It doesn't seem to be a number that's tied to anything. But it's beautiful. So we do have stainless steel that's matte. It's not titanium, despite the fact that it looks like titanium. This is the Pingo version. When Citizen released, they did have a titanium version. We're not getting that here. We're getting the gray matte finish with yellow gold plating. It's a black sunray dial, printed gold tone. It's terrific. It's well-loomed. It's got 200 meters of water resistance. And they're selling this with some sort of... biomass-based polyurethane that they call Benebioil. Yeah, I wasn't even going to attempt that acronym, Benebioil. It's a Cal 520 antedigy movement from Citizen, unidirectional dive bezel, ascent rate. Oh, it has also got alarm if you ascend too fast.
Andrew	Oh, don't get the bends.
Everett	Well, yeah. I mean, I think bends is actually the one diving thing that people still, you know, really need is some sort of bends awareness. If you're wearing a dive computer, obviously you don't, you're going to have that. But this provides that if you're free diving or whatever, whatever. I don't know anything about diving. I'll shut up now. But it's cool. It's neat. It's beautiful. I like it. And it's only 600 bucks. It's not 5,000 or 6,000.
Andrew	And like you said, any other brand shit, even with, even with citizen branding, it could be a $2,000 watch.
Everett	Right.
Andrew	Like the fucking Accutron. Yeah. And I don't think anyone, anyone would look at it and be like, Oh, this is unacceptable.
Everett	Yeah. Two watches, same parent company, a lot of shared approaches to watchmaking in the last handful of years, very different approaches. So I'm, I'm a big fan of this. I've got nothing bad to say about it.
Andrew	No, only good things. And it's a cool fucking watch. What's next? Next, we have an interesting collaboration between Noah and Timex. What the fuck is Noah?
Everett	I hate it when I read these articles and they're like, Noah? I don't know what Noah is. It's some sort of hot... hipster New York brand that I've never heard of. Don't tell me that Noah is a meaningful brand. Maybe I'm just old, but I've never fucking heard of Noah. And I even asked my associate, my 27-year-old associate, do you know what Noah is? And he was like, no.
Andrew	The National Oceanic Association of something.
Everett	I clarified that it was a brand. And he said, no, I've never heard of that. Then I showed him a picture. He was like, nope, never heard of it.
Andrew	Still don't know it. And you know, I don't really care about Noah. And frankly, I don't super care about the collaboration, but for this really great new case shape that Timex has.
Everett	I just care about Hodinkee telling me it's a Noah collaboration as if I should know what Noah is.
Andrew	Oh, I don't care about Noah. And then I don't care about the dial. It's a lovely dial. It's inspired. So it's the lighthouse watch. It's a really lovely black and white kind of. faded like ghosty black and white image of this quaint lighthouse that is supposed to elicit feelings of lighthouses on the east coast and that's not what i'm worried about What I like is this great 31 millimeter wide by 35 millimeter tall, gentle, soft rectangle case from Timex. And I'm excited to see if anything else comes in this platform. Because Timex is cheap, right? This is a $228 watch because it's a collaboration. I'm imagining we'll get some quartz versions of this and still this gold coated. It's not real gold, obviously. This gold coated case just with a white dial. I'm down with this. I'd get one of these. Because they're going to be under $200 when they release this case in other iterations.
Everett	Do we know if this is stainless? I'm sure it's not. Let's look. I got to tell you, Andrew, I have a totally gold plated... Okay, so it is stainless. So that makes me feel a little bit better. But my take on this is opposite of yours.
Andrew	Oh, really?
Everett	I think that this is Timex and perhaps Noah pissing on our backs and telling us it's raining. I do not... I like the case. I like the case visually. But it's got a shitter quartz movement. It's some sort of gold-plated shitter. Like, if you're going to make this watch, make it appeal to me. $228 is about $150 too much for this watch.
Andrew	For this watch, yeah. I'm not disagreeing with you. I'm saying this case now in the Timex catalog is what's exciting to me.
Everett	Yeah, but this case has been designed for... This is like a 1997... Timex release with a weird printed page.
Andrew	Yes, all of that I agree with. Now they have the dies cast with this case.
Everett	Yeah, but they're not going to be able to use this case for a decent movement because this case is made for and dedicated to their shitty-ass courts movement. We'll see. This is a piss on our back and tell us it's right. This isn't cool. We'll see. It could be cool. It could be cool. If they had a cool movement in here, I'd be like, this is cool. I think they will. But they don't. They made this for a shitty movement. Did I get you with the reflection? Yeah, you just reflectored me right in the eyeballs. I don't like it, man. I'm pissed about it. I'm not pissed. I don't care. But if I think about it, I get pissed. How about that?
Andrew	I think they're going to do something cool with it.
Everett	Not this one. Noah's releasing another successful step into the watch space. Fuck off. This is stupid. This watch is stupid. I think the case is cool, Andrew, but I don't think they're going to use this in a good way. I think it's just, I'm hopeful. I'm full of optimism and hope. Fuck. That's how I feel. God damn it. I'm already getting grumpy. It's happening.
Andrew	You're hearing the meltdown live.
Everett	It's too early for that to actually be happening. Hamilton. Hamilton released two new colors of the 38 millimeter khaki field auto. I'm going to tell you, Andrew, when I saw these, I was like, this isn't new. This is a new, this is old, but it's not. So the 38 millimeter khaki field auto, or do they have these in 38 and 40, Andrew?
Andrew	I'm looking for the article.
Everett	I think they're just in 38. So this is a watch that historically has not been released in a lot of colors. And Hamilton has added two very interesting colors to this line. One of those is a green and the other is a blue. And these are weird colors for Hamilton. Andrew, that's my take on these colors is that they are weird. And I mean that in a good way. So one of these is like a vaguely desert color. earth coyote color but it's not it's like a army green but also a little fde flavor in it but it's not fde no right it's not it's And you can tell in certain lights, it's very green because it is like a sunburst color, but it's got this like sector pattern where the texture, I mean, this is a typical application for, for Hamilton, but they use this sector pattern and their field watches, their automatic field watches specifically. And it creates like a, a lot of texture where perhaps there isn't that much texture. This sort of faux sector thing happening.
Andrew	I mean, there's quite a bit of texture under the hour numerals. There's that radial circles that pushes a lot of light around the rest of the dial.
Everett	And so this green, in pictures I've seen, it is sometimes very green and sometimes almost brown, but green and it's great. Kind of mossy. The blue, you'd be forgiven for thinking this is a typical... Navy. Because in some lights, this blue comes off as damn near aquamarine, even like leaning towards purple. So I look at these and in some of the marketing photos, I'm like very familiar. I can't believe that I haven't seen this before. And then I see other photos and I'm like, holy cow. I love these, Andrew.
Andrew	The green with a brown leather strap, money. Money. Money. It's great. And this is kind of the Hamilton way. Hamilton's leather straps are really good too. This is the Hamilton way of like, oh yeah, we should have been doing this all along. No one will be surprised. When they release new colors, it's like, oh no, that color already existed. It had to.
Everett	That's right.
Andrew	What do you mean that wasn't available before?
Everett	I don't believe you. This isn't new.
Andrew	Yeah. Which is, I don't know. It's... I'm glad they're releasing new colors. I won't get either of these.
Everett	Man, I got to tell you, I might get that. Well, I'm not going to either. But the blue, I would 100% get and wear this blue. Oh, yeah. Yeah. So what do you need to know? These are Hamilton 80-hour Powermatic movements. They are automatic, 38 millimeters, 47 millimeter lug-to-lug, 11 and a half thick, sapphire. 100 meters of water resistance blah blah blah and they cost about 700 bucks 800 bucks on a bracelet 730 swiss francs on a bracelet uh and they're terrific i love this watch somebody posted on reddit earlier they were like why does everybody hate hamilton i don't get it Who hates Hamilton? That's what all the responses were like. They're like, the fuck are you talking about? Who are you talking to? It was like, why does everybody in this forum hate on Hamilton as if it's a zombie brand? Someone's like, what? And the next comment's like, huh? And the next comment's like, what you talking about, Willis? And then the next comment's like, the fuck is going on here? As if it's a zombie brand. Well... I mean, I guess if I like squint and like contort, I can see an argument. But like nobody's saying that. Maybe. Maybe. Hamilton is awesome. And everybody loves them. Some of them. Some of Hamilton. Yeah, sure. There's also a big chunk of Hamilton. It's a giant fucking swatch brand. Yeah, of course, they're not going to hit every ball out of the park. But some of Hamilton sucks. Some of every brand sucks. True. True. Maybe not brew. None of brew sucks.
Andrew	Yeah, he has yet to release something I don't want. What's next? Next up for me, this is... Another Presage Classic series with unglazed porcelain dial. Not another unglazed porcelain dial, but an unglazed porcelain dial. It's a limited edition, the SPB 497. I don't care about the stupid Seiko story that they talk about. This is gorgeous. This, like, really lovely porcelain white dial, gold markers and hands. This, uh, I don't even, what is... the right way to describe this texture. It's like a basket weavy texture around the outside of the dial.
Everett	And yeah, it's just fucking, it's like a guilloche. It's like a, like an, a rose turned guilloche. But of course it's not because it's porcelain. Yeah. It's terrific. What, what porcelain watch did we talk about last week?
Andrew	It wasn't this one. There was another porcelain.
Everett	No, no, it wasn't.
Andrew	Oh, an ordained porcelain.
Everett	Oh, yeah, yeah, that's right. That's right. That's a glazed porcelain, obviously. So it's different, but it's also the same. If you can find this Seiko, if you can find close-up pictures of the Seiko dial and you zoom in, it's like, oh, that looks like clay.
Andrew	Well, because...
Everett	Because it's clay. Because it's clay, yeah. Oh, man, this is cool.
Andrew	Yeah, it's really cool. And the story of the artisans they're employing to make it have this really long tradition of porcelain working... Like dating back to the 18 something.
Everett	I think this is one of the few instances in which Seiko's telling a story that doesn't just totally offend me. Or maybe not offend is the wrong word, but just doesn't totally bore me. Like this is a cool story. They could have told it better though.
Andrew	Sure. They could have told it better.
Everett	It's Seiko. But this is actually like interesting. It's not like, oh, this is... Based on the granulations of the rice that splits in early autumn mornings. Yeah. You know, like, shut the fuck up, Seiko. Like, this is actually a cool story. Yes. With pie in, right?
Andrew	Yes. Limited edition of 1,200 bucks. They're going to be 2,000 euros.
Everett	Limited edition of 1,200 pieces.
Andrew	Yeah. What did I say? Bucks. Oh, okay. Whatever. 1,200 of these watches are going to be made, and they're going to be available in July.
Everett	Hallelujah. America. July.
Andrew	I won't be buying one of these. I'd really like to see one in person.
Everett	They're spendy, but I don't think that the price is wrong, right?
Andrew	I think they might even be on the value side of things. To get a handcrafted dial from a historic and special place. And it's a presage classic. The rest of it. The dial is the cool part.
Everett	Yeah, that's right. Yeah, that's right. I mean, it's not, yeah. That's all I have to say about that. No, these are really cool. No, I won't say it. Okay. I'm going to say I kind of wish the hands and markers were black.
Andrew	I do too, but I accept gold.
Everett	So you talked about the Timex that I hate. Oh, speaking of porcelain, enamel's kind of like porcelain.
Andrew	It's, yeah.
Everett	In some ways.
Andrew	I don't know.
Everett	It's fired. It's kiln fired. Meister Singer. A brand that seemingly releases a new version of its single watch.
Andrew	Every other week. We've talked about Meistersinger probably once a month for the last year.
Everett	And been kind of high on them, right? I'm about it. You know, the thing about Meistersinger is every time I look closely at a new Meistersinger release, I'm like, yeah, I want that. Like not every brand is that way. But Meistersinger somehow makes me want this stupid fucking watch every time I see them release a new one. So this is a 24-hour watch from Meistersinger. And as they do, it's got a single hand that... counts 24 hours in each full revolution. So 360 degrees equals 24 hours. Practically speaking, it's a single hand watch, if I didn't say that. Practically speaking, I think that these 24-hour Meister singers are probably able to keep time on something like... eighth of an hour increments right if you're good with like being around plus or minus three and a half minutes If you're good with that, I think that this watch will meet your needs in terms of timekeeping. If you're also carrying an iPhone or an Android phone in your pocket, I believe even more certainly that this watch will meet your timekeeping needs. This is an enamel edition of Meistersinger's 24-hour single-hand watch. And it is flipping gorgeous. It is. Yes or no?
Andrew	Yeah. I mean, it's like everything Meistersinger does. It's gorgeous. There's something about the way that enamel just absorbs light that makes it look... Really, really soft and supple.
Everett	I love it. Supple is a great word. Yeah. Supple is a great word. So essentially enamel, it's a powdered glass mixture that they apply with a sort of poof of powder. And then they fire at 800 degrees Celsius multiple times. It takes a long time, upwards towards 30% of enamel production runs in Anardane's production are tossed out because they're defective. I don't know. Or they break or it just doesn't. Meistersinger, I don't believe, has released those kind of figures here. At least not to my knowledge. But you might imagine that their rejection rate is going to be about the same. This thing is beautiful. It's a 24-hour Meistersinger, which is to say it's a 40-millimeter watch with 50 meters of water resistance that is something like... Eight millimeters thick. I'm just not remembering, Andrew. I'm sorry. I'm looking. I don't see it.
Andrew	These are really razor thin.
Everett	They're fairly thin. I think there's 25 pieces of these, which is not a lot. But they're gorgeous. They are.
Andrew	So with these... Interesting. They're inverted with the 24 being at the traditional 6 o'clock position and North being at the traditional 6 o'clock position. And another interesting thing... letters to indicate the cardinal directions, and the use of O for east. And I cannot figure that out. It's French, right? Is it? Why? Don't bother the Google. It says they're wrong. Nobody does that.
Everett	Google says that?
Andrew	Yeah.
Everett	It says the letter O is not commonly used to represent east. Yeah. I don't know. It's interesting.
Andrew	Kind of makes me like it more. I don't know why.
Everett	It's a Foucault Pendulum. Ost is German for East. I don't know. Love that watch. I'm just going to say for the record, that's my guess. I don't want to talk about that watch. Oh, it's your turn. It is my turn.
Andrew	You've got to talk about it. I have a boring one. The Green Abyss Blanc Pond X Swatch Bioceramic 50 Fathoms. I don't think it's boring. It almost made my list. I think it's my favorite color release of it. Certainly mine. So a green bioceramic case, a really well executed green bezel with, or excuse me, like green bezel, yeah, with a black insert. closer to tan than Fotina on the markers and font on the bezel. It's a really great color release. But it's also a little boring because it's a 50 Fathoms iterative release.
Everett	Have you considered getting one of these? Yeah. I'm genuinely considering getting one of these and I'm genuinely considering trying to get this one.
Andrew	I consider it. Often. And I was like, I also know that I'm just going to be whelmed by it. I'm not going to be excited about it. I'm not going to be disappointed about it. I'll just be whelmed. Cool decoration on the case back. Or on the back of the movement through the see-through case back. Yeah, I mean, it's 50 fathoms worth. A good new color.
Everett	You know, Andrew, I see a Speedmaster roughly once per month while I'm wearing my own Speedmaster. For some reason, I only ever notice them when I'm wearing mine. Which is some sort of psychological thing. But that is to say, I see a lot of Speedmasters. The Speedmaster is ubiquitous, iconic.
Andrew	Yeah, it's a watch worn by not-watch people.
Everett	I also regularly see Moonswatches.
Andrew	Also worn by not-watch people.
Everett	I see them all the fucking time. Never have I ever... In the wild scene, a Blancpain 50 Fathoms or a Swatch 50 Fathoms. What are we calling them? What's the nickname? I'm just blanking on it. Blancpain is exotic. this watch is not well known or common. I think that's what is got like into my head. That's, that's the worm that's driven itself into my psyche. I'm like, this is really cool in a different way. I'm going to stand out. People are going to know about me. No, no, it's the opposite. No one will fucking know what this is. But if they do, they do. But if they do, they do. Yeah. Right. That's right. That, that's what it is. No one's going to look at me and be like, oh, that guy's got a Blancpain on because nobody knows what fucking Blancpain is. But if you meet someone that cares about watches... They're going to be like, oh, that's interesting. I haven't seen one of those. I see guys in moon swatches all the effing time. All the time. Especially now that you can buy them online. You don't assume those guys know anything about watches. You just don't assume.
Andrew	Because it's safer to just bet that they're like, oh, that's neat.
Everett	Because it is neat. But I tell you what, if I saw a guy in a swatch 50 fathoms... I'd be like, hey, homie, let's talk about your watch.
Andrew	Yeah. Oh, and he'd just need a change of underpants.
Everett	Or he'd pretend that he doesn't know anything about watches and run away like many watch people do. Yeah. When I approach them.
Andrew	I mean, if you saw a Blancpain in the wild, that would be.
Everett	Same, dude. If I saw 50 fowls, I'd be like, whoa.
Andrew	What up?
Everett	That's cool. Yeah. I agree. I agree. That's kind of what's in my head. Do I have to go again? You do. It is your turn. Do I have to go again, though? Because maybe I want to be done. Okay. Yeah. Don't want to talk about that. Don't want to talk about that. Oh, launching. Yep. Launching. Okay. Andrew, did you notice as you were reviewing for this episode that there was a lot of articles titled hands-on review? So many watches come out. Every week there's several dozen meaningful watch releases. Yes. We talk about some of them, but certainly not all of them. One of the things I've learned as I'm preparing for an episode is that a hands-on review means a watch probably came out some months ago. So a lot of times I'll see this hands-on review and I'm like, oh, this is a hands-on review of that watch that I noted at the time. But both of us have fallen victim to hands-on reviews. Of watches that we didn't immediately recognize and then realized later we talked about them in an episode six months earlier. Like, oh, so-and-so released a watch. And then people are like, they released that six months ago. Not only did they release it six months ago, you fucking talked about it six months ago. Well, we're still talking about it now. Anyway, I think like three-fourths of the watch articles that were published in the last week were hands-on review.
Andrew	Yeah, it's like they announced two months ago, three months ago, and finally got watches out to market.
Everett	So when I read this article, I was like, oh, this is a hands-on. It's not. So Longines... introduced last year a watch called the conquest heritage and when they did so they released us in two colors i want to say uh one of those was black and another was silver both of them had gold accents and and they both came on a strap I believe we talked about this watch on the show. And we're like, oh, that's interesting. Move along. They released this week, Longine has released three additional versions of the Conquest Heritage. So what this is, is it's a Conquest with a much more vintage looking case. Is that fair?
Andrew	Yeah.
Everett	And dial and crystal. And you're like, oh, it's a conquest, but vintage looking. Right. Is that going to be weird? The answer is yes. Second question. Is that going to be fucking awesome? Second answer. Nailed it. Yes. So what is this? It's a. fully polished sports watch that's what it is yep it's a fully polished sports sports watch with 60 style markers and dial and it's terrific now i don't think it was terrific when they introduced this thing last year yeah i think this is absolutely an improvement They've released it on an H-Link bracelet. That H-Link bracelet is much like the modern Conquest's H-Link bracelet, except that this one, instead of having a butterfly clasp, has a deployant clasp with a micro adjust. I can't find a picture of the micro adjust, but I suspect it's shmedium. In any event, it is a deployant clasp. We're replacing a butterfly clasp, and I'm like, heck yeah, especially given...
Andrew	On a sport watch, I'm good with that. I love butterfly clasps.
Everett	I'm medium on them, but now we have a micro adjust internal, not like a tool-less micro adjust. So we've got a tool-less micro adjust deployment clasp versus a butterfly. Heck yes. H-Link is not cheap.
Andrew	But it's also, it kind of makes sense. We have a 38 millimeter case, 45.6 lug to lug, 10.8 thick. 10.8 thick. Or a 40 millimeter case, 48 lug to lug, and 10.8 thick still. 50 meters of water resistance. 3,350 euros on a bracelet? I think I'm good. Same. That tracks. This doesn't feel like a, ooh, why are they pricing it up line like that? No, this is the lunging price.
Everett	Yeah. I mean, it's not cheap, but you're right. This is a great price. I mean, because it's competing with like Tudor or... Perhaps Manta, although there's not really anything. There's just no comps.
Andrew	This seems to be like fighting entry-level Grand Seiko kind of feels. Perhaps King Seiko. Sure. They're attacking that.
Everett	And this is like a solid six millimeters thinner than any Grand Seiko that's ever been released at 10.8. I think this is super cool, Andrew. I can't think of anything else that's like this.
Andrew	The lugs on it are just like gently sweeping and soft and fucking great.
Everett	So now, I said, they released three versions of this. They released a black, or excuse me, a green with gold. They released a white. With gold. I think it's kind of like a silvery white.
Unknown	Yeah.
Everett	And they released a blue with stainless steel markers. And it's the only one that has silver markers in the whole collection. All five watches. And the blue is the champion. Yes. 18-quart karat gold gold medallion on the back of these, which has some historic provenance. I don't know what it is. It's a fish in a, like, green resin pond. Have you seen the medallion on these? Mm-hmm.
Andrew	Yeah, they're dope. 18 karat gold medallion. I want this watch.
Everett	Super short lugs that are just sexy as fuck and weird. Yeah. I want this watch. Did I say I want this watch?
Andrew	You mentioned it.
Everett	It's an L8888, which is at a movement. 72 hour power reserve. Cool movement. I don't know much about it. This thing's cool, man. It's good. And I think the price is okay. I don't hate the price. No, I don't hate the price at all. Only 50 meters of water resistance is maybe the only... If you really wanted to grump about something, grump about that.
Andrew	Yeah. And I think that's a fair grump given the design of the watch. This should arguably have, even with just a push-pull crown, should have 100 meters of water resistance.
Everett	We always say, just do 100. Yeah. Just do 100 because... Because it's probably 100 anyway. It's cheap and easy to do 100.
Andrew	It's probably 100.
Everett	I'm with you. Yeah. I'm with you. Yeah. Just do 100.
Andrew	I like the 38 and 40 sizing decision. Instead of going way small, like a 36 and a 40. Yep. I'm with you. I think I would even prefer a 38 and 40 to a 36 and 38 for this watch. I wouldn't do 40. I think 38 is as big as I'd want to go on this watch.
Everett	You know, this is a weird conversation. We should talk about this sometimes. But my initial reaction is that 37 and a half and 40 and a half is a better spread. But I'm not prepared to defend that. So let's move it along. Okay.
Andrew	36 and 40 would, I think, have been a good spread. Yeah. Yeah. Because I, yeah, it's whatever. I'm just... waxing poetic at this point.
Everett	And it's frankly not even that poetic. It is, though. Just because of your voice.
Andrew	I don't really care about anything else that we have on the list.
Everett	Let's fucking move it along. Other things, what do you got?
Andrew	Oh, okay. So this has been an other thing before, but it's been some time since we've talked about it. So I want to revisit this. There's a company out of Sweden called Morana.
Everett	Oh, it's been a very long time, like probably single-digit episodes.
Andrew	Probably. So I think I would most closely compare the affordability, functionality, and quality of Mora Knife to Dexter Russell. Right. Super commercial grade, high quality and crazy affordable. So I have the what's it called? The Craftline Basic 511 high carbon steel fixed blade utility knife combi sheath with a three point six inch blade. These things cost twelve dollars on Amazon. $12. So like I said, I've been camping the last couple weekends. I don't super dig the Kydex sheath. It has a little lug on the outside that allows for accessory attachments that they sell. which I don't super like because it kind of gets hung up on your clothes, but the rest of the sheath is great. It secures it nice and tight. It doesn't bounce around. It's got just enough retention that you actually have to give it a little bit of a pull to pull that knife out. The grip on it, for this 3.6 inch blade, one of the things that you run into when you have a short blade is often a short handle. The handle is a full grip, like full hand, great purchase on it. And it's just fantastic. It stays sharp. It's easy to clean. I have used it a ton in the last couple weeks because it's just a great utility knife that you can throw on your belt and use the shit out of. What I was not aware of was because I found this via a listener, actually, and then just found it on Amazon and bought it. Their whole line of products is fascinating. I think I'm going to roll the dice on some of their kitchen knives and just see how it goes. Because I'm so pleased with their like entry level super basic utility knife.
Everett	Yeah, sometimes this stuff doesn't translate, right?
Andrew	Sometimes it doesn't, but the quality of the steel is great. They hold an edge really nice. That unfinished Scandi spine is really cool. It's just cool. Everything about this is cool. The bang for your buck is fantastic.
Everett	And for the record, their kitchen knives are not Scandi grind. They're just standard grind. Oh, are they? Yeah. I would not buy a Scandi grind kitchen knife.
Andrew	I wouldn't either.
Everett	The reason a Mora knife Scandi grind works is because it's essentially a disposable. Like, you're not going to sharpen this fucking thing.
Andrew	No, you're just going to buy a new one. Yeah.
Everett	Like, if you need to get an additional, like, you might strop it. You might run it on a steel. But you're not going to, like... sit it down and actually sharpen it. Some people might. I'm not.
Andrew	No, I'm going to spend 11 more dollars and get a new one. I wonder, like, I'm intrigued by their higher end knives, like going into the hundreds for their outdoor knives.
Everett	Yeah. I actually find... So I'm sort of not with you here. I find their more interesting knives to be their $12 and $20 knives.
Andrew	Oh, because they're cool.
Everett	I mean, they sell like a 14C28N knife for $100 that's basically just like... their regular knife. And I'm like, eh, I'm just going to buy the $12 one. Yeah. I don't want this. I don't want the 428 or 4C20, you know, anyway. I think you were right the first time, Andrew.
Andrew	I'm going to buy more of these just to like have them.
Everett	places well that's the other thing is you can buy them at fucking walmart or dicks or cabela's or whatever like you don't need to order it like if you live in a city population 150 000 or more you can between the hours certainly of eight o'clock and ten o'clock and perhaps the hours of 24 go buy one of these there's got to be walmart's that are still open 24 hours right I don't know. I don't go to Walmart all that often and certainly not at night.
Andrew	I only need Walmart after midnight.
Everett	That's a fair. Yeah. I have, Andrew, another thing. Do me. I think when I first got them, I made an other thing of the Glencairn whiskey drinking glass. Perhaps. So if you're at all involved in whiskey, you know what a Glencairn glass is because they're ubiquitous. This is sort of a champagne, fluty-looking glass with a short base, specifically designed for nosing. They're fairly narrow. They're thin-topped. They're affordable. You can get four of them for $35. They're just the glass, right? You get a set of six for $38. There you go. The Glencairn is just the glass. This is the glass. If you're watching a YouTube video about bourbon... 96% chance that they're using a Glencairn. Someone recommended to me recently a glass from Libby, the glass maker, called the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. And supposedly this is endorsed by some bourbon trail organization that does tastings and blah, blah, blah. I don't know anything about that. I just went to Amazon and I bought this glass because they're similarly priced. They're priced similarly to the Glencairn, which is to say about 35 bucks for four of them. And I ordered them and then they arrived at my house and then I poured whiskey in them. And I really like them, Andrew. So here's what I will say. It is functionally very similar to a Glencairn. If you are not drinking with these things together like at the same time and like back and forth nosing them like a weirdo.
Andrew	Which you did.
Everett	which I did. Functionally, you can't tell the difference, right? It looks just like a Glencairn, but fat.
Andrew	Yeah, like the Glencairn let itself go for 10 years. That's right.
Everett	It's fat Glencairn. Yeah. That's good. But, you know, you're getting all the same things, right? It noses similarly. It drinks similarly. So, like, in terms of the sensations of whiskey, I don't know that you would be able to tell the difference unless you were back, you know, like head to heading these. With that said, it is different. It is different. It's heavier. And I noticed that. It's a little heavier to hold. But after that, everything else is nicer.
Andrew	It probably has half again the amount of material.
Everett	It's more casual. I can take a drink without my nose feeling like it's in the way. It's just the liquid rolls out. It doesn't spill quite as frequently as a Glencairn. It just feels less precarious on the table and in my hand.
Andrew	I really like it. It looks more like a glass you drink out of, and a Glencairn looks more like a glass you taste out of.
Everett	That's right. So I think that's perfect, Andrew. Actually, that's really close to the way I would have stated that. So they're cheap. And I got four of them. And I'm glad that I have those. And I'm glad that I have Glencairn's. And I think if you can afford to have both of them, maybe just have both of them because they're both kind of cool. What I would say is if you're focusing on whiskey... You might want to use a Glencairn. If you're focusing on the person whom you're drinking whiskey with, you might want to have a Bourbon Trail from Libby. That's my thought. I think it's clever. I came up with it today, and so I wanted to say it on the air.
Andrew	Well done.
Everett	I'm clever. Ish. Ish. Andrew, anything you want to share before we get going?
Andrew	No, I'm out of things, man.
Everett	Hey, folks, thanks for joining us for this episode of 40 and 20, the Watch Clicker podcast. Yeah, I quit nicotine, at least for the time being. It's going to be fine.
Andrew	You're going to be fine.
Everett	Check us out on our website, watchclicker.com. That's where we post words about watches and pictures sometimes. If you want to follow us on social media, you can do that at Instagram, at 40and20 underscore watchclicker or at watchclicker. That's where we post updates about things we're doing on the website and, of course, on this show from time to time. If you'd like to support us, and oh boy, we hope you do, although I'm buying less nicotine, we still need money to make this show happen. You can support us on patreon.com slash 40 and 20. That's the URL that you can go and donate one to five or perhaps even $20 per month to the show. Andrew gave me a look at 20. He thinks that's bold. And don't forget to tune back in next Tuesday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Bye-bye.