Ok, Jack Mason, We See You (328)
Published on Tue, 11 Feb 2025 00:09:44 -0800
Synopsis
In this episode of the 40 and 20 Watch Clicker podcast, hosts Andrew and Everett discuss several recent watch releases and industry news. They begin with commentary on Super Bowl Sunday and the cultural significance of witnessing potentially historic moments in sports. The episode then moves into watch discussions, covering new releases from Orient's 75th anniversary Bambino collection, Credor's Locomotive re-release, Seiko's enamel dial Presage, Baltic's Hermetic dual-time Enduro watch, and Jack Mason's 10th anniversary Pursuit Pilot. They particularly praise Jack Mason's evolution from a fashion watch brand to a serious watchmaker. The hosts also discuss personal items, including Andrew's experience with a Carhartt apron and Everett's customization of a Spyderco Para Military 2 knife using shoe polish.
Links
Transcript
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Andrew | Hello fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 and 20, the Watch Clicker podcast with your hosts, Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here, we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Everett, how are you? |
Everett | I'm good. I'm negligent on the pot here for, uh, the audio. I realized that I got a little distracted. Um, so I apologize to anybody at home who's, uh, feeling critical about having to suffer through this terrible audio engineering. |
Andrew | I just, I'm honestly, if I were you, I would, I'd probably just stop listening right now. |
Everett | Andrew, I'm doing well. Superbowl Sunday for us. By the time you hear this, obviously you will know the results. Um, you know, I, I, I, I think I have a bone to pick. Uh, it's not a bone to pick, but it's an observation maybe. And maybe a critique of, of the thing being observed. Uh, it seems like there's a lot of like negative cultural, um, takes about Kansas City, and Patrick Mahomes, and I think maybe you can break that down any way you want, right? There's maybe some good reasons and likely a bunch of bad reasons, but I'm like, I really don't care about Philadelphia or Kansas city. And so I think if you care about one of those two teams or one of the teams that got stomped on on the way to where we're at, then maybe your feelings are different. But, but I think just statistically speaking, the vast majority of the country doesn't really care about either of those teams. |
Andrew | And besides like the fanboys. |
Everett | And even if you include the teams that were beat in the, you know, Oh my team, that was a, you know, bad call on, you know, Oh, okay, sure. But, but getting past that, like I think dynasties and greatness and like as frustrating as it might be to see one team really like be there every year like i'm just tired of them like okay i get it but that seems to it always seems to go to a place that like doesn't make any damn sense like isn't it cool to be witnessing a historically significant game And I don't mean this game, this Super Bowl. I mean the game of the Kansas City Chiefs and Pat Mahomes. I mean, say what you will about the players, say what you will about the teams, as if these teams have personalities. I guess maybe they sort of do. But I am really very, I don't care about the Chiefs. Never rooted for the Chiefs in my life. I probably won't root for them today. I am, however, in awe of what we're witnessing, and I'm trying to enjoy it. I think it's really cool. |
Andrew | You know, it's the same thing. Everyone hated Tom Brady and the Patriots during his reign of terror. |
Everett | Or Joe Montana and the 49ers. |
Andrew | Everyone hates the team that's on top because they wish it was them. |
Everett | No, I know. I know this isn't a new thing I'm observing and I know it's not a new phenomenon and certainly that's not what I'm trying to say. Uh, I think I'm more like just observing it and complaining about it. |
Andrew | I, I have like, I don't care about either of these teams either. But I really look forward to watching the Super Bowl every year because it's just fun. It's sometimes a really good game, sometimes a really bad game. I think this is going to be a pretty competitive one. |
Everett | Uh, what do you think about the, what do you think about watching historically significant moments in time like this though? |
Andrew | I, it's super important. |
Everett | I think like maybe overstating, I may be overstating Patrick Mahomes greatness or anything that will be decided after this game, but I don't think it's hard to, it's not hard to understand what I'm saying. |
Andrew | No, being a witness to historic moments is important. Like we have these things in our head, these important milestones that maybe or maybe not seemed historically significant when we saw them in our lives. And I think the Superbowl and watching like this dynasty, like kind of, Establish itself right up to this point This has been kind of in the fledgling Fields of a dynasty. They've won quite a few Super Bowls, but they're still like There's still something to prove. I feel like especially coming on the heels of Tom Brady. |
Everett | Yeah, and it's important That's a good that's a good point Andrew as we sit here now. We're five hours from from kickoff probably roughly Yeah, and so we don't know what's gonna happen and and you at home you You've got a lot more information about what has actually happened than we do as we're recording this. And so anything we say that sounds silly now, maybe rule out that knowledge gap. With that said, I'm pumped for it. I don't want to go so far as to say, I hope that Patrick Mahomes pulls off a stunning victory and that the Kansas Chiefs secure their place in history. I'm not going to go quite that far because I just don't care that much, but I do relish the opportunity to witness, I think, what is likely to be a historical moment, especially if they win. If they don't, I still think that there's... I'm still going to eat a bunch of chicken wings and drink some beer. And there's still some, there's still some possibility for it being a historic moment. With that said, um, yeah, I believe it was an Eagles win. |
Andrew | I mean, like it, no matter what, this is going to, we're going to have fun. |
Everett | We're going to have fun and the idea that we could be witnessing perhaps the crowning of maybe the greatest quarterback to ever touch a football today. I mean, I think that after today, if Patrick Mahomes wins, if the Chiefs win, I'll just be fair to everybody. I think we're going to see a lot of people suggesting he's undisputedly the GOAT, right? I mean, whether that's true or not, and I'm not saying, I just do think we're going to start to see that. |
Andrew | We're already seeing it. He's already in the conversation. I think today it it I mean, it's the Jordan LeBron Debate except that he's maybe Jordan Yes. |
Everett | Yes. It's like, it's like the opposite, right? Tom Brady is LeBron, like just kept getting back there and kept scoring the points and kept doing the things. How old is Patrick Mahomes? He's like 19. Yeah. |
Andrew | He's not even, he's 21. |
Everett | What's it? Can he drink yet? |
Andrew | I think he's, I think he turned 22 this year. |
Everett | No, I think he, I think he is 27 or 28, but he's not 30. Yeah. With that said, I mean, we're just, it's 29. We've never seen anything like this. You know, it's, it's really fun and who knows what happens, but I'm, I for one am excited to see perhaps the history happen today. So moving on, Andrew, how are you? |
Andrew | I'm, I'm good. I, uh, I got up this morning. I did some, some early prep work yesterday. Got some wing sauces made. I made a third one today. I've got my wings drying in the fridge. I got some queso ready to smoke. So I'm doing great. This is one of my favorite annual traditions. |
Everett | You always do a pretty good spread. You're a spread kind of guy. |
Andrew | I am. |
Everett | Andrew, if you guys don't know this about Andrew and you maybe do, if you've been listening for a long time, you've probably picked up on this. Andrew is more than anybody I've ever met in my life. And I mean, I don't, that's not an exaggeration. More than anybody I've ever met in my life, the best at planning feasts and doing all of the things, spending perhaps two or three days, getting them ready, thinking about them, planning them out, and then just sort of, But it's not just the fucking Superbowl, you guys. |
Andrew | Yeah. It's any reason I can find. |
Everett | It's like Tuesday, right? I came over to Andrew's house on what day was that? Friday? |
Andrew | Yeah, it was Friday. |
Everett | Friday. I, I needed to, I needed to go to Goodwill this weekend to drop off some big items. |
Andrew | Oh, the tote on my porch is yours. It was in the bed of my truck. |
Everett | And I don't have, oh, thank you. I don't have a pickup truck and I had some big items I need to get to donate. And so I came over on Friday, just popped in and said, hey, can I borrow your truck this weekend? Yeah, of course. But as I walked in, there's the sound, unmistakable sound of cooking. like all burners going four of four burners being utilized actively. Also a sous vide. Also I'm making shit up at this point. |
Andrew | There wasn't a sous vide going, but there was, there was one of the burners in fairness was, was chicken stock because I was, I broke down chicken earlier in the day and realized that I had five gallons of chicken chunks, like bones and like junk. |
Everett | Andrew's wearing an apron, can barely look up, but it's like, yeah, yeah, bro, no problem, no problem. And I'm like, what are you doing? And he's like, oh, I just, I wanted to do dim sum. And so it was like, like if you went to the Chinese restaurant and ordered a conservative set for five people, this is what you would expect to see this level of spread get delivered to your table, this dim sum spread. And it was all restaurant quality. I mean, it's just incredible, Andrew. I'm gonna, I just, thank you. I'm lavishing some praise on you. I appreciate it. It's fantastic. It's really impressive. You guys. |
Andrew | And you went home with some dumplings in the key to my truck. |
Everett | I went home with the gateway. I got a new F one 50 and some, uh, shrimp pork shumai. |
Andrew | Yeah. |
Everett | Cool. Uh, we're not here to talk about dim sum or football. |
Andrew | We could, we could, we could talk the entire day about dim sum. I'd be good with that. |
Everett | Rather, we're here to talk about watches and we got some watches to talk about. Interestingly, we maybe have fewer watches than we normally have to talk about, which is still to say too many to probably get to all of them, but we overlapped on 95% of our selections. There was one or there were two that we didn't overlap on. However, we did overlap on them. I selectively Removed at least one of them. So we're like almost completely lockstep this week Well, and you know what? |
Andrew | It was a little bit of a slow week Not a whole lot of releases not a whole lot of cool big stuff And that's okay Because what did happen is interesting and worth talking about. |
Everett | I'm going to start. Yeah, yeah. I was going to say, I think that there are two really, I think there are two really, really obvious selections. And I don't know if you're thinking the same thing I do, but let's avoid those and let's push those to the end. So let's start with less obvious and work our way to more obvious. |
Andrew | I'm just going to start with less interesting. |
Everett | Okay, go. |
Andrew | So, We have a 75th anniversary edition of the Orient Bambino coming in with four new colorways and they're lovely. |
Everett | 75th anniversary of Orient. Yes. Bambino releases. Yes. So not the 75th anniversary of the Bambino, which is like, just sorry to interrupt you. |
Andrew | No, you're right that I, I said it in a little bit of a confusing way. Uh, here's the problem with it and it's such a huge classic orient misstep. They went with the 40.5 case on this instead of their smaller case. And the problem with the Bambino in its entire identity is that this is a really lovely dress watch that's way too big. This watch should never have exceeded 36 millimeters. And even the small one is like, what, 37, eight? |
Everett | Yeah, I'm okay with this up to 38. I mean, frankly, I think it's hard to make an argument that 38 is too big. |
Andrew | It should be the large size. The small Bambino should be the large and the 40 millimeter needs to be phased out. The colorways are nice. We have kind of like a bronzy cream with, like the pictures make it seem kind of rose goldy. A white with blue hands. |
Everett | Yeah, I think it's rose gold, yeah. |
Andrew | A moon phase with a calendar on a blue dial and then a moon phase calendar on a really nice like rosy burgundy. |
Everett | Wait, you're seeing a moon phase on the blue dial? I don't, I'm not seeing a moon phase on the blue dial. Are you, maybe I'm not, do you have eyeballs? Oh yeah, there is a blue dial moon phase, but there's also a three hand, got it, got it. Sorry, sorry Andrew. That's okay. |
Andrew | Carry on. You know, it's, it's really typical Orient 41.5 millimeter case. It's a Bambino, right? With some new, some new dials. Under 500 bucks, I mean, they're lovely. I love this watch. I own one of these watches, but I never wear it because it's too big for what it is. |
Everett | Yeah, yeah, you know, it's got to be, it's got to be a supply and demand decision, right? They've got to still be selling more of the 40 millimeters. I wonder if Orient is, is separating out sales because of like available supply. I mean, it's still way, way, way easier to get a 40 millimeter, 40.5 millimeter bambino. than it is to get any other size, right? And so it could be that they're saying, well, that's our biggest seller. Well, that's because that's what you're putting out to the market. I think if Orient just made the decision to move towards the smaller watch. |
Andrew | Yeah, just phase out the 40 and put it in the 38. Because the people who are buying the 40 are still going to buy it at 38. And you're going to capture people who have a problem with it at 40 who are going to buy it at 38 or 36. |
Everett | You know, I think the winner from this release is the actual 75th anniversary version, which is a stark white dial. It's not a cream dial, which a lot of times Orient does. This is a stark white dial, which I appreciate. We do have rose gold markers and blued hands, which is, I think, a fantastic look. White with rose gold and blued hands is really, really classic. understated but also interesting combination but hear me out the font at 12 o'clock is this classic orient cursive script and it is fantastic it's so good. It is really good. It's so, so good. If this was available in 38, even at 350 bucks, which is what they're asking for 360 bucks, which, oh no, no, the limited edition are 450. Yeah. So that's 360 euro. Um, they made like 10,000 of these. So it's quote unquote limited, um, for most brands that would be like a 10 year run. Um, That to say, I think that this watch, this watch is just stunning, but for the size, we've got the weird dimensions, I think it's like 19 and a half. All of these with the new in-house. |
Andrew | 14 too thick. |
Everett | Which is unsurprising. These are great. If you love a Bambino and you love the OG size, you know, that's not too small for, that's not too big for you. I think these are, the colors are great. The moon phases are good, but that 150th anniversary, I'm like, dude. 75th. That's what I meant. You're buying two of them. Yeah. Great. Yeah. These are cool. But, but as you said, a classic orient misstep blunder blunder yeah um okay i should probably talk about a watch now huh is that the way we do this yeah we could do that credor uh let's let's keep it in let's keep it in japan credor as we know is seiko's sort of you know seiko's got seiko they've got presage they've got What's the, is it Prospects? Prospects? They've got, is that right? |
Andrew | Yeah, Prospects. |
Everett | Prospects. They've got, of course, Grand Seiko, but probably the brand of the Seiko sort of brand, quote unquote brand, that gets the least, the least mileage in a show like this one, for instance, is Creedor. And that's because these watches are, I think there's a couple of problems with Creed or watches for the American market. One of those is they are designed with distinctly Japanese tastes in mind. There's no problem with that, of course, but I do think that it lends to them being a little bit less appreciated in the West here where we are. And I don't mean the Western United States, I mean the Western Hemisphere. But also they're just almost universally very, very expensive. And so they're sort of a niche Japanese taste focused, very expensive watch brand. With that said, I think creators are very highly appreciated for it. It's a, if you know, you know, situation. and if you like the taste. So they released, or re-released perhaps, the Locomotive in 2024, I think. Was it just this last year? And we talked about this watch. It's beautiful. This is a Genta designed, and clearly Genta designed, sort of, I'm gonna call this an organic hexagon. because the corners sort of curve in this almost like a Yeah, it's just a curve. |
Andrew | It's a really gentle, subtle curvature. |
Everett | That's right. |
Andrew | But there's definitely sides. |
Everett | And so this is a re-release of a 1979 watch, and I think that they did the 1979 watch a lot of justice with this release, this heavily grained radial brushed dial, like a really heavy brushed, like that Seiko sort of organic, non-consistent brushing. They've released a new version of this and I freaking love it, Andrew. Let's get this out of the way, this is an expensive watch. |
Andrew | It's 15 grand. This isn't an impulse buy, so don't... Or do it on impulse and just like see what... See what the wife says, man. Just see what shakes out, yeah. |
Everett | Instead of this radial brushing that they're so famous for, this has a... They're, it's a hexagonal. It's like a hexagonal tile brush or tile dial. And that... It's like honeycomb. Like honeycomb? Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. That's fair. You know that honeycomb doesn't start hexagonal. They make round holes. It starts to spit. And the holes are round. You know, I think I've always thought, well, how... how crazy that the bees are able to make these hexagons that's that's so they're just holes but because of the way they orient them for maximum efficiency they form themselves in hexagons anyway long story short this has a hexagonal kind of an elongated hexagonal pattern on the dial but the colors the greens are random or apparently random Or maybe they're in lines. Anyway, it winds up looking like tiles. Like if you just get 200 tiles and you stick the tiles together and they're all a little bit different color and you just put them down at random. |
Andrew | I think they're linear, but it's hard to focus on them. |
Everett | Yeah, yeah, that's right. It's gorgeous. It is gorgeous. Gorgeous. And it is doing something that Seiko, I think doesn't often do, which is being deliberate in their dials in a way that doesn't ape some sort of organic, like randomness. This is more like structural and geometric, which I'm here for. |
Andrew | You know, I have just the opposite feeling. This 1979 dial, is phenomenal. It's like this brush stroked out of varying weight on the brush stroke. |
Everett | I like the 1979. |
Andrew | Feathering radial out from the center of the dial. The last year's release is very Grand Seiko-esque. It is that, it looks like an organic material, like shavings. And this is, you know, it's new, a different iteration of it, but this 1979 dial is just. Yeah. Um, these are, and they stayed really true to the design, which I think is a really important thing to note is so often we see these reinterpretations when we see re-releases or when we see re-issues, we see a modernization or reinterpretation of what it should have looked like or what it should look like now. Like more an inspiration rather than a true reissue. And this has stayed very, very true to the original design. The exception being just better machining of this in-link-ish connection. It's just cleaner. That's where they've updated. And they've updated it purely because of the technological abilities that have have improved in the last 40 years. |
Everett | I'm going to call this a captive central end link, right? There's no lugs here. So dimensionally, this is just a bit under 39 wide. It's just a bit under 42 long. But there's no lugs, right? The case has a recess cut at the 6 and 12. It's like a hooded lug. Which holds the center portion of the end link captive. And that's the entire end link. And then we just abruptly go into the first link and it sits in space. That first link sits in space and it even projects out from the case. You'll know when you see it. You'll know what I'm talking about. If you're like, what are you talking about? I would just pull up a picture. It's not my favorite. That's not my favorite. But they've done it really well here in terms of a watch that I would sort of move towards. This isn't maybe my most preferred style. However, they've done it really well. It's gorgeous. It's very much, I think, this is a watch that's very much in the times right now. It's hard to argue that this isn't following modern trends. |
Andrew | It's because it's titanium, it's razor thin, 8.9 Thick on this thing. |
Everett | Yeah, and that's because of that. That's because of the automatic CR. Oh one movement from credor, which is in-house, of course and Lovely and super thin hundred meters water resistance to they're like, yeah, this is a sport watch guys it really is and I I Really appreciate the design, but God it's ugly as sin. |
Andrew | I It's super cool. I'd wear this shit out of this. I'd wear it. I love it. |
Everett | maybe a little less traditional, but I would say no uglier than a Santos. If you look at it, you know, and I love a Santos and I know you, you obviously met money where your mouth is. Love a Santos. |
Unknown | Yeah. |
Everett | It feels to me like maybe less, maybe just a touch less traditional than a Santos in terms of construction. But I think this is really cool. It's not going to be for everybody. Like you said, it's also 15 grand. Yeah, that's right. But really, really interesting. It's such an interesting watch. And if you're wearing a Creed or everybody's going to be like, what is that? |
Andrew | And if they don't ask, what is that? And they say, oh, I know what that is. They're going to be, they're going to be stoked. Yeah. |
Everett | If you like most of us and sorry, I'm going to say it. If you like most of us want to communicate with your watch, that's fair, right? Yeah. You're saying something about yourself or saying something about you or particularly, particularly in this space, right? You're communicating to other people with your watch. And if you deny that, then, okay, whatever. You're listening to a podcast. Shut up. Uh, but like, this is a watch that you're communicating to people about your decisions. And I think for the right people, they're going to, they're going to think good things about you. Yeah. Cause it's not a, It's not a Rolex, it's not a Omega, whatever. Anyway, we can move on. I really like this watch. |
Andrew | Me too. Since we're talking about Psycho, we have a new enamel SPB495 to the Presage Craftsmanship series. And it really is just lovely. That's all I wanted to say about it. It's like we have a new enamel dial. I love the presage series. Case sizes are getting a little weird. This is a 40.2 millimeter case. It's 12 one thick. It's just I get that we have an enamel dial, right, and you really want to highlight that, but come on. Why's it got to be so big? It's a great case shape. The dimensions are wrong for me, but everything else about this watch works. We've got a calendar six o'clock disc Great great handset on this thing. It's an enamel dial. So it's just fucking gorgeous. That was me, by the way And you know what 1,500 bucks like 1,500 euros, so For an enamel dot. |
Everett | Yeah. |
Andrew | Yeah for like that's what you're gonna pay We get the 6r 5h movement in there like everything about this is great except that it's 40 millimeters. |
Everett | Yeah. Again, they're making this for a different market and a different, I like, I like that Seiko's got enough range that they're able to release things kind of all over the place. So yeah, I think it's terrific. |
Andrew | This crown on this case is just |
Everett | Yeah. What are, what are we going to call that shape? I mean it's crown shaped. |
Andrew | Yeah. I mean it's, it's crown shaped. We've got great stepping between the bezel. |
Everett | Can we do that? Can we do that? Can we coin the crown crown? |
Andrew | Yeah. Crown crown. |
Everett | Crown crown. But you have to say it fast like that. You can't say a crown crown or worse yet a crown shaped crown. You just have to say crown crown. |
Unknown | Yeah. |
Everett | Like a little kid pronouncing crayon. Yeah. Give me my crown crown. Yeah. or like some adults pronouncing crayon. Yeah, the enamel is beautiful. You know, I think these are renders. They've got to be renders. Yeah. But there are a few places where the light bounces. It's got like a curvature to it. This enamel diode, like the middle section is gently and ever so lovingly sloped down away from the crystal, just a fraction. |
Andrew | Just a fraction. And the clean lines of the Roman numerals really emphasize it. It almost looks like a stepped dial. |
Everett | Well, I guess it is a stepped dial, but the way they've done it... You know, there's one image here that's clearly a photograph of an actual watch, and you don't see it. And that could just be lighting or whatever, but... |
Andrew | But you you do you get the sense of that depth if you look at like that that 10 to 12 curve You can see something happening there. |
Everett | Yeah It's it's it's a beautiful watch. I'm kind of i'm probably kind of with you andrew that it's a little too big um I'm gonna stay away from that for just a little bit longer and i'm gonna stay away from that for a little long. I got one uh, arcanine Did we we have? talked on the show about these ARC II Arcanaut watches, right? |
Andrew | If we haven't, they've been on a list. Oh, okay. Like to talk about, right? And we just didn't get to it. |
Everett | Arcanaut is... Arcanaut is a brand of watches? |
Andrew | Is that fair to say? A watch brand, maybe? I like a brand of watches, though. |
Everett | And they make pretty cool watches. So I think that they are out of Copenhagen. And they're just sort of watch nerds, led by a fellow named Anders Brandt. And I think also Rob Nudd works with Archonaut. And they just make really sort of different but excellent watches. And these are not cheap watches. I think we talked about their Fordite Dial Arc IIs a while back. |
Andrew | I think that's when we did talk about them, yeah. |
Everett | These are not inexpensive watches. But they're also not unobtainium. non-unobtainium. They're available. And so the ARC-II, we don't, that's not really the point of what I'm talking about, but if you don't know, I'll just tell you, this is a CNC machined 316L case. Sort of feels to me a little bit like some of the stuff we were seeing out of Vero when we went up. |
Andrew | Very like innovative design ideas, very cutting edge. But you know that that true combination between watch design and like Industrial design of how can how can we match to these two theories these two schools of thought and combine them in a really modern and still |
Everett | traditional way. I think that's right. Yeah. And I think they're largely using so prod and 100 movements, which is a sort of underutilized and really pretty terrific watches. I think dimensionally we're looking at their 40 points, something 40.5 relatively thin, a hundred meters of water resistance. Um, you know, all the good stuff. They're using good, good loom, good, they're making their own hands. They're making almost everything in house or, or, or custom sourcing parts. They released a watch this week that I really liked. I really liked this watch. It's different than anything I've ever seen. It is an homage to the Statue of Liberty, which is, being released because on October 15th, 1924, President Calvin Coolidge declared... Old Cal. Old Cal Coolidge. Is that who your son's named after, Calvin Coolidge? declared the Statue of Liberty a national monument. Obviously, story being it was a gift from France, based on our mutual sort of support of each other during the revolutionary period, although we would shortly then abandon them. But they still gave us a statue. And, you know, the Statue of Liberty is probably the most iconic piece of American architecture. Is it fair to call this art? |
Andrew | but I don't know if architecture, I think it's one of the most famous icons of America, right? That and the Air Jordan silhouette, I think are the two most recognizable American icons. |
Everett | It's certainly one of the image most closely associated with the United States. I think that's fair to say. So, okay, but wait, none of this is important. None of this is important. So what they did here is they took just their regular case, regular everything, And they in-house developed a copper carbonate composite material and then put a UV-resistant binding agent in that, which allows the copper to form a patina that imitates the patina on the Statue of Liberty. Everybody knows the Statue of Liberty is green but it's copper and it's green simply because it's copper. It's copper and it sits out in the rain and gets oxidized. Now if you take copper, if you've ever seen a copper watch, they're typically not green. Even a copper dial typically doesn't go green because you're not getting enough moisture in there, and the UV is counteracting the oxidation process. If you've got enough moisture to make a copper dial green, you've probably got a problem with your watch. |
Andrew | Yeah, the movement's not doing it. |
Everett | So they've in-house, okay. |
Andrew | I think they just aged copper, right? They created, they found a way to like flash it and make it repeatable. |
Everett | Their marketing materials are pretty self-congratulatory. It's cool as shit. I'll give it to them. I don't, I'm not going to say, I'm not going to stand by them directly, but what I am going to say is they've done something cool, given us a cool effect, and it's beautiful. I mean, it's just beautiful. And I love the fact that it's copper. Like how easy would it have been to just do a green dial. Right. Yeah. |
Andrew | They did the right thing here. As excited as I am about all of the innovation and the fact, so the reason they're doing this collaboration with a collective horology is because, Oh yeah, I didn't say that. I didn't say single and only us retailer of Arconaut. Uh, we have this really great ode to the statue of Liberty, In the dial right with a lot of innovation. We have technology and research and development and all the things that arcanauts doing But then they went america as fuck on the case back The case back is a close-up of like a personification Of the torch of the statue of liberty with some stars around it a good grimace face of it Like it's just america as fuck and it's awesome, right? It's and and I think I think they really captured this interesting American thing with this really regal, lovely dial and then went like trailer park, just fun. Like it is like fun. Yeah. Getting out on, on like the dunes on a side by side America on the case back. |
Everett | You know, of course, we've never had the guys from Arcanon in the show. I've never talked to those guys. I don't know them at all. But it does seem like they've got a bit of an Americanophile approach to their watchmaking. You know, their appreciation of Fordyte in particular is just, like, they really sell how that... is this American, you know, Fordite being... This American waste product that's just awesome. And they lean into that aspect of it, right? It's really just stacked paint, but they lean into that association of Detroit and Ford Motor Company. So this is a really cool watch. Really, it's here not because of the watch itself, although the Arc II, I think, is maybe an underappreciated watch. It really is this dial material is why this made my list today. |
Andrew | No, the dial material and the case back is super fun. Like everything about this watch is great. Yeah. And it's, it's kind of weird and great. Andrew, what's next Bubba? Ooh, next up for me. We're doing fine on time by the way. We are. That's why I had to double check. Oh, you know what? We'll, we'll talk about, uh, the new Baltic Hermetic. Yeah. Dual time Enduro Palais. Yeah. This is a 50th anniversary watch for the bicycle race. |
Everett | I think they're motorbikes, right? |
Andrew | It is motorbikes. Yeah, it's not. It doesn't matter. |
Everett | They're dirt bikes. They're dirt bikes. |
Andrew | It's an Enduro race, right? This is a watch being made for this partnership that celebrates racing. It celebrates. |
Everett | I think it's, it's common common parlance is the Enduro Paul or Paulet perhaps, which is a French race where 3,000, three, it's sort of like a, uh, like a Mad Max three hour bike race. They start everybody on a giant line and they like, You know, you can imagine in Mad Max, they might have clubs or spikes on their tires. I don't think they do that here, but they easily could. And it's everything but that, right? So these guys are jockeying for position, taking hard lines, trying not to die, already dangerous activity, and now they're jockeying for position in space. It's a very cool race, a little bit brutalistic. |
Andrew | Is this one of those Enduro races that's as far as you can get in the time allotted? |
Everett | It's, oh, I think, I don't know. I think so. I think it's a time based race. |
Andrew | Yes. I should have looked up more about the race. Regardless, this is a 37 millimeter case, 10, eight thick, 150 meters of water resistance. Just the perfect like go anywhere, do anything sport watch. It's powered by a 90 39. And it is beautiful. |
Everett | I'm with you, Andrew. Beautiful. Yeah. This is on both of our lists for today. Almost everything is. |
Andrew | So we have a two stage timer between the 12 and just after the three o'clock. Sorry, no, go ahead go ahead I'm trying to like create in my head from the 12 to the 2 we have this really good Almost Statue of Liberty green. It's not quite that It's a little maybe a little greener. Yeah, it's not quite earthy more saturated. Yeah, it's it's it's clearly a designed green and then from the 2 to 1 the 310 It's purple. Mm-hmm Rest of the chapter ring is this really lovely glossy black with a gray matte dial in the center of this. It's fucking good. Dual colored hands, gray on the color match to the dial, hour hand, color match to your timer, your green timer, second hand. Baltic is like always doing cool shit. And I, I feel like maybe we don't, we here don't give them the necessary appreciation for the cool stuff that they're doing. And, and I don't know, like they just, they rarely hit my radar. They're, they're rarely a watch brand that I talk about. They're really a watch brand that I think about. And yet I love everything that they do. And would wear everything that they do. |
Everett | I wonder if maybe the, I maybe wonder if the problem you're bringing up now is an us problem. Cause I do think Baltic is in the minds of people. We've talked about the Hermetique before. In fact, I think on two different occasions and said just nothing but good things. I love this watch. I believe you love this watch. size on this thing. So it's a 150 meter water resistance watch that's 37 millimeters wide and 10, eight thick. I mean, it is absolutely, I'm not gonna say perfect dimensions, but in terms of what it is, I think it's approaching perfection to be under 11 millimeters. and have 150 meters of water resistance tells me that Baltic's priorities are aligned with mine in a way that's notable. Now, I've got one other thought about this watch, Andrew, and if you don't mind giving me just a touch of time, I'm going to say a thing. I'm going to give you some time. I'm really, really enamored by one thing that Baltic does. We're very used to watches releasing color way colorway collaborations or special editions, right? It happens all the time and there's nothing wrong with it, right? Like we're supporting this event and so we're releasing a special colorway. That is not what this is. This watch is different than any other Hermetique that's ever come out in a few ways. One, it's a twin stick. This is the first ever twin stick Hermetique. So it's got, instead of one crown, it's got two crowns. They're at three and nine, which is in and of itself a little weird. And they're depressed into the case. They're recessed. Yeah. And so this, they call it a dual time because that nine o'clock crown controls a rotating, sub-dial, so where the old train track, where the train track minute markings are on the OG Hermetique, this has a rotating sub-dial, not sub-dial, rotating... Internal rotating bezel. Internal rotating bezel. Thank you, Andrew. So of course, the race is not going to start at 12 o'clock. And so what you do is you turn this thing and it gives you a countdown timer or a count up timer for your race duration. And so whenever the race starts, you turn that crown to the hour marking and then you know how much time has elapsed. So clearly a watch meant to be worn on your right wrist. Yeah, perhaps. Yeah. Yeah. This is a well, it's it's of course, there's nothing inherently In terms of just wearing it, there's nothing inherently... For use, though, to set your time at the start of that race. |
Andrew | Having that nine o'clock crown more accessible than I'm going to reach over. contort yourself. |
Everett | And in the picture, Andrew, and in the one picture of this on somebody's wrist in the marketing materials, it's on the right wrist. The correct wrist even. Yeah, that's true. The monochrome has posted some pictures on the left wrist, but in the marketing photos, it's right wrist worn. So it's really cool. This is really cool. It's a one-off with an actually sort of unique complication, Baltic. |
Andrew | Baltic. And for a 200 piece limited edition, it's under a thousand bucks. |
Everett | Yeah. And it's impossible to argue that this is not a thousand dollars worth of watch. Yeah. In terms of dimension, uh, what they're doing with it, it's got a decent enough movement. Me under 90 39, I think at a thousand bucks, some people might say, Hey, give me something a little fancier than that. But I personally don't think there's anything wrong with a 90 39. It's a noisy movement. It's a noisy, but you know, whatever it works, it's easy to replace. Uh, I will say the first comment on the monochrome website is, wow, will they make one for gens too? I of course don't know exactly. And the second comment is, come on, this would have been such a good watch at at least 40. Well, those people don't know anything about watches. But maybe, Andrew, maybe, Andrew, we have to take a step back and realize not everybody wants 37, 38 millimeter watches all the time. |
Andrew | I don't want 37 38 millimeter watches all the time. I'm wearing a Nighthawk right now. Yeah, that's a big old bitch big bitch. |
Everett | It's Andrew, you know, I'm wearing my SKX today. I know look at us 2018 in it up. |
Andrew | I Saw that you were wearing that I was like, oh how appropriate I But I do love this watch. I wanted a big bitch today. |
Everett | That's how I felt. |
Andrew | I said, give me something big. And when I want that, that's what I want. But more often than not, for this style of watch, that's not what I want. I want 36 to 38. 40 is acceptable, but by and large, I can't. |
Everett | Yeah, 42 for me is relegated to the weekend. 42 and above 13 millimeters thick is weekend wear only. |
Andrew | And if I want a big watch, like I want it to be big, like actually big. I want 42, 44. I always forget you have this, Andrew. This is such a good watch. I wear that a lot. And I have it on a Barton Silicone Elite, because as good as the bracelet is, it's really hard to size. Yeah. And it's just so good on the silicone. Yeah, that's a great watch. Because it's heavy. enough without the bracelet, but it's also not that heavy like it. I don't know, it might be. It's about as heavy as my SKS. Yeah, it's about the same weight and you know, half again as big and just like almost illegible. I love this watch. |
Everett | As much as my, as much as my. I love this watch too. As much as my tastes have changed over time. We haven't had a. That's an Uncle Seiko Z199 that I've got on there, which I think is a terrific bracelet. It's a little less jangly than the SKS. A little less jangly, yeah. Yeah, as much as my tastes have changed, both these watches, just putting them on my wrist right now, I'm like, yep, you still got it. Still got it, baby. Yeah. And then, and then that's the OG. You can, you can hear, hold on. Let's see if you can hear the grime. Do you hear that? You can hear the spring. You can hear the spring taking on tension and releasing itself. There's almost like a ping. Hold on. Let's see if we can do it one more time. You can hear that spring like letting go and pinging. Like there's a little bit of a slow. I love it. I love this. I love this. Okay. Am I up? Who's up? You're up. Okay. Are we? Not the continent, but you, you are up. Are we there? Oh, we got one more. We've got one more before we get to the good stuff. And everything's been good. And this is good. Brew, brew, brew. That's not what I expected. Oh, okay. So we're thinking slightly different things. That's how that happens. We've got, well, let's just say this. We've got three, I think, bangers. We don't have enough time to talk about them as much as we should, but we'll get through them all. Jonathan Ferrer launched at the end of 2024, the Metro Supermetric. Uh, we've got, we've got some really interesting new stuff coming out from John. I'm going to say this John is He's got a style. And so if you expect these to deviate from that style, you may be disappointed. However, what we've got is the super metric that's really, I think, kind of putting his ass out over the edge on this one. And they're coming in in a range of colors that I think, for me, makes these watches a little bit different than anything else John has done here. |
Andrew | But all so familiar. You wouldn't look at this and be like, oh, new release. It just seems like part of the stable. |
Everett | That's right. So on Watchanista, who wrote this? Watchanista, Rhonda Ritchie, and I don't know Rhonda. I'm sorry, Rhonda. The supermetric, Rhonda makes the observation that the supermetric has moved brew from the 70s into the 80s. And I think she nails it. |
Andrew | Yep. I think that's a perfect description. Um, so what we've got even like the late 80s started to flavor in the 90s. |
Everett | Yeah. She actually references anyone who grew up watching. I love the 1980s on VH1 and the odds. Um, which I'm like, okay, so you're a little younger than me. That's fine. |
Andrew | Uh, my, my nine year old, reference something that happened in the 1900s. He was like, oh yeah, that happened in the 1900s. I was like, that's 1995. Chill the fuck out, man. Like, I remember that shit. Don't. No. |
Everett | So what we've got here, so we've got three colors. We've got the burnt orange. We've got the electric blue. That's the one. And we've got the royal blue. I'm with you that the electric blue is my favorite of these. It's got sort of that like combination of blue and red. that creates like a little bit of purple, but they're like heavily geometric, which it should be no surprise. And then we've got yellow, like pushed over to the side. They're like, oh, also we'll give you yellow. We've got a great combination. We've got white sub-dials that almost appear as if they're pouring through an aperture. Great handsets. |
Andrew | Also these dials are all like this base, |
Everett | Super heavy pebble. |
Andrew | Yeah almost look like leather Yeah, they do have a organic softness to them, but they're all dark with these with these really classic classic brew color additions and and he's moved really heavily into like geometric shapes and matched Two o'clock pusher to the colorway and |
Everett | I don't know how long Brew's been doing business, but it seems like they're sort of tracking about a 40-year gap in terms of... So probably 10 years from now, we'll have killer 90s Brew stuff. John, you nailed it. So this is a metric case, right? You're not going to see anything different. Still $475. There's still VK68s. Surprises are few and far between, but the dial is the magic here. An evolution on the design of Brew is what I'm going to suggest this is, and I'm here for it. |
Andrew | I absolutely am too. And when I, I, when brew first came out and they had the, the espresso timer and they had these really unique designs, I remember on this show talking about like, what can they do next? Like where does this go? And it just hasn't stopped. |
Everett | Yeah. It's awesome. Yeah, that's, that's right. I think we're, I think we're maybe in a place where people are going to take brew for granted a little bit. I don't think, his sales have gone anywhere, still making the same fantastic watches, the same fantastic prices, now with a really sort of interesting evolution on his designs. I'm here for it, John. |
Andrew | Thank you. I want to read just like a brief bit of this. I know I've written this before, but it feels like every year I say my next watch purchase will be a brew. And every year I hold back because experience has taught me that the brand will introduce something even more thrilling in a couple of months. And that's been the trajectory of Brew. He's costing himself sales by coming out with too much. Quit being so good, John. And you know, maybe, maybe chill a little bit so that the rest of us don't look so bad. Also, if you wouldn't mind having just, I don't know, three or four inches of your shins removed. So you're not so much taller than me. |
Everett | You know, Andrew, I said we have three watches left, but now we have three watches left. I'll let you take your choice, but there's two of these in particular that I'm excited about. I'm excited about this one, this one, and this one, and I'm less excited about this one. |
Andrew | You know what, I think that's probably the right one to talk about and hold the really good stuff for the end. Okay, so let's blast through that one quickly. Zenith and Revolution, Chronomaster Revival, CoverGirl Carbon. These are cool, right? These are really cool. This is an all carbon case. We have, hang on, let's... We're using an El Primero 400 movement, which is exactly what you want out of a really good chronograph. 37 millimeter cases, 12.5 thick, all, I don't know what, modulus, exactly means because I'm not an urgist of any kind, but these are all carbon cases. 50 meters of water resistance, and they're just cool, right? Everything Zenith does is just cool. And right up to the edge of boring. There's nothing boring about this fucking watch. But it's right there. Because the real innovation is that it's carbon. And it's blacked out, it's cool as shit, and I have a hard time actually getting excited about |
Everett | Zenith in any way. I think they're outside of our, I think they're outside of our price range for one thing. Even if they were in my price, price range, what's happening? |
Andrew | Even if they were in like the zone of a watch that I was going to buy, I don't know that I would pick Zenith over anything else at the price point. |
Everett | Yeah, I mean, I don't know. So the deal with these, these are 12,300 bucks if you get them the wrong way. If you get this watch the right way, which is on a carbon fiber bracelet. |
Andrew | Which is cool as fuck. |
Everett | It's 27 grand. And so already we're really talking about a watch that you have to have an income level different than mine to really be thinking about. And so I think from the perspective of you and I, if we're gonna buy one $27,000 watch, maybe, that could happen for me, it's not gonna be this. No, but if you've got disposable income of a couple million dollars, and this is something that you're like, I want something cool as shit. It's pretty fucking cool. Like, compare this to any Richard Mille ever been made. yeah i'm like the zenith the zenith is looking kind of sexy to me you you've got you've got all the chops you've got all the bona fides you got el primero you've got carbon fiber bleeding edge technology and it weighs absolutely nothing the the this watch released in 2022 |
Andrew | in titanium, this carbon release is 23 grams lighter. |
Everett | But like if you give me 27,000 and like ever, this is the only time in your life you're gonna have 27,000 spent on a watch, choose carefully, I'm probably looking at like vintage Calatrava or something, right? Like I'm just not in the market for this watch. I'm not the target audience. It's a once in a lifetime purchase for me probably. And so I'm just not in the market. But I think that there are a lot of people that spend a lot of money on watches and this would be kind of a banal purchase for them in terms of the money. All of a sudden this becomes like, oh, okay. |
Andrew | If you're one of those like one watch people, or like that maybe like accumulates a few watches and then you, whoa, fucking. bird almost crashed in my window. Uh, you know, you like over time decide, you know what, I'm gonna, I'm gonna liquidate and buy something bigger and then kind of add to it. Like if you eventually get your buying pool up to this, this would be a fun short stay watch. Like I would like to have it for six months and then like my enjoyment of it I think would just be done. |
Everett | Yeah. Yeah. Maybe. Maybe, yeah. Okay, onto a watch that I think is going to get ignored largely, and I think there's some reasons that it's gonna get ignored largely, but I think it is. every bit as cool as anything we've talked about on the show today. This isn't a watch, a watch from Omega. Omega is a brand that you've heard of. Um, this is a brand that's got a historically significant, um, relationship with the Olympic games that they have. really marketed to death. I don't mean to poke fun at Omega about this because it's a very smart business move. They've released, I think their first watch, maybe not, I think this is the first watch that's meant to celebrate the 2026 Winter Olympic Games in Cortina, Italy. And, uh, it's a banger. I say first, because I assume Omega is going to release probably 15 or 20 skews specifically for these games. Um, I don't know where I got that number from, but it sounds right to me. And it feels like it's not unreasonable. |
Andrew | It feels like a consistent amount. Like, you know, we have a two years really until Well, I guess about a year. |
Everett | That's right. So this is a very, very, um, vintage feeling Seamaster. And when I say Seamaster, I mean that and they mean that in the classic sense of that trademark. Uh, we've got a 37 millimeter moonshine gold Milano Cortina. Um, this, this worn and wound article written by, Elodie Townsend, again, Elodie, if you're out there, we are rooting for you and we're cheering for you, and she's written a lot of really great art quotes that we've talked about on this show. Elodie says, while the name is exhausting as an Olympic biathlon, The Milano Cortina's design and specs will be familiar. We've got 18 karat gold, which is one of Omega's newer alloys. Omega really does a good job with their in-house alloys that I think are forcing other, whether that's moonshine or sedna gold. Moonshine is sort of their new baby. |
Andrew | It's a couple years old That's right. |
Everett | We've got it. They've got a I believe it takes silver which gives it a pale So whereas a lot of these are using brass in place there They're replacing that with silver which gives it sort of this pale and long-lasting Shine, it's not warm in any regard. That's right. It's like bright bright yeah and and sort of maybe a little understated even um we've got a grand few i always say that word wrong i'm sure enamel dial we've got diamond polished dauphine hands this this watch is stunning and it really feels like a 1960s Deville um and it's got these it's got these lugs Andrew. It's got these lugs. Clawfoot is perfect. They sort of take a sharp downward turn, and there's a word for it, and I'm struggling to find it in the article that I've printed, Andrew. Um... What is the word, Andrew? I'm looking, I don't know. Okay, well, they use a phrase for these sharply downturned lugs, and I love it. I love it. The lugs are sort of separated from the case in a way that feels very vintage. This watch is just terrific. |
Unknown | And furthermore, furthermore, 20 grand for full gold? |
Andrew | If you give me $27,000 to buy a watch, I'll return the Delta. |
Unknown | The dimensions are perfect. |
Everett | It is an Olympic watch, so if you don't want sort of a one-off, but you've got 100 meters of water resistance, you've got a master chronometer, coaxial 8807 movement, I mean, this is just opulent. well-sized, gorgeous, tasteful. |
Andrew | It has all the feels of a vintage watch, but you're not gonna have vintage watch issues. |
Everett | I haven't found a dimensional, I haven't found a dimensional up and down Z-axis on this. I gather that it's probably, it's got a big domed crystal and it's got a bit of booty, but you do have that really slender, Omega mid case. I'm guessing this is coming in at 12 or maybe even more. |
Andrew | It looks that way, but the downturn of those of the lugs like that really, really severe angle on the lugs, I think will make this wear like a like a 12. |
Everett | Yeah, maybe, maybe. Or maybe even less than that, Andrew. I think it's gonna work just excellently. I think this is a terrific watch. I love it. I wanted to talk about it. I saw it. I think it's gonna get ignored. I think people are not gonna love it. I think people are, to the extent they don't talk about it, it's just because they are not excited about it. But I think this is an exciting watch. |
Andrew | It's because it's a novelty watch, and Omega does 10,000 SKUs a year of weird novelty watches. Last but not least, Andrew, the watch we kind of have to talk about. And for a lot of reasons. The Jack Mason Pursuit Pilot for the brand's 10th anniversary. And Jack Mason is a really interesting brand. Jack Mason is a brand that we've been familiar with since the beginning. Because 10 years ago, Jack Mason was a really affordable, kind of like... underwhelming brand. |
Everett | Yeah. Wholesale quartz watches. I mean, they just weren't moving the needle in a way. I don't think that's unfair. I, they weren't moving in the needle in a way that I was impressed or took note of, but we were aware of them because they were affordable. |
Andrew | Their designs were largely attractive. Like they, they were, they were finding themselves. And then about four years ago, five maybe, I think, |
Everett | I think three or four years ago when they released the Stratotimer. |
Andrew | Yeah, they made a significant pivot and it was really intentional. |
Everett | And maybe kicked off by Miyota's release of the 9075, really bringing the GMT movement, the automatic GMT movement to the masses. Jack Mason was one of the first brands, I think, that I noted taking advantage of this. I've got my preferences between both Seiko and Miyota have now done this. I'm maybe a Miyota fanboy when it comes to movements versus Seiko. And I say this as a man wearing a 7S26. You know, I think Miyota's entry-level movements are just terrific. And Jack Mason took that 90-75 and made a cool launch. |
Andrew | And they really embraced it. And with that embrace changed from kind of a fashion brand. |
Everett | Fair, I'm gonna back up that statement here. |
Andrew | To making watches, and I remember when the Stratotimer came out, I was like, this doesn't make any fucking sense, this is Jack Mason. Jack Mason doesn't make trash watches, they just make watch, like fossil watches. I'm not interested, they look good, but it's not for me. Stratotimer comes out, and the whole brand ideology and identity Pivots and I think they're trying to get it out from under the those early years still a little bit But they're reputational you mean? Yeah, but they're doing a really good job So this pursuit pilot 39 millimeter case 11 8 thick 46 lug to lug grade 2 titanium just for this 10-year anniversary edition What 150 meters of water resistance. Oh, here we go. A lazy puree G one Oh one movement, which is a movement that we're, we're, we're big fans of. |
Everett | It's an alternative to, it's an alternative to the SW 200 or 28 24 or, or whatever else. Right. |
Andrew | And they're putting it at the exact right price point. These are coming in in all titanium, $1,650. For the special edition titanium. |
Everett | Which is not limited in edition, limited in production time. So I think they're gonna make this for this year and basically sell it however many they sell. |
Andrew | Yes. And I'm here for it. The design on it's great. It's a really classically styled pilot's watch, but in a 39 millimeter package. The dial is really interesting, but it's really palatable. |
Everett | Notably, this is a re-release of one of their earliest watches, which is the Pursuit Pilot, which I don't know. I believe these were quartz watches in their last life. I don't know a lot about them, but I know they weren't this. I know they weren't this. |
Andrew | They weren't this. And for this 10 year anniversary edition, we have a Roman numeral at the 10. that is loom offset matte. So we have two loom colors on our markers. We've got really great blue on all of the markers, great green on the hour and minute hand, and the 10 o'clock Roman numeral at the 10 to celebrate the 10 year anniversary. |
Everett | Yeah, and so this is, I believe, Andrew, I believe, millimeter by millimeter, this is the same case as the Canton, which came out last year. The Canton, I think, more so perhaps than the Stratotimer, really had people Maybe scratching their heads unfairly, maybe. I don't know. It was a watch that came out just at a price point that I think surprised a lot of people. Like, all of a sudden, Jack Mason is hitting at that, like, really sort of the top end of Christopher Ward's production. |
Andrew | The north edge of affordable. |
Everett | I mean, getting into prices that we'd see from, you know, sort of that like next tier of brands, not quite Manta, but like getting close to that in terms of price. And I think the Canton has sold incredibly well, has been incredibly well received. and and so this takes that this takes that case and releases three steel versions as you said one titanium version the titanium the titanium limited edition anniversary uh version has a few tricks up its sleeve one it's titanium um two it's got block what do they call it they've got lumacast which are solid blocks of superluminova x2 um i know i i've talked to a few people in the industry who are connected with the owner we're not we should be who say this is just an incredibly expensive process, which is why you see the big difference between the steel versions of this or the regular versions of this and the limited edition. I think it's mostly in that LumaCast. probably i mean it's only a four or three hundred dollar difference and and there is luma cast on the regular catalog versions of this but with the with the the anniversary version they're at the numerals as well as those blocks around the outside this is just an incredibly cool sport watch with i mean it's just Is it fair to say this has everything going for it? |
Andrew | It does. The colorways are great. We have kind of foresty, sagey green, black and a clean like arctic, frosty white. This is not the Jack Mason that of 10 years ago. That's right. |
Everett | Yeah. And we do have hardness coding. We're at under 12, 20 millimeter lugs, so 39 by 20, 46 millimeter lug to lug. Fantastic movement, fantastic case and dial, this great, I mean, this is just 150 meters of water resistance. This is just tip to tail terrific. Everything about this is terrific. Yeah. Anti-magnetic shielding on the movement. |
Andrew | Just a baller. |
Everett | Which meets, I don't know what it is. A field watch. Whatever the ISO anti, 755 or something, I don't remember. |
Andrew | Just a terrific field watch. |
Everett | Like pilot field, yeah. Yeah, definitely a pilot watch, but yeah, feels to me, I think there's a point in which those two sort of muddy into one another. Yeah. |
Andrew | And I think it's at 40 millimeters. Yeah You go north you got a true pilot and it goes south and this is this is closer We don't have a 24-hour scale on here, which I think takes it out of traditional field. |
Everett | We do have that red white and blue Jack Mason Counterbalance that is notable on all of these but it's still really subtle a lacquered secondhand. |
Andrew | Yeah Just really good. Yeah. Uh, Jack Mason is I think maybe the small brand to watch. |
Everett | They're on my radar for sure. |
Andrew | Uh, for the, for the next couple of years because we've, we've seen a huge transition in not just what they're doing, but how they're doing. |
Everett | I remember talking when the Canton came Canton came out, I remember talking to will the watch clicker about this. And we, I think we're both sort of hard pressed to criticize the watch for its price, or, you know, based on what you were getting, we were hard pressed to like directly criticized, there seemed to be like more of a more of a concern for the brand, which is that like, that you really, you're really out over your skis here in terms like this could be dangerous, you know, by releasing a watch at this price, given your brand's historical reputation, and I don't think it's unfair to observe that, you're out over your skis. It's obviously, they're obviously seeing success there. So I think Will and I's early concerns may be largely unfounded. I think Jack Mason's here, and I really love this much. |
Andrew | They turned the corner and they were like, we're now here to party. |
Everett | We're here to party. Yeah. And I'm, I want to party with you. |
Andrew | They did a little bit of growing up. |
Everett | Can I drink with you, Jack Mason? |
Andrew | Yeah. Yeah. And that's, it's interesting. You don't see this kind of trend, like hard transition executed well. |
Everett | I mean, they're notable because they're notable because their success at making this, this big move into enthusiast sort of high-end entry-level luxury, high-end watchmaking. And I was even, when this watch was released, I first started, I had a couple of people sort of send me links to this watch and my gut reaction was critical. I was like, what, so fucking Jack Mason's a luxury watch brand now? Turns out they are, yeah. Yeah, maybe. Yeah, maybe. Like, I've had to sort of admit, like, I may be wrong here. This is terrific. Not only am I hard-pressed to criticize this watch, I'm, like, ready to celebrate this watch. This is cool. |
Andrew | Yeah, I don't have anything critical to say about it. It's all the right things, all the right ways. |
Everett | Mr. Mason, if you're, if you're listening, well done. This is terrific. Yeah. |
Andrew | So congratulations on your significant transition. |
Everett | We saved this for last. I think not in no small part because I personally was feeling like almost like I owed this brand an apology. Not that I've said anything nasty or negative, but I've just, Ben negative, personally been negative about Jack Mason and that's gone. It's done. It's done. |
Andrew | Well, because what they were doing five years ago just wasn't it. And then, and now it is. |
Everett | Now it is. Yeah. I remember even like when the strata time came out, it was a little like, Oh, Jack Mason released an actually cool watch. |
Andrew | We said that as we're handling this watch in person, we're like, well, this is interesting. Like what, what, what has changed? Like, is this a flash in the pan? Is this an accident? You know, even a blind squirrel finds a nut, right? |
Everett | You know, my friend Henry has told me a lot about Jack Nason. He's sort of a true believer. And he, one of the things he talks about, I'm sorry, I don't know enough about the brand to be able to talk about this at the way we should, but he said a lot about the designers that own the brand, those two guys that own the brand together, and how they're both really design motivated and focused. And so I think what we're seeing is actual design getting out there into a really well-made watch, which is hard. It's hard to do that. It's hard to, it's just hard, right? It's just hard. The watch industry is hard and Jack Mason has pivoted and like, found, they found a way to sell, they found a way to have brand strength, and now they found a way to make really, really good watches. And this isn't an entry-level watch, right? You're not going to send someone a $1,400 watch and be like, for your first watch, you should get this. And so I think that they swim in a sea with a lot of fishes, which is hard. It still remains hard, but they're doing it. They're doing a really good job. |
Andrew | Well, and we see a brand like this now doing a thing not dissimilar from Seiko of having this wide spectrum of price points that you can get an entry level kind of, I mean, not crummy, but just an entry level bleh. watch or this baller entry-level luxury all under the same brand name. |
Everett | Yeah, I mean, there's no part of me that is going to recommend a $1,200 C65 over this. I might put them in the same category. I'm not going to suggest that the Jack Mason is better because it's not but it it's priced the same and it's punching the same and maybe even you know i of course i haven't touched one of these guys sorry i haven't touched one of these but to me on paper at the very least it's punching at that level and and aesthetically it is doing all the things that i'd want it to be doing so yep All right, Andrew, other things, what do you got? |
Andrew | Ooh, I got another thing. I'm revisiting another thing. I felt like it was time. So, I don't know, some time ago, I talked about a Carhartt apron, because I was, bought an apron, because I do a lot of cooking, as we've discussed. I didn't go back to look and see when I talked about it. In the last year? Perhaps, or maybe just over that. Yeah. Give this a feel. So my initial concern with it was that it was a little bit too stiff and it wasn't going to break in nicely. Uh, we have, it's covered in stains and good hard use structurally, it has remained flawless. |
Everett | Let me just, let me just explain for people what I'm observing. So this is a Carhartt. It is, it is a firm duck apron. So this is like if you picked up a pair of Carhartt pants, picture Carhartt pants, not touch them. That's what I'm feeling. Pockets just like Carhartt pants, like sort of like fabric on fabric stacked rivets. |
Andrew | Yep. Carry on. So my revisit is that this is absolutely phenomenal. This is a $40 apron and aprons range in price, right? You get like some of these, some of these brands that do like, Oh, this is the apron that all the chefs wear, you know, they get, they get up to a hundred bucks or, or more even. and they come in all kinds of designs. This is a two strap across the back through a, that's not a rivet, that's a grommet. Grommet, that's the word I was looking for. Through a grommet, tie in the back, too many pockets. Right. |
Everett | I use, I use this could just as easily be like a woodworkers apron. |
Andrew | That's what it is. It's intended to be like, uh, you I've used this woodworking also like there's a utility. It's a utility. |
Everett | We, we live in a world where if this was made by a dude in Denver, It would be exactly the same as that, and it would cost $185. Yep, and people would buy the shit out of it. And if that product doesn't exist, I'd be surprised. |
Andrew | I'm sure it does, but it is terrific. This is... For anybody who has need of an apron, this is like the best $40. I think this is probably one of the best available on the market. I've put this through some paces. |
Everett | I don't remember touching it when you bought it, Andrew, but just for you at home, you can just tell. I'm sure that it felt exactly like what you're thinking of. Like when you get that new duck fabric. Crispy almost yeah, it's crunchy crunchy and just it doesn't fold the way you'd want it to and so it like kind of like if it sticks out in weird places, right that is You have you ever watched that? Nope. |
Andrew | Yeah, that feels phenomenal That feels phenomenal totally like just broken in with time when in use it's it's fantastic So if if you have a need of an apron, I'm revisiting this I recommended it when I got it And I recommend it even more after, I don't know, about a year of like really hard, good use. That's fantastic. That's it. That's my other thing. You can even see. in the breast pocket where I keep my phone, like a little bit of the break-in of the shape of my phone. You can see like a little bit of staining from the Sharpie being left open when I put it in the pocket. Like, it's just good. |
Everett | Yeah, you know, duck fabric, like really good duck fabric or even mediocre duck fabric is raw. Raw denim is a big thing. I always have a pair of Carhartts in rotation. In fact, I usually have two. And duck fabric, Carhartt duck fabric, I wear it like I do raw denim, which is to say I wash it minimally. I also change my underwear so that odor's not a concern, right? Because if you wash it once every six months, you'd be, well, it might stink. Well, eventually it does, but by and large, I'm wearing my duck fabric for six months and it fades with a Z fades, very similar to raw denim. And so I think you're seeing that with that, you're getting that phone carve out. It's really, it's delightful. It's a little less contrasty because of the color, the orange, that sort of burnt orange color, but it does a similar thing to raw denim where you get like whiskering and yeah. |
Andrew | Fantastic. |
Everett | It's really cool. |
Andrew | I don't think I'll ever wear that out. |
Everett | What do you mean? You wouldn't wear an apron out? |
Andrew | No, I don't think it'll ever wear out. |
Everett | Oh, I don't think I'll ever have to replace it. Oh, yeah. Yeah. Well, I mean, when it falls apart, it'll fall apart in a way that's going to make bucks. Wow. And when it falls apart, it's going to make it fall apart in a way that's probably delightful and still does 95% of the things you maybe 99% of the things you want an apron to do. |
Andrew | Yeah. |
Everett | You're just keeping flour off your belly. |
Andrew | Yeah, it will always do that or grease splashes off of my off of my unclad legs. Yeah, that's cool, man. |
Everett | I did that I've got another thing. I told you Andrew this wasn't gonna be my other thing. I changed my mind as we've been sitting here You said that you'd actually said that when I was like now and you're like, yeah, it is your other thing So I've been a little knife heavy recently and by that I mean in the last like, you know year I'm gonna talk about another knife today. I I So perhaps one of the most popular knives in the knife world is the Spyderco Para Military 2. There's something about this knife that is spoken to knife enthusiasts. If you're in this world, you know exactly what this knife is. I picked one of these up a while back, kind of on a whim. And what I did, I picked up the quote-unquote Crew Carta version of the Paramilitary II, which is the enthusiast name for the line of knives that Spyderco is fond of that they release with a CPM crew wear blade, which is not a stainless blade, but it's a fantastic steel for a number of reasons. It's a powder metallurgy crucible steel. and with micarta scales so it's different than a lot of what spyderco releases their lightweight stuff with their frn injection molded scales or a lot of stuff has g10 or carbon fiber g10 or whatever rather This is a Golden Colorado model from Spyderco that they released in this kind of interesting combo that has gained a bit of a cult following. Kru Karta is a cult combo for Spyderco. When I bought my PM2, I bought it in Kru Karta because I wanted a Kru Karta knife and I was like, well, I kind of want a PM2 as well. And Andrew, I have used it a lot, I love the ergonomics on it, I love the shape, I love the action, but there's something about the micarta scales that just never appealed to me. When you get Spyderco's micarta, it's a little dry and a little sort of starchy, and then you think, okay, well, as the oil's on my hand and I use this, it'll patina and it'll be really pleasant, and it just never got there for me. I just never loved it. It did patina. It did sort of look used and old. It got more comfortable. It wasn't like scratchy and dry where it felt like it was sort of pulling the moisture from my hands anymore. But I just never really fell in love with it. So I have this can of, I can't remember what it is, but it's a European oxblood wax polish. And I use it to hit the toes of my dress shoes when I polish my shoes. Once a month I take out, not all of my dress shoes, but I take the ones that need polish and I hit them. And I use this just on the toes. It gives them a little bit of color, it's transparent, it's really heavy pigment, so I've gotta be really, like I can't go crazy with it. And I was doing my shoes, and I had this out, and I was doing the shoes, and I was like, |
Unknown | Hmm. Hmm. |
Everett | It's hot. You're gonna have to post a picture of this, because you guys are gonna be like, what does this look like? I used this wax polish on this knife. It is an oxblood, so it's like sort of a transparent purple, red, Bordeaux color. And you know what I did? I took this thing apart, I took the scales, and I hit them with this stuff, kind of a heavy coat, and then I spent, watching a movie with my daughter, I spent about a half hour pulling the polish back off of these. I just took a, I took an old wife beater cause it's white and it's perfect. You know, got a little bit of texture and I spent about a half hour just pulling all of the polish back off of these. This thing looks like this is how it was meant to be. It looks like how it was sold. It looks like I've used it for the last two years. Uh, just not hard, but you know, used it constant. um it kind of gives this like sort of dusty red color that's evocative of like kind of like cinder block yes like red cinder that they dust central oregon with It's like if you took a maroon cotton sweatshirt and wore it, or perhaps like a Carhartt jacket, and wore it every day for three years, this is the color it would be. You can see the white poking out. You can see just a little bit of scratch damage. This, and here's the best part, Andrew. |
Andrew | And stains where your fingers are on the scales. |
Everett | Here's the best part of this. It made it feel soft but also water repellent because it's a wax polish, right? It made it feel soft and water repellent in a way that just changed the knife from being slightly uncomfortable to Almost perfect. I I mean this has become like in the last week my favorite knife to just hold because it's still a pm2 with the almost perfect action of the pm2 and Just it looks great. It feels great. I actually have a waxed canvas jacket Like a tin cloth jacket that's almost identical to that color too. |
Andrew | It feels almost like uh like hardwood, that's just been polished by use over time. |
Everett | Yeah, that is what it feels like. And you know, the PM2, fantastic, fantastic action, really kind of fun shape. They're ugly, right? That's what everybody- Spyderco's all ugly. They're ugly, but you know, you put that in your hand, you can choke right up. It's just become my favorite knife. Like in the last week, I'm like, is this is this peak knife the thumb yeah the the ramp on the thumb everything on this knife is just great and now i love it i never liked the scales andrew and all of a sudden i'm like oh yeah i love these scales now and it's my favorite and it's a custom you know maybe you you'll start a business doing uh custom uh Anyway, that's my other thing. I've never talked about this watch on the show or this knife on the show I don't think and now I have I love it and I'm just gonna link to the p.m. To crew where yeah, that's the one my card That's what you can you can get any kind of shoe coat shoe polish you want but a wax a soft heavy pigment wax polish Is the truth. |
Andrew | Yeah. |
Everett | Yeah, so knife-cutting Andrew what also what else do we need to talk about today? |
Andrew | We need to not because I need to go fire up my smoker and get wings and queso on hey go chiefs |
Everett | Go, go Pat. Hey, thanks folks for joining us for this episode of 40 and 20 of the Watch Clicker podcast. Do us a favor, go to the website or you can go to Instagram at 40 and 20 underscore watch clicker at watch clicker. Watch clicker.com is the website. I've screwed this all up. I don't know what's happening. If you want to support us on Patreon and look, this is the only part of the outro you need to listen to. Patreon.com slash 40 and 20. Drop a buck guys. We need money to keep going. And so we're happy for those of you to support us. And if you don't, maybe consider. And don't forget to tune back in next Tuesday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. |
Andrew | Bye-bye. |