Abishorn Remaking the Best Watches Never Made (316)

Published on Wed, 13 Nov 2024 21:48:57 -0800

Synopsis

In this episode of The Watch Clicker podcast, hosts Andrew and Everett discuss several new and interesting watch releases from smaller brands. They begin by discussing the Beaucroft Element, a simple yet sophisticated sport watch with impressive specs and an attractive price point. They also cover the Bristol Clubmaster watches with their unique acetate cases, the Precedence Type H75 chronograph, and the Tatema Mara Safari Chronograph with its distinctive hidden pushers. The hosts also discuss new releases from Squala and a Swedish brand called Tuseño.

The conversation then shifts to non-watch topics, including an upcoming Mike Tyson vs. Jake Paul fight on Netflix and their thoughts on performance enhancement in sports. The episode concludes with Andrew recommending the movie "Wolves" starring Brad Pitt and George Clooney, and Everett sharing his newfound obsession with vintage Eddie Bauer clothing, particularly their "black label" pieces from the 1970s and 1980s that were made in the USA with high-quality materials.

Transcript

Speaker
Everett Hello, fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 in 20 The Watch Clicker podcast with your host Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here, we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Everett, how are you? So, so good, Andrew. Zero things in my life to complain about. work's busy, kids are busy, the usual. You know, Andrew, if I were to like stop and complain, I would say, I've got a custody hearing for my nephew tomorrow. Ooh, that's, I am in the process of applying for credit because my parents' house got burned down by my sister. Super fun. Uh, I would say it's, I'm sorry, that's not funny. But the, the, uh, collision of, that we've talked about. I would say I had a podcast to prepare for tonight and a presentation to prepare for Friday. I've got a trial on Tuesday and I'm feeling a little stressed out, but I don't, I don't feel like complaining about those things. But do you know what, do you know what you can look forward to? What? Mike Tyson and Jake Paul are fighting this Friday. It's happening on Netflix and we just get to watch it. We do just, we just get to watch it. And I've been excited for this fight since it was announced. I've been following very closely Mike Tyson's training and like as he posts on social media, right? Like Mike looks Mean yeah, Mike Tyson. I mean Mike Tyson always looks me. He he looks Not like you would expect a 60 year old man to look like he looks Just a hair shy of the way he did in the 90s. Like he just looks fucking mean and he's Looking like healthy. He's not right. He's 58 years old. Yeah, but he's looking Good. You know, I was thinking about this. I was thinking about this actually this week. If you want to come watch on Friday, you're welcome. Yeah. Let's, let's talk about that. I was thinking about that actually this week because like looking at Logan Paul, uh, and looking Jake Paul, Oh, this is not good. Looking at Jake Paul and looking at Mike Tyson. I mean, here are two guys clearly just using gear. working their asses off, but gearing up. I don't think Jake Paul's geared. Stop. Stop right now. I know Mike Tyson is. Stop it. For sure. I don't think. Andrew, you sound stupid. You just, you sound stupid. He's 25 years old. That's how a 25 year old should look. All right. Plausible deniability. Uh, but. You at home, I'm talking to you, we all know. And I was thinking, and then it's got me thinking about like Jose Canseco and Barry Bonds and Nolan Ryan, sorry haters, Nolan Ryan. And I was like, you know, as fun as asterisks are and you know, oh, Barry Bonds and this and that, like, I imagine, you know, look at, look at Mark McGuire, Sammy. So, so right. Look at Lance Armstrong. I mean, think about it. Dude lost his nuts, man. Think about a world in which we were like, fuck it guys go crazy. Go crazy, become superhuman, because I wanna see 80, 85 home runs. Give me 90, let's do 100. You know what, let's do 162. Let's do 162, you play 182 games, you should hit 162 home runs. Shohei, I want you to just go nuts. Let's see what you can do. The Otani fever is crazy right now. you know, that guy, I suspect he's going to pitch again this year. I suspect long-term he ought to be considering a closer role. Like, you know, you look at a guy like Eckersley or whatever, Mariano Rivera, like, you know, if you're pitching, if you're pitching a hundred or 120 innings per year, you can do that indefinitely. And, you know, with his speed and his power, if he sort of changed his strategy a little bit, you know, anyway, yeah, I'm a Shohei guy. I think he's terrific. Everyone's a Shohei guy. Everyone. You know, Blake, I know you're listening. Blake believes for sure that Shohei is geared up and maybe it's true. I don't know. I mean, but I mean, maybe that's my point. Like testing regimens are so strict and that's what that brings me back to Tyson Paul. This is a professionally sanctioned fight. They're getting tested and maybe they geared up like during training. I just, I don't know. I'm super excited for this fight cause I'm, I am also a Jake Paul hater. I also kind of like, I secretly like him. You know, I don't know enough about him to hate him, right? I know that that's the thing, right? Jake Paul, this is Jake Paul, that. I don't know enough about him to actually hate him. He seems kind of douchey to me, but. He is kind of douchey, but he's the biggest thing that has happened to professional boxing since Mike Tyson, right? The Tyson-Hollyfield bite. is the last notable headline in boxing. Oh man, we are gonna get angry DMs. No, I love boxing, but in the way of popular culture, in the way of the zeitgeist, the last thing that your mom knows about boxing prior to this fight is Mike Tyson biting a dude's ear off. Yeah, I mean, yeah, that might be fair. I I think I think that There's something to be said for this is the most excited people have been about boxing and what 30 years Yeah, sir in in 30 years because boxing has been a dying sport. We had the rise of MMA right and and people got super excited about UFC and Boxing has been limping along and look we're talking Talking in platitudes, please don't be mad at us. Boxing hasn't suffered in the way of talent or in the way of excitement. It's still cool and a beautiful sport, but Andrew's right. It's just suffered in the way of viewership. Don't be mad at us. And in the way of popular culture excitement. Or be mad, but don't be mad at us. No, be mad at us, fine. The last exciting boxing match that I've watched was Miguel Cotto and Antonio Margarito in like, 2006? I don't know either of those people. And that was the fight that Margarito got penalized for having weighted his gloves. I love Margaritos. And it was the downfall of Miguel Cotto who had the most punishing body punch that's ever existed. This dude's a southpaw fighter and had knockouts from body punches. He'd lay it in the liver and dudes would go down and not get back up. I know it's not boxing, but do you remember Dan Severin in the UFC? Good Lord, that guy. Right? I mean, and that's what usurped boxing as combat sports. And Jake Paul coming back into, or you know, coming into the sphere has got people excited about boxing again. And I think it's really good for the sport. He's a pretty technically okay fighter. I'm interested to see him fight boxers because he hasn't really yeah. Well, he fought what's-his-face He fought Mayweather and Mayweather said he was pretty good. Yeah Yeah, right. I'm like I'm getting that right. No He fought Dale Hoya I think it was Floyd Mayweather. Did he fight Floyd? He fought Floyd Mayweather and Floyd Mayweather said, yeah, he's actually pretty decent. I thought he fought. Anyway, I don't think he's an elite boxer. I don't think he could survive as the top dog in any boxing gym in the United States, but I think that's not the point. Oh yeah, it was a... Like an exhibition. An exhibition. This is a professional fight. I don't think, I don't think that's the point, right? I don't think the point is that he's the best boxer. I think the point is that he's making it interesting and he's captured the imagination of some people and people are going to, people are going to tune in to Netflix, to the Netflix account that they already have and pay way too much for now, uh, on Friday and watch this fight. Yeah. And, um, and we're going to watch Mike Tyson, 60 year old Mike Tyson. We've seen Jake Paul fight all these other fighters who are like, Oh, Tyson can win. I, I think that Mike Tyson is an interesting choice because all of his other fights have these, have been these exhibition fights against people either well out of their sport or well out of their like training regimen. But Mike Tyson just sees red, right? Like, okay, go fight Floyd, go fight, you know, who was the MMA guy he fought? It doesn't matter. People who can be composed, Mike Tyson, in the ring, has no composure. Like, you pop Mike once, And all of his thoughts of like payday and like stay in control, those are gone. And the beast comes out. And I think Mike Tyson can win. And I think Mike Tyson can win because he's stronger, he's smarter, but I think that if Paul can carry him the distance, I think Jake will win on the cards. I think Jake just needs to carry him like three rounds. How many rounds is the fight set for? I don't know, but if Jake can stay alive for three rounds, Mike Tyson's going to be gassed. There's no way. If he can take it the distance, Jake Paul will win on the cards. You know, this has probably been 15 or 20 years ago now, but I read about this gym. I want to say it was in Tallahassee or something like that. And they were a gym that was putting up like elite card boxers who had never boxed before. So they were bringing in these guys and they were, you know. Is that the one that carded Timmy Gunn or Tommy Gunn? I don't know. I don't know. You know, they were going 18 months taking a guy who's never boxed before to putting them on an actual professional card and competing. And their whole thing was they were going and getting NCAA D1 football players who were not going to make the draft and bringing them in and paying them. And because, and the philosophy was these guys are the only guys on earth with the stamina to even, to even, after 18 months be able to do it. So we get these guys that are in this condition that given six or 12 months, we can get them through. We can get them up to the condition necessary. We can get them through a few rounds because you know, that's the biggest thing, right? These guys will do a three round fight and they're fucking gas. Combat sports is exhausting. The amount of stamina you need is like no other sport on earth. Mm-hmm. So I'm super excited for this fight. Yeah, I think it's gonna be fun I think I gotta think Jake Paul will outlast Tyson unless Tyson King I think if Tyson early if Tyson gets a couple on him if he can get in close and break that defense I Fuck it. I think he could kill him. There's no doubt about it. The Tyson's a better fighter There's no doubt about it. Tyson's stronger even at 60 years old. Have you watched any of his training videos? No way he moves even now is like Well, he's always been that guy, right? And you said something, he's smarter too. He was a really, really technical fighter. And I don't think everybody knows that, but he was a really technical fighter. And the way he would employ uppercuts and body shots through the fight was how... And so there's no way Jake Paul can compete with that level of understanding of the support. No, because Mike Tyson has... 15 years of the best training, but 20 in the game. Or how old is Jake Paul? He's under 30. Maybe he's 30. Guy who's 20, guy who's almost 60. I mean, you just can't. I wouldn't fight Mike. Well, no, me either. And I wouldn't survive for 10 seconds, right? I mean, literally, I could not survive for 10 seconds. But I'd fight Jake Paul. I wouldn't do well, but if you were like, hey, you get to fight one of these two guys, I'm like, give me the little one. If we went down to the YMCA boxing club and picked out the scrawniest 17 year old, you would not survive 30 seconds. No, it'd hurt. I'd survive 30 seconds, but it would hurt. 45 at the most. I'd make it through a round and I'd be like, all right, we're done. And that's no, that's no beef on you. You're trained in combat sports, right? Uh, me, not so much, but I just, like, I'm not a fighters, but these guys like this, some, you know, you learn how to fight and you can fight. Uh, and I think Jake Paul is like. That plus a little bit more. And he's training with, he's got so much money. He's training with the best trainers that he can get, the money can buy. He's obviously incredibly fit and he's obviously using the best drugs and that's it. I've been watching the Netflix lead-up documentary that's doing like how we got here. It's really good. I'm gonna watch the newest episode tonight after we're done recording. And Liver King was natty too. He wasn't. No, he admitted it. We're not here to talk about boxing. That's the weirdest fucking guy. Oh, dude. We could do a whole episode on just how weird that guy is. Does he wear a watch? We're not here to talk about boxing. nor are we here to talk about the liver king, although future episode, you guys tell us if he wears a watch. What we are here to talk about is watches. And again, this is, I think more so than most of the time we say this, there's no chance. What do we have between the two of us? 16 watches. And this was an interesting week for small brands. Yeah. Yeah. Yes. We had a lot of exciting stuff and new stuff coming from small brands, and I'm going to start with a brand we have never talked about, and I'm kind of surprised we haven't. How many brands do you have on here that we've never talked about? I want to say that there are at least five brands that we've never talked about. At least. At least. If we get to them. Yeah. Yeah. We might not get to all of them. The first brand that I want to talk about, and I'm surprised we've never talked about this brand, is Beaucroft. It sounds like a bloodhound. It does. Beaucroft! Yeah. That's actually the name of Old Red's hound from the Blake Shelton song Old Red. Is it really? It's Beaucroft. No, really? Okay. So the brand Beaucroft has a new release and the reason I'm surprised we've never talked about them is that this is their fourth release in several years. It is a British watchmaking brand and They're doing it right. I saw this picture and I was like, Ooh, I like this watch. I didn't. That was why I clicked on this article. Not because of the title, because I was like, Ooh, I like this watch. So the Bowcroft element, we're going to go with specs first. This is a, Oh, come here. It's the element 39.5 so it's a 35 point or 30 39.5 39 millimeter case 46 and a half lug to lug 11 six thick with a domed a double domed sapphire crystal Miyota 9039 movement 200 meters of water resistance. just specs alone. I'm like, Okay, okay, we got something. Yeah, yeah, yeah. This. This is not meant to detract from their own unique design. But I saw this and I was like, Oh, Traska. Super simple, super clean. sport watch, and that's the feel it has for me. And honestly, even the logo is kind of Traska-esque. Yeah, I can see that. That's what this is. It doesn't have the hardened steel, but this is a super, fucking squeaky chair. I'm not even moving. Super attractive sport watch. with markers in lieu of numerals. It's no date. It comes in four colors. We've got a, the black is really striking cause it has kind of a teal green secondhand. Um, we've got a mint green dial, a Jade green dial, a deep blue and orange. Uh, I like that. I like the black dial with the minty green second hand. Yeah, it's super good. All these colors, even the like kind of like, so we've got black, blue, dark green, mint green, light blue and orange. Even the, the last three colors I'm pretty okay with because the design of the watch itself is so simple, right? It's that very subtle, sophisticated kind of simple elegance in this design. And these are fantastic. And if you go into the into the Beaucroft catalog, all their designs are like this. They're just very attractive, very simple, well-designed, affordable watches. So these are on pre-order until November 24th. They're going to ship in March. On the website, they are 550 bucks? Yeah, they're super cheap. This is like... On a strap, I think. I think they're more than that. I think 550 on a bracelet. Is that right? Yeah. You know... Russell Sheldrake and Steven Nichols did a hands-on with this watch from Time and Tide. And the picture that really caught my eye, there's a picture of the watch in profile. And the profile on this is really interesting. But they've done the thing where they take the bracelet and they sort of stack it underneath the watch. Oh yeah, fully articulating bracelet. And this thing, this bracelet looks to me like it, like a really next level bracelet between the chamfering. You know, this photo is really good. Stephen Nichols took the photo on these, photos on these, and it's a really high detail photo. You can actually tell that the finishing on the inside of the links, because this photo is so good, is a little unrefined. With that said, you can tell the way it stacks and the way it lays against itself. It is a female end link. I think that this is probably a, at that price point, at 600 bucks or whatever this thing is. So 549 pre-order, 675 is the retail price on this. I gotta imagine that's one of the best bracelets. Just looking at a picture, a single picture, The yeah the fully I have to imagine that's one of the best bracelets you can get at this price point I've never touched it. Don't take my word for it But it looks like it's terrific and the case profile on this thing is not the case profiles it's got like it's it's almost like like a gets wider towards the link. It's got like an intermediate projection on the upper part of the mid case. Yeah. And then there's like a case holder with it, like inside of that, creating like a little bit more slenderness. I'm excited for this and I'm excited for this not just for the fact that it's a cool watch coming in in the affordable category It's a cool watch in British watchmaking. Yeah, and It's a 200 meter sport watch. I mean, it's really ticking a lot of boxes for me I love the American watchmaking industry but I'm also really excited to see the British watchmaking industry and coming back and growing. Yeah. Yeah. This looks like a great watch. Yeah. This, I have exactly no critiques. Do, do we, do we try to, do we just roll with this? Bristol. Oh, we're going British. No. Bristol is an independent French brand. Pass. Created in 2012. And it was founded by a fellow named Bryce Jeannet, I'm going to say Jeannet, who worked with Cartier, Bauman Mercier, Raymond Wiles, Zenith. Zenith, like the television. Zenith. And he started a brand a few years ago and there were They're doing some weird things. In fact, I will say, for the purpose of this conversation, they're doing a weird thing, which is they are using acetate in their cases. Acid what? Acetate. Oh. So they are using plastic, so artificial tortoiseshell acetate, same thing with glasses, like eyeglasses are made out of. as a watch case material, which we, what? I was reading about this and I was like, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait. I think they did it right though. Wait, wait, wait, wait, wait. So they've done this for a while. This is one of their things. They've released two watches, the Clubmaster Legend Diver and the Clubmaster Legend Small Seconds. These are like square tonneau case things with sort of, I don't know. They look super Soviet. These things are so fucking weird, but also really cool. Let's see. Okay, so on the Clubmaster Legend Small Seconds, we've got a 39 millimeter Square ish so it's gonna wear like a 42 TV case. It's gonna wear a little big Cushion case 12 hour bi-directional bezel So you can whatever track a second times on if you want small seconds sort of railroad ish dial with really pleasant Arabic numerals on the small seconds. These come in. So here's the deal. The case. So there's actually the movement holder portion of the case, which is which is a circle around. But then on top of that, there is the cushioned case where they've over the top of stainless steel, put a molded acetate, tortoiseshell acetate sort of overlay. You can see the structure of the watch underneath it because acetate is semi-translucent. And then transparent polished this thing. It's beautiful. I don't think that acetate is the most durable material, right? I've got a number of pair of acetate glasses and over time they get Mankey, you can polish it, but they just sort of like, they get scummy, scummy and scratchy. And so I don't know how well this thing holds up, but it's a novelty and it's interesting. These, so these things come, so that's the Clubmaster Small Second. It has a 50 meter water resistant case, Miyota 8-2 movement, which is Miyota's like sort of entry level automatic movement. The Bristol Clubmaster Legend Diver is more of a dive watch, unsurprisingly. Slightly bigger case, 40 millimeters. Definitely a thicker case, but you do get 200 meters of water resistance. And it's just, it's a diver, right? You can just tell. 83.15 on this, which is a slightly upgraded 82.15. 60 hours of power reserve. This is 850 euro or 950. So, and then 40 by 13.4. So big difference here, or something to note, you can get both of these in sort of a regular steel version. So instead of the acetate overlay, you can just get steel. And they're very good looking. They're slightly more expensive. I want to say they're like a hundred bucks more per model than the acetate. But the acetate's cool. The acetate is- That's what makes this watch interesting. It feels like sitting, like when you look at this watch, you feel yourself sitting down on a floral pattern couch covered in plastic. looking down at a Formica coffee table with crystal ashtrays on it. Yeah, that's right. That's right. This is smoke inside 70s nostalgia. It smells like cigarettes and aftershave. Yes. And it's cool. Yeah, it's cool. Like we're glad we don't live in those times anymore, but we also kind of miss them. Yeah, that's right. This is beautiful watches. We never talked about them on the show. I was like, man, these things are fucking interesting. They're interesting. It's an acetate watch is interesting. Yeah, that's a really novel material to use, because I can't think of a single other acetate case to watch. And you know what? I'm not a hater, but the Miyota 8000 series kind of sucks. I think at these prices, they could have gotten away with a 9 series. But if they move to a 9 series, it's not going to be this price. The difference in price between an 8-series and a 9-series is $30. But the price is in the acetate molding. This is a novel... How does using a better Miyota movement change that? It's a novel manufacturing material. Make your novel manufacturing material around a slightly nicer movement. I see your point, but I also like, they're losing money on the acetate case. I doubt it. I don't think so. In fact, their acetate cases are cheaper than their steel case. I bet that this is a pretty straightforward manufacturing process. I think the R&D that went into it is probably expensive. You can machine acetate at your house, Andrew, with a file. Are they doing it though? No, I don't know. It's a French brand. Who fucking knows? That's not the point. I don't think the acetate is. Then they're definitely not if it's the French. Acetate is not a difficult material to work with is the point for those of you who are French. I will continue to make fun of you forever. And my point is put a 9000 series movement on it. It will make your costs $30 more, which means the watch is maybe $100 more to get your margins or not. and just call it a day. Have you ever seen any of the, um, like French military surplus rifles for sale? Never fired, dropped once. That's funny. That's funny. Yeah. Yeah. Uh, well, so my next, I did have to take possession of a bunch of, I think that they were, I think that they were, um, some, it was an Eastern Bloc company or country. A bunch of like Yugos? I think that they were Yugoslavian maybe, or maybe Latvian. There were a bunch of guns that had been shipped over from probably the 40s or 50s, and they were packed in... Cosmoline. Yes, they were packed in oil, some sort of like grease. Cosmoline, from experience. I think that there were, I don't know, there were between six and 12 of them, I can't remember how many it was. And I just got this crate delivered to my office. And it's just a crate. It was just a crate. And I was like, okay. So I called the guy and I was like, hey, D, I got all your package here. And he's like, he comes in and he's like, help me take this out to the truck. So I grabbed half of this fucking heavy ass case. It's probably like a hundred pounds maybe with the wood and everything. this thing yeah maybe more than that anyway we're like holding this thing i'm gonna like a fucking suit we get it out to the back of his truck and he's like you want to see i knew what it was and i was like yeah sure and so he pops open this crate he's got like a hammer he pops open this crate and he pulls one of these out. It's in like a, it's in like a plastic roll, you know, undoes this flap and pulls it. And I'm just like, I don't want to get anywhere near that. It's like removing a condom. Just packed in grease. You know, meanwhile I'm wearing a suit. I'm like, yeah, I'm good. I have a 1940s Yugoslavian 8mm Mauser that was packed like that when I bought it from Big 5 for like $79. And you have to bake it to melt the grease out of the components. So you throw that fucking bitch in the oven with a tray underneath it. How'd you get in the oven? These things were big. You break it down. You break it down. Yeah, you break it down into pieces, uh, put it in the oven, bake all the grease out of it. It just melts out. Yeah. That's funny. Yeah. It's still, it still has like, if I were to pull it out safe right now, it still has like a greasy residue. A tinge. Yeah. It's like where it's like, well, this is wood stock. Yeah. Full wood stock. It's just still a little like, it just soaks it up. It's still a little greasy. And this is, I'm shit. I bought it 20 years ago. Uh, it's still a little bit of grease in the pores. Are you not entertained? Yeah. Are you not entertained? Andrew? I love that. calling a timeout to fucking gloat in the big house. Uh, so next up for me, uh, I, I, I saw this watch and was kind of initially underwhelmed, then read a little bit about it and got kind of excited. And then you got more whelmed. I got fully whelmed. So this is the precedence type H seven five chronograph watch and proceed. This is known for doing, um, 1940s. Yeah. Military. World War II reenactments. Yeah, World War II style watches. Cosplay watches. If that's the word you want to choose. Sorry. We're just offending everybody. You're like, you're on one. You're the one who said boxing sucks. Did I? Uh, OK, so this is a kind of boring. Mecca courts. Pilots chronograph. Right, the dial design blush that was your reaction. No, I'm sticking with my decision-making here. It's a kind of boring pilot's chronograph. It's very World War II. The case on this is 45 and a half, so I'm like, eh, it's a big old bitch. It's a mecca court's chronograph. Eh, kind of whatever. I'm not super jacked on it. The design I'm good with, but I'm also kind of like, eh, whatever. What's the thickness on this? This write-up doesn't have a thickness. Well, it's microcord, so it's gonna be. So it's gonna be 15 probably. 11.5, okay, so we're there. A little bit of fotina on the loom, on the hands, leather strap. I'm just kind of like, eh, ho-hummy about it. Here's where I got it. Here's where it reeled me back in. 245 bucks. This, mm, totally acceptably designed, attractive, boring, 45 and a half millimeter, World War II design motif, Mecca Quartz chronograph at 245 bucks, on a leather strap. Holy fucking shit. This is a banger. That's a huge win. When I'm looking at this watch, I don't know, Procetus. I know kind of like this, this ilk of watches. I'm thinking five to 700 bucks, even, even with Mecca courts. Right. Cause that's just sort of what people do, but not Procetus and they nailed it. Right. We have a buy compacts or yeah, buy compacts three and nine. We have all the kind of World War II feels. It's a little big, but it's MechaQuartz, so I accept. And MechaQuartz gives you this kind of cool feel of a smooth, sweeping secondhand and a flyback and some things that Mechanicals give you that Quartz doesn't exactly. At sub $300? Banger! So, we've got a blog to watch post-open that we're referring to, and this is written by Sean Lorenzen, but I had to go check because I thought, I'm reading through this thing as you're talking, and I was like, oh gosh, this is, Mike Razack must have written this, because listen to this shade. I'm wholly unwilling, I don't care if Mike is the only person who writes about it, I'll never quote that fucker on this show again. You can write for the New York Times, but you can't be quoted by us. Listen to this shade. On the other hand, the handset here is bound to be divisive. While the straight sword handset and oversized arrow tip central chronograph hands design are both carried over faithfully from the original CP1, Presidia's choice of finishing is unorthodox to say the least, setting aside the usual enthusiast debate around warm fotino lube. I happen to love khaki colored loom, blah, blah, blah. The luminate for this hands is saturated near mustard yellow. This is a color that virtually never appears in naturally aging tritium or radium loom. And what's more, the near white loom used on the hour numerals clashes with this deep yellow tone starkly on the wrist. That's shade. That's also the way Mike would describe it. I know, that's why I was like, oh, did Mike write this? I like this. I like the yellow loom. We love Mike, by the way. We, we, Everett loves Mike. I have some complicated feelings. I was talking with a Brown donor this last week and Mike came up and he's like, oh yeah, Mike's, I love that guy. You know, I followed him from publication to publication. I followed him from Watch Clicker to Tempest-Fuja to now Blog to Watch. And I say, yeah. Now New York Times. I talk with Mike, you know, we text message. every single day, dozens of times. Which is funny, you know, it's funny, this world, we've talked about this before. Like more often than not, not about watches. I text with you guys, with our group, with Mike and you and Will, more than I text with anybody else. Probably more than I've texted with anybody else my whole life. Yeah, except I concur. Not with an E, with an A. No, this is cool, and I agree. Andrew, I agree with the point you made on this exactly. This is a boring, but really decent looking watch. It's a super good entry watch. For 245 bucks, I'm with you. Yeah, this is a slam dunk of an entry level watch. Yeah, at that price point it is, or at that price. You know that's a pet peeve for some people, that price point. People don't like that. Make more money. I don't give a shit. Now we have talked about Proceedus, so you fucked it up, but Albashorn. Al Bishorn. Al Bishorn? Al Bishorn. I don't really know how to go about that. You know, Andrew, I don't think we talked about Al Bishorn when they came out about a year ago. We didn't. But we had him on a list at some point. I know that we exchanged links to an Al Bishorn, but I think like some watches today, it did not make the final show. And maybe for no good reason. So last... because their original offering was just kind of like, eh. I don't know about that. It just didn't do it. It didn't do it relative to the other things. And I close the links every week, so. It didn't make the show, and it doesn't matter, but the concept for this watch is insane. So last year, Albashore teamed up with Messina Lab for its debut watch. Okay, you already know, We've talked about plenty of Messina Lab watches. Sure, but Albus Shoren released its debut as a collab with Messina Lab, all right? So you know that there's some connection here. Like, this is a watch made by someone who either is really well-connected or has some chops. Probably well-connected and has some chops. We'll get to the answer there. But I'll just say this Al Bichon watch that came out last year, they called this the Maxi Graph. idea for this thing is unique. So we'll talk about the watch in a second, but now I'm just gonna talk about the concept. So the concept for the Albushorn Maxi Graph was a fictional watch from the history. So, from history. So they're creating a plausible watch that very well could have existed in the past and then reissuing that watch that didn't exist. Straight out of Lost. It's fantastic. It's just such a, like when you think about that concept, like what a brilliant and freeing concept. It's not retro-inspired, it's retro-designed. retro-designed but with a concept. So for the MaxiGraph, they based this on a piece that may have been commissioned by a racer in the legendary regatta race, the Le Boldor, which was held in Lake Geneva starting in 1939. This is a recreation of an imagined watch, imagined Regatta chronograph from the 30s. And we're not here to talk about the Maxograph. It's a cool watch. It's got this very cylindrical case. It looks like a reissue of that watch though. That's the idea. It's bizarre. That's the idea. Okay. So for their second release, I think they've hit They've hit it out of the park. Much like their first watch, what we've got here is a chronograph with a single pusher and a 1030 crown. Weird. That's weird, but I'm okay with it. That's a solid 10 o'clock crown. 1030 crown. It's not. I'm looking. That's a 10 o'clock crown. Oh, 10 o'clock on the MaxiGraph, 1030 on the Type 10 Classic. Oh, are we talking about two different watches? We're talking, so the Type 10 Classic is their new watch introduced in November of 2024. The Type 10 is, unsurprisingly, a predecessor to the Type 20 Chronograph. Which, spoiler alert, did not exist. This is such a fun exercise, and if you tell the right story, people will buy into it. That's fresh. Because without a story, this is kind of a weird watch. But with the story, I'm good. Yes. I'm on board. Yes, yes, yes. So, uh, uh, yes. So this watch, it's weird. I'm not going to try to describe the watch. It is, it looks super Soviet, right? Like super utilitarian. Like we have this watch, we'll do all the things for you. Kind of design on the dial.
Andrew Hmm.
Everett Like kind of Raketa-esque. is what I feel off of this, which is kind of like the 1920s, 1930s, this is a tool and not an accessory feel. Yeah, no, I can see that. I can see that. Well, and right, it's an imaginary predecessor to a very famous military watch. That didn't exist. That didn't exist, right? So the Type 20 watches created for the French Ministry of Defense in the 50s, it's a real thing. And this is a predecessor to that watch and how it would have worked. So what they do is they sort of take vestigial elements from sort of like, 1930s, 1940s military timepieces and put it into a watch where they've given themselves a bunch of freedom to create a watch that they want. There's a weird thing going on here, right? So the 1030 crown position and the 930 pusher position, single pusher to operate, and this is a weird position, right? But the single pusher to operate the chronograph is weird. I think it's super intuitive though for wearing a watch on your right wrist. Very, very comfortable positioning for both of these. For both the crown manipulation, yeah. And it, and it leads us, it leads us to something else, which is probably the coolest thing. So this is a proprietary, this is a proprietary caliber called the ALB02. And that is in part because Almshorn has a in-house chronograph expert. And what they've done is they've taken, I believe it's a 7750 architecture. And frankly, if you look at this thing, if you look at this thing, you can tell that if you turned the crown, the crown that's at 1030, if you turn that, to 3 o'clock, essentially what you've got is a 9-12 layout. But instead of the layout being at 9-12, you've got layout at 4-30, 7-30, which is a really, really interesting chronograph layout. Spectacularly interesting, I would say. It kind of reminds me in the way of like interesting releases. I wish I could remember his name off the top of my head. It's just whatever. The guy to Portland who was using new old stock 7750s and new old stock cases. We met him. He did a purple watch. I wish I could remember. Rich? From, what's the name of his brand? Who did the, like, Ozark watch. Was it Ozark? Yeah, yes. He did a zombie. Yes, he purchased, yes. So his name is Rich, and the name of his business is... Yeah, I'm blanking on it too. Ozark watch. I'll get to it. Let's continue to talk about this. Let's continue to talk about this watch. Yeah, so owner of Alba Shoren's name is Sebastian Chamontay. And he has got a terrific background working on chronographs. And this is what he says, long before I joined manufacturer La Joux Perret as head of innovation and later worked at Salida and manufacture. I was already developing modules and complications for the Vaujoux 7750. For example, during that time, I co-developed the COS crown operating system chronograph with Richard Habering, for which we held a joint patent. I always knew that if I ever created a chronograph of my own, I would use the 7750 as a base, but with several key improvements. The height would need to be significantly reduced, or the layout would have to be original. The chronograph's operation would need to be smoother. Lastly, it would add some patented complications. All of these considerations have been addressed in the Type 10. So this is a 4,000 Swiss franc watch, which I think makes it like a 5,000. They're supposedly unlimited, but I think they only have 25 of them up for sale. With the assumption that they're not gonna sell out, I guess? I don't know, what? I don't know. Dimensions, this is great. 41.7 millimeters, so that's with the bezel. 39 millimeters without, so the overhanging bezel. 47 millimeter lug-to-lug. 12 millimeters with the crystal, 11 without. This is a 7750 custom movement. at 11 and a half at 11 and a half millimeters. Andrew, that's crazy. A hundred meters of water resistance. This thing's nuts, dude. Can we talk about the loom too? So the loom on the 12-6 is on the outside of the interior track. So there's your minute track on the outside of the dial with another track on the inside. Your 12-6 is on the inside of that. Or on the outside of that, excuse me. And then your six to nine is on the inside, off color, minute hand, like just a really good loom pattern that's super attractive. And when you look at it, when it's loomed up, you're just like, I like you. Would you guys go look at these watches? Yeah. Would you go look at this watch? So I'm reading a comment. So we're on Fratello. We always have pull up articles because we don't have original thoughts. We don't. But I'm reading a comment. It's about 10K euro less than I thought it was gonna be, which is another reason to like it. Yeah, you could see this being released as a $10,000 watch. It's a vintage watch. that never existed from the mind of a genius. Yes. That's been made almost impossibly in terms of dimensions. Yeah. And water resistance. Let's get this guy working with other brands. That is being sold for about five grand. Like what the fuck? This thing's super fucking cool. Go look at this thing. Just go, just, would you look at that? Yeah, just take a look. Just enjoy the pictures. This thing is impossibly cool. I'm kind of blown away. There's always interesting watches, right? We're not done talking about interesting watches. This week was just interesting small brand watches. This thing is bizarre and awesomely bizarre. Yeah, it's weird and I like it why it's weird. I don't really understand it and I want it. Yeah. And it's a crazy busy dial too. We haven't even talked about the dial. My favorite thing, Andrew, my favorite thing. It's got a dot. Andrew, the dial has a dot on it. Dot over 90? 12 o'clock. No, dot over Albashorn logo. But when you're running the chronograph, the dot turns red. Where? That, look, look. We are looking at different watches. Oh, what watch are you looking at? You're looking at the watch from last year, dum-dum. Oh. I still like it. This is the link I sent you. We are stop you at home. I want you to do, do yourself a favor and just turn it off. Just what's on, what's the new, this American life episode. This is the link. I said, this is not worth your time. We have wasted your time and I'm sorry. Totally in agreement. I'm going to fucking I'm going to apologize for our existence. This is the 316th episode, and if you listen to a quarter of those, we owe you a debt. That's the watch I've been talking about. And I want you to do something else if you're feeling petty. I want you to go back about 10 minutes in the recording to when I told Andrew that that was the watch that came out last year. I just want you to rewind. I wasn't listening. This is terrific. I don't want to talk about watch. The Albashorn, this new... Let's do our friend a favor here. Let's do our friend a favor here. The new Elvis short, not the one that Andrew wants to talk about, but the one we were talking about, the type 10. I haven't talked about that at all yet, which is it's a great watch and you should go look at it. Also, they've seen a lot of maxi graph that came out a year ago that we didn't talk about on this show. Very cool. Very cool. Andrew also really likes that one too. Let's move it on. I need to compose myself for a moment here. Why don't you tell me what watch you're going to talk about and I'll get you started. I wanna talk about the Tatema Mara Safari Chronograph. I'm gonna show you a picture of it. Great, yep, great choice, I've got it up. Okay, so that's the watch we're gonna talk about. I'm gonna start with specs because the specs... Big. It is a big... Big. Big bitch. And then I... And then we can talk about it. So it's a 46... 0.5 millimeter case, 16 millimeters thick, titanium case, screw-in crown, bi-directional bezel, 300 meters of water resistance, 7750 movement base so we can kind of accept the 16 millimeters, right like we've We now know that we can get sub 12 but in the like if your brand is being helmed by a Chronograph genius it but if you're in the 13 to 16 with a 7750 base You're in the you're in that's the zone. You're in the zone, right? so This watch is unlike any chronograph you've ever seen. Because it is. Top down. Not a chronograph. It looks like a 90s tag kind of feel right. Kind of weird angles like hard. Angles. Like weird scalloping on the. Yes, galloping weird colors. And then you dig into it a little bit. So this watch is based on a 1927 Glashütte chronograph that this fella who owns this brand now wore for a long time and was like, man, I need to do this. So this has integrated hooded hidden pushers. for this chronograph, which is a design element that was instituted to keep the, yeah, it was a super functional thing that was done to protect pushers from being accidentally actuated. What do you want? Do you want this beer, Andrew? Do you want that one? I'll take this one. Yeah, so this is great. And so this is an existing, no, no, I was offering you a beer that you've opened and drank from. So this is a beer main collaboration with the Mara Elephant Project. Mark Goss is the head of that project and they protect elephants in the African Savannah. And Mark relied on a Totima chronograph that his late father wore as a ranger and pilot. And he inherited more, and then it was inspired by the design. So this is a... I don't think it was a Glashuta. I think it was a Totima, which is made in Glashuta, right?
Andrew Yes.
Everett Okay. So it's a Glashutte brand from the place. Glashutte, not the brand. Yeah, Glashutte place, not the Glashutte brand. The Glashutte place. The local locale. The brand then relocated, you know, after being destroyed during World War II, relocated, reestablished operations. So we have a pilot's chronograph that's super unique. Because when you imagine a pilot's chronograph, you imagine this big, fat, super simple, super legible dial with big ass pushers. And this is not that, right? This is like- I mean, it kind of is that, but also not. No, but it's not. It's like the special operations interpretation of a pilot's watch, right? The pushers have been shaved off. the legibility is kind of down. We've got this really scalloped case. We've got hooded lugs on a rubber strap. This is a really cool tool watch. Yeah. And it's, it's unlike any other watch in its category, right? You don't find pilot watches of 300 millimeters or 300 meters. You don't find pilot watches with disguised or hidden pushers. This is like kind of like Breitling-esque. Maybe I said tag earlier. Maybe I'm tending towards Breitling. Yeah, I can see it. But this is like, this is. is group world tool watchy. And I super dig it.
Andrew Yeah.
Everett On a green dial, matched green rubber strap. Like this is a fucking good looking watch. And when you buy it, you're contributing to the conservation efforts of elephants in Africa. And who doesn't want that? So 14 year anniversary is ivory. My 14th year wedding anniversary was this last March. You can't really buy ivory. There's like some ethical issues associated with it. So I bought my wife this, some bracelets from this company that when you buy from them, the money goes to conservation efforts, but you also get a QR code unique to a single animal. Oh, that's so I got her a couple. So she has this app now where she gets to track six months delayed. African elephants. Uh, so I was like, here's your ivory. It's not ivory, but you get to track the ivory as it, uh, thrives in, in Africa. Um, and it's six months delayed to prevent poaching. Uh, cause that'd be, that'd be super fucked up. This conservation organization like, Hey, here's where your elephant is. And it's been shot. But anyway, we're not talking about, I don't remember the name of the company. It's like Wallo or something like that. But yeah, this is. It's a great watch. This is like independent of the conservation efforts that it's associated with. Cause the whole, we didn't talk at all about it, but the, the guy is a brush pilot in Africa and was wearing his dad's watch doing brush pilot conservation work in Africa. Um, this is a good fucking tool watch. Like. How much are they? They're, uh, They're limited to 250, 4,600 euros. So I don't know. I'm sure it's worth that. Like, I think if you compare this to like a Pelagos chronograph, this isn't going to be as finished. It's not going to be as good as a Pelagos, but I think if you're kind of in the zone of like, I just want a fucking cool tool watch. This might compete with the Pelagos chronographs for me. I'm gonna talk about a watch that is perhaps not going to make you consider your bank account quite as much. And Andrew, I'll just give you a forewarning. This is my last watch for the night. There's some other things that I could talk about, but I'm not going to. This is my last watch for the night. And so I will queue you up. If you wanna select your last watch, you should, because after that, we're gonna talk about other things. This is a watch from a brand that I'm sure we've talked about on the show before, probably in the context of like X watches for X dollars type of shows. So that to say, I think it's been a while, but Squala is a brand that I think many people become familiarized with as they enter the hobby. for good reason, right? Squala make pretty accessible, relatively well-made watches that are often evocative of watches that maybe cost a little bit more. A few years back, Squala collaborated with Mark from Long Island Watch, a fellow that we've had on this show, and I think almost universally liked in the industry. Long Island Watch, many people have bought a watch from Long Island Watch, whether that is a Long Island or Islander branded watch or a Seiko or some other thing. Mark has also dabbled in modding parts, et cetera. Just a terrific guy with a terrific brand who is probably selling more watches than anybody in the United States, if I had to guess. Um, Mark and Squalla did a collaboration a few years back and they called it the Montauk. Montauk is the city on the very edge of Long Island. which is a great name for this watch. They have just released the third iteration of this watch and it's a little bit different. Whereas the first two versions of the Montauk I would say evoked, homaged the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. This watch has not done that. This watch has, I would say, arguably homaged a different watch, and that watch, I think, is the Volkane Skin Diver, which I think is a historically significant watch, but it was released a few years back by Volkane. The similarities are undeniable, I would say, but let's just talk a little bit about this watch. So this is not, you know, Squala I think is known for doing subs. They've also got their 1521, which is a terrific case, but this is a mid-size skin diver that comes in at 38 wide, 11'4 tall and just under 46 long so a really really nice size and that 11'4 I believe includes the crystal. 300 meters of water resistance for this so it is an excellently dimensioned serious water resistant watch. that's coming in at very, very few millimeters. It comes in four colorways, a black, a blue, a silver, and a copper. The black is terrific. The black is the only good one. The other colors are a little obnoxious, I think, personally. Which is kind of Squalla-esque, right? Sure. Squalla does not do color well. Squalla does black dial washes well. What a great set of dimensions. Um, the big difference between this and the Vulcain, uh, well, there's two big differences. One, this is half the price. And two, if you want a bracelet, it comes on a beads of rice, uh, as opposed to the big flat link bracelet that the Vulcain comes on. Um, 775 bucks for this dude. Ooh. Uh, you know, I could go for ceramic and aluminum. I like the aluminum look in the bezel, but I could I think ceramic would be better, you know. But that's kind of also squalor esque beggars can't be choosers, right? Squalor squalor very much like citizen nails. Eighty five percent of their execution. I, I think they've done a good job with the texture on this aluminum. It's not your traditional like super smooth. It's got a little bit of tech, a little bit of tooth to it. Um, I think this is great. 20 millimeter lugs. The bracelet doesn't taper quite enough. It's a 28 18, but whatever. Yeah. Uh, I mean, it's also a good, like You want to spend a little bit of money on a diver, you must spend less than a thousand. Yeah. This is an option for you. It's a really great looking watch. A real viable option too. Yeah. I'm wondering about where the collaboration comes in. You know, I think it is just a, well, maybe Mark is working with them on design, but I think it's more likely than not just an exclusive piece for Mark for Long Island Watch to sell on their website. So maybe. Really cool watch, I'm into it. That's all I have to say about it. Yeah, it's, I mean, and the way of squalor watches, it's a win for me. My next up, a brand we've also never talked about. Timex. I am not super excited to try to say this name.
Andrew Mm.
Everett Tuseño? Tuseño? Teseño? I think Tuseño. Tuseño? Yeah, Tuseño. I don't know. I've heard people speak Scandinavian languages, and that does not sound like a word. Tuseño. Maybe. Oh, we could be there. So this Toussaint brand began in Sweden. Is that how they say it? Sweden? Sweden? Sweden. It's a Swedish brand that began in 2015 and is aiming to lift up Swedish watchmaking. And this isn't the first time we have had a Swedish watch brand discussion. We've talked about a couple other Swedish watch brands here. So we're gonna talk about the Windseeker. And just briefly, so the Windseeker is truly, spec'd out, a go anywhere, do anything sport watch. This is a 39mm case, 10.5 thick, 47 lug to lug, nice and compact. Sellita SW200 movement, And at under 700 bucks, like this is kind of a banging sport watch with a butterfly bracelet and really, I think maybe my favorite dial texturing. We have these vertical kind of like, basketball-esque lines. Yeah, almost like a longitudinal, like a longitudinal map overlay. Yeah, kind of a globe, a round six o'clock date aperture, just a really attractive, super simple watch with a, I don't know, kind of a gunmetal-y blue and a silver option. This is a banger. We've got a black dial. Hang on. Let's get the full dial options here. I do understand. Yeah, go ahead. Black, blue-gray, or silver? So the blue-gray is kind of like a gunmetal blue. Silver, the black is good with a yellow hand. The blue-silver with a yellow-tipped second hand, and the silver's a miss. I'm not a big fan of the silver. It's got kind of a way too dark of a blue-tipped second hand. But this is just a really attractive sport watch. At under a thousand bucks. 650 US dollars. Yeah, it's a it's a win. It's a win. I'm with you. I'm going to say nothing bad about it because it's boring. It's a sport watch on a butterfly. It's attractive. They're using and they're transparent about Chinese manufacturing, Swedish assembly. Or Swiss assembly. I kind of appreciate that. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Like, no, we made this in China because that's how we can afford to sell it to you for this price. Right, right. Yeah, I think it's a good watch. It's not exciting or exceptional in any way, and that's what makes it exciting to me. So a quick rundown of other things, or not other things, a quick rundown of other watches. Rado re-released their anatom with a ceramic bracelet. Gronefeld has a new brand called Grone, which is cheap. Casio released a Casiotron in PVD. which is a looker. Tissot released a 25-millimeter PRX line with quartz movements that are interesting. And Warner Wound and Timex teamed up one more time for V3 of the WW75, which if you've been tracking this at all, these are the hand-wound, seagull, sort of 60s, 70s Timex, And it's essentially just two new colorways of the same watch. There's sort of like a cranberry and then a peach. And the ceramic 50 fathoms have some new colorways. And ceramic 50 fathoms. And with that, we did it. We actually got through everything. Oh, no, there's one more. And I don't know what this is. Oh, there's an FP shorn. Oh, yeah, Michelin star. I don't know what that is. I but then hold on. Hold on. I was intrigued by that. Quickly. You've got 30 seconds. Mambre mb2. Can you? What is that? I think I've already closed that link. Oh, well, yeah, I wasn't gonna get to it. So I close the link. It's interesting. Probably. I don't know anything about it. I won't talk about it next week. So we'll come up. The link is closed. That's it that but we said the name. So Andrew other things. What do you got? Okay, so I was Desperate to watch something that I hadn't watched Desperate I'm watching through I'm clicking through all of the streaming services that I subscribe to I Went back to Apple TV And I forgot about a trailer that I had seen some months ago And it was in my recommended for you watch Wolves Have you watched this? I have not. So Wolfs came out this year. It is a buddy action comedy, tending towards like action dramedy with Brad Pitt and George Clooney, who are both cleaners. Quote unquote cleaners fixers like the wolf. And. That's all I'm going to give in the way of. Story spoilers. This was like. It almost seemed like it was unscripted. Like it was just Brad Pitt and George Clooney put in front of a camera, and they were like, have fun, boys. It was fantastic. They play off each other super well. They progress the story well. It was pretty predictable. But this is a movie that you watch, and at no point do you ever check your watch, and at no point do you ever wonder, is it almost over? It was just enjoyable, right? And it was a nothing movie, right? There was nothing groundbreaking about it. There was nothing really that exciting about it. There's this fun kind of like sidekick character that gets introduced into it that they play off of super well, but it was just kind of like Clooney and Pitt hanging out together. but forced to push a story along. Hmm. I loved it. It was super digestible. Like I said, it was not groundbreaking at all in its storytelling or in its story overhaul. But it was just fun. And Apple TV is interesting in that they have this like They they're like making a move to replace AMC in this. Like drama. Relatable antihero world. And then they drop something like this or just like, oh, this is just kind of a fun buddy comedy that's not a comedy, but is real funny all at once. So it's absolutely worth a watch. You are not going to be sad with your use of your time. This is just one phrase from a Rotten Tomatoes viewer review. This cinematic equivalent of a burp. Maybe. I like that. You ever burped after you eat 100 chicken wings? Cinematic equivalent of a burp. I wouldn't go that far. It's not groundbreaking. Yeah, but you enjoyed it. It was fun. I like Andrew's, like, this is fine. Other things, those are fine. I have, well, I was gonna do another thing, a different other thing for this week. I'm not fully prepared to buy into it yet. Andrew, I've got another thing. Do me. I don't even know how to link this. You can't link this. I've become obsessed with a thing as I'm want to do. And I've been a beneficiary of the obsession. I have recently become obsessed with vintage Eddie Bauer. So if you grew up in the eighties and nineties, like Andrew and I did, you know, Eddie Bauer is a mall brand that makes, uh, goods, sporting goods in China and sells them for relatively affordable prices at the mall. This is what Eddie Bauer is. However, not what it was. Eddie Bauer has a history, they're a Seattle company, and they have a history of making really dope outdoor gear and menswear, hunting and fishing gear, up until about the 80s. Yeah. Like the late eighties, early nineties when they moved to the malls. Yeah. Even, even before then really like seventies and eighties, um, they had, they had a reputation for making really fucking good stuff in the United States out of the best materials. So Eddie Bauer, not everybody knows this. Eddie Bauer really invented the puffer jacket, like the down jacket. That's Eddie Bauer. Um, Bauer was the upland, bird hunting brand of choice through the 50s and 60s. I have recently discovered that eBay, the website known as eBay, is absolutely flush at any given moment with what is commonly referred to as black label Eddie Bauer items from the 70s and 80s that are oftentimes made in the United States, that are oftentimes made with stunning wool, oftentimes made by Pendleton and or Filson. And I've gone on a bit of a buying spree. So what I'm holding in my hands now is a probably early 80s Black label Eddie Bauer made in the United States wool bomber jacket. Tell me about black label. Well, so literally refers to the label that is black. So if you see an Eddie Bauer item on eBay and the label is black with gold writing, that's what's called a black label Eddie Bauer item. And I think the idea is the black label Eddie Bauer was typically made prior to the transition. to this more sort of fast food, uh, fast fashion, fast fashion. Um, so this item I'm holding in my hands is a Melton wool bomber jacket with fabric either made at the Pendleton wool and mills or Filson. We don't know. I don't know. But really, that's who Eddie Bauer was buying most of their wool from. It was made at a woolen mill, though. This is made at a United States woolen mill. And this is a bright red bomber jacket. Fire engine red. Sort of like the Harrington jacket that the Barracuda that James Dean wears in Rebel Without a Cause. It looks identical to that. In fact, the liner is a Barracuda. This is sort of an Eddie Bauer version of a Barracuda G9 made in Melton wool, like I said, probably from Filson. I got this thing, Andrew, how much do you think this was? Well, so let's play a game here. So first how much do you think if you were to buy an item like this? Today made in the United States out of United States. Melton wool I'm guessing this is $700 jacket. Yeah, I'd say five to seven It depends on who you're buying it from that this quality of wool though. You're tending towards the six to seven hundreds I think five to seven is fair This is just like super tight I bought that plate will 30 bucks. Yeah. 30 bucks. And when you, when this was first purchased in the eighties, this was probably 95 to a hundred bucks. I will tell you what, this jacket looks like brand fucking new. Well, it's in terrific condition, but it also style wise, there's something about, this era of Eddie Bauer, the style on this stuff is timeless. So the rib knit on this is in really good condition. It's obviously like a nylon rib knit, but it looks terrific. The style on this thing is timeless. Okay. Right on the floor. I got another item. So this is a shirt jack, what I'm gonna call a shirt jack. I think this is made with Pendleton wool. You can tell the wool is a little different. That's. Yeah, I got this thing for 15 bucks and free shipping. So this is a light on for sure. Blue and khaki black label Eddie Bauer shirt jack with patch pockets and like hunting wrist pockets on it. I've got another one. This is like a sort of a similar type of idea, but it's like a gray This is like shirt Jack. I'm gonna leave 40 bucks. This is I'm gonna leave work and go to the the tree stand Design and then I've got this is the piece D resistance. This is a A car coat. It's an Eddie Bauer. It is made of Melton wool. I think this is Filson wool. I don't know that for sure. There's no way to know. This is probably made mid 80s, like maybe 84 or 85. It's a short top coat. It's a car coat is what it is. It is double thickness Filson Melton wool. It's with $600 worth of wool. I got this thing for 45 bucks, Andrew. It's got these horn buttons, these natural horn buttons. Unfortunately, the buttons are not in great shape, but these like- They're not as bad as you described. This thing is insane. This thing was 50 bucks. So I have here for. That's $4,000. $150, yeah. I mean, and this stuff all. Because that's a $1,000 jacket. It's a $1,000 jacket. This stuff all looks terrific.
Andrew Maybe more, yeah.
Everett It's all like, it doesn't look dated. Sometimes when you buy used stuff, like you get it and you're like, meh. We were talking a little bit about the fit on this is a little funny. The cut is a little funny. The cut's a little funny. It's not flattering. But unzipped, it's a totally flattering and handsome jacket. I mean, this stuff is nuts, dude. So that's my new obsession. Even be like a two thousand dollar jacket. Vintage made in the USA. Eddie Bauer wool shit is my new obsession. Like, I can't stop. I'm like, I don't need. He bought three pieces of three. I'm seeing pieces like I'm a fucking asshole. He bought three things. I was like, maybe they'll fit and they don't fit. And you just gave them to me. I don't need any more shirt jacks because, no, cause you have that one. I have like 10 at the house, but I can't stop buying this shit. Cause I'm like, well, fuck. So I found this, do you know what a capelet is? Yes. I found this, it's co-branded CC Filson for Eddie Bauer. and it's probably made in the late 70s or early 80s, and it's this camel wool cape coat with this beautiful satin liner. It's a women's. If we could wear that, you'd look like a villain. I asked my wife, I was like, would you wear this? And she's like, no, I would never wear that. And I'm like, God. I'm so disappointed because I don't want to sure. I need to buy this thing because it's one of the coolest things ever made. So vintage Eddie Bauer on eBay, you will not regret it. This stuff is insane. No. Cause Eddie Bauer in the day, like prior to being a mall brand was the like premier sporting brand. Eddie Bauer, L.L. Bean, like these brands that kind of pivoted to be mall brands were like the working man brand of like, yeah, I'm gonna sell you something one time, and you'll never wear it out. I dare you to break it. This jacket, so I've got like a herringbone gray jacket. That's a really lovely jacket. I'm pretty confident that this is Filson herringbone wool. This is essentially a Mackinac jacket, is what it is. This is a Maine Seattle Mackinac jacket, branded Eddie Bauer. If you were to buy this today at retail, this is a $450 jacket. This thing is I mean it's been worn. It's not this thing isn't like brand-new looking. It's been worn, but lovingly It's not broken. It's not damaged This is a $450 jacket that I got for This one. I think this is the one that was 15 bucks with new free shipping Yeah, I paid I paid 15 bucks for this Andrew ship to my house. That's a handsome handsome jacket, and it's excellent It is excellent and and they did sorry that we're just describing the stuff and you don't get to see it They did the work they broke in the wall cuz wool brand-new like that. It's just stiff. This is itchy terrific They're terrific Also fan Andrew a vintage DN sweater that I talked about last week. Mm-hmm And he has it and it looks good on me. It smells like an old man. It does and I can't dig it It's like slightly arousing and you're slightly smaller than me and by slightly I mean significantly And so I got it, and it just didn't fit me. It was a 42, but it probably wears more like a 39. Yeah, I'm just, my shoulders aren't as broad. Because you're three inches taller than I am. Your gut's not as big either. Even if it's the shoulder dimensions. It looks great on him. It does. 30 bucks. I'm not gonna pay you back. You guys, that's all we got. Andrew, you want to add anything before we go? Well, one last thing. We talked about it briefly last week. Happy Veterans Day to all those veteran listeners out there. Thank you for what you've done for our country. As veterans ourselves, we appreciate exactly what it means to be a veteran. So thank you. Yeah, thanks, you guys. Thanks, you guys. And I know a lot of you are veterans because we talked to you about it. So this is the time of year where we say it. Thanks for your service. And even if you weren't a veteran, thank you for tuning in for this episode of 40 and 20 The Watch Clicker podcast. Where we talk about jackets. Where we talk about jackets. Do me a favor, go to our website, watchclicker.com. We post articles and reviews there, and they're really pretty good. Much better content than what you've just listened to. If you want to check us out on social media, you can do that on Instagram, at 40 and 20 underscore Watch Clicker, or at Watch Clicker. That's where you're most likely to be able to reach us too, if you want to talk to us. If you want to support us in Bull Boy, We hope you do it. And actually, we kind of need you to. Patreon.com slash 40 and 20. That is actually how this thing is still going 316 episodes later. If you guys weren't there on Patreon supporting us, we would not be doing this. Thank you so much. Hey, and also don't forget to tune back in next Thursday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Bye-bye.