Geneva Watch Days in Full Swing (306)

Published on Wed, 04 Sep 2024 21:57:59 -0700

Synopsis

In this episode of the 40 in 20 podcast, hosts Andrew and Everett discuss recent watch releases and news from Geneva Watch Days. They cover new models from brands like Doxa, Unimatic, Alpina, G-Shock, Christopher Ward, and Tudor. Highlights include a left-handed Doxa Sub 300T, Unimatic's first GMT watches, a colorful new G-Shock, and Tudor's blue Black Bay Chronograph. The hosts provide their thoughts on the designs, specs, and pricing of these new releases. They also touch on personal topics like Andrew's new puppy and Everett watching Jordan Peele films with his daughter. The episode offers an in-depth look at the latest happenings in the watch world mixed with casual conversation between the hosts.

Transcript

Speaker
Andrew Hello fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 in 20, the Watch Clicker podcast with your hosts, Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here, we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like.
Everett Everett, how are you? So good. I did my first fantasy draft of the season tonight. That's late. One of two. My second one's tomorrow night. Uh, it's interesting because I've got a, um, I've got a eight man draft that I did tonight, which is a tiny league. And then I think my draft for tomorrow is, I've been saying 12, but I think it's actually a 14 person league. That's a big league.
Andrew Yeah. And the nice thing is when you get that many people, there's almost four teams that are no longer participating. Like they're just, they don't even set their roster.
Everett Right. Well, actually we drop people from the, this is a pretty competitive, it's like a kind of a big money league. So, uh, I have to explain the Venmo every year when I sign up, my wife is like, what was that? What was that? 300.
Andrew It's not important what it was.
Everett Um, but yeah, no, it's, uh, it's, it's fun. It's crazy how different the approach is for, eight versus 12, right? Eight is just like get a tight end and a quarterback, like rounds four or five, and then just load up on wide receivers and running backs.
Andrew Yep.
Everett It's also a two flex player league. So you've got two running backs, two wide receivers and two flex positions, which can be tight end. So it kind of makes sense to get a second tight end in this league. Which I did, but that's always like, do I really need, you know, but maybe, I don't know. Yeah, it's weird. It's much different. The leagues are very different, so it's fun. It's fun doing them back-to-back nights, because eight man tonight, I have to forget everything.
Andrew Yeah, the strategy's wholly new. Do you know your draft order for tomorrow night?
Everett Yes, I am the 11th team. Oof. It's terrible. It's terrible. I mean, you are really, it's really slim pickings and you get to, you know, you get to like November, late November in that league. And it is like, you can't get anybody on the waiver wire. Nobody will trade anything. Um, yeah, it's a hard league. That's a hard league. You've got teams that will score 125 a week and then teams that will score in the eighties. Um, yeah. It's tough. That's a tough league. Yeah. I actually don't like it as much. It's, it's pretty, uh, win lose. Andrew, how are you?
Andrew I am great. Yesterday, yesterday. Yeah. I, uh, we went and picked up our new dog. So we have a puppy in the house and it is exactly as tiring as I expected it to be. I have long and always will say that puppies are harder than babies in the first year of life. Because babies aren't mobile, nor are their mouths filled with razor blades. After the first year of life, things get a little different, but dogs are tough. No diaper, razor blades for a mouth. But true to the promise of the breeder, he is almost annoyingly lazy. He'll play for a little bit and like, you know, I think I need about a 30 minute nap and then just goes lights out. He just, he just quits wherever he is and plops over. Great snuggler, very sweet. The boys love him. Uh, so that's kind of been the consumed my entire existence this last couple of weeks is get both getting ready for and now having, uh, having Doug at the house. So I'm great. I'm, uh, thoroughly enjoying the new,
Everett I think the idea, the concept that a puppy is harder than a baby is absurd, but.
Andrew Well, that's, I mean, absurd at all you want. I'm telling you, I found every time we've had a new young dog, that first year is so much harder than the first year with a baby.
Everett Maybe like the first like three weeks. But then they're like, Going outside and pottying. Yeah, I think you're I think you're out of your mind. All right. Maybe that's just actually that just is evidence of how much Andrew did of the early baby. Perhaps. Either way, we're not here to talk about fantasy football or puppies or babies. Praise the Lord. Rather, we're here to talk about watches and whoa. Whoa. There's some cool stuff. I do feel like we say this pretty regularly, but this was a big week. There's no chance we're going to talk about this thing. I think this is like a top five, maybe top 10 watch release week in my memory. Not necessarily because of The quantity of releases, although there were a ton, but the quality of the releases.
Andrew Oh my goodness. Yeah. There's some, uh, some stuff we didn't know we needed and boy, did we need it.
Everett Right. Right. And, and you know what, not a ton of like wholly new stuff that that's new. That's new ish. Uh, that's new. So, you know, most of this stuff isn't like new. new new, but it is very interesting. It is very interesting, I would say.
Andrew Can I start?
Everett I mean, if you feel like you.
Andrew I'm going to cheat. I'm going to start with two. So the one that got me the most excited this week and it is.
Everett Well, before before you start, I will just say this is this is I think yesterday or today is the beginning of quote unquote Seiko week. So we're going to be a little. We do have some Seiko today. We're going to be a little light on Seiko this week. I suspect next week is going to be a lot of Seiko, although I'm not sure of that. I, I think this might be a down Seiko. I'm going to make a prediction. This is going to be a down year for Seiko.
Andrew I'm prepared to be let down.
Everett All right.
Andrew Or just like underwhelmed.
Everett All right. I don't mean to interrupt. Go ahead.
Andrew Yeah, no, that's what you do though. Uh, first up for me, and this is a cheat because I'm going to do, I'm going to double up the Doxa sub 300 T professional Aristera limited edition. This is cool. There is a left-handed 300 T they're only making 300 of 300 of them. Yep. 300 of them only in pro, which is orange crown left. This is dope. And here's the coolest part about it. Uh, though they're only making 300, it's the same price. It's how much you pay for a 300 T. Yeah. That's like, that's the way to do a limited edition, not like, crank the price up. Um, I don't know what all goes into in, in the way of, uh, like actual watchmaking to just turn the dial upside down. Um, not upside down, just rotate it.
Everett Yeah. I, I, I don't, I don't know. Uh, I do know that the, they didn't move the date on this. Um, the date is still in that right at that three o'clock position. So I don't know. I mean, you're going to have to futz with the with the dial, maybe with the dial pins. But I actually don't know what these how these things are constructed. So maybe not.
Andrew I think this is a really fun release, and it's especially intriguing to me because I would very much like a Crown Left 300T. I don't know how hard these are going to be to get.
Everett I don't know. Can you buy them now?
Andrew They're available on pre-order. Hang on. Uh, they're pre-order with delivery in October. Um, so I don't know. It's, I can, I just clicked the pre-order button.
Everett What is, so, I mean, besides being left-handed, um.
Andrew Oh, it looks like it's not available.
Everett It's got an aluminum insert. I mean, really, this is just a 300T with an aluminum insert.
Andrew Which is why it's not. Oh, you got to pay full price on your preorder. Yeah. You got to buy it today.
Everett I do like that dial, the pad printed dial, but it's I mean, this is really just it's just a left handed 300T.
Andrew Now, some change, some some other exciting and new Doxa news. The color that we saw released with the 200T that came out fairly recently. the emerald or the sea emerald green has now made its way across the entire line of skews. So we don't just have the sunburst. We've got the mat, we've got the flat, we've got a guilt. All of this green has made its way across the entire catalog, which is cool. Cause I really like this green. This is one of my favorite green executions. Yeah. I don't like the guilt I could do without that. I would prefer white, but
Everett Uh, well, when we talked about that, when we talked about this with the 200 T, right, which is, do we like that? I don't know. I don't know. Um, but it does, it is striking. They've actually just said, this is, this is a thing we're going to do. They must've known about this for a while.
Andrew So I think they just, you know, piloted the reception of that C Emerald with the 200 T and they're like, Oh, this is actually doing pretty good. They tweaked it up a little bit to, to match the rest of the lineup and said, Hey, here you go. Which is cool. It's like for, for Doxa to have two true new introductions over the course of a year is different.
Everett Yeah. I like it. And I think that was smart to do that. It's a double. Um, how about another double, which Unimatic, Andrew, this is a brand we're talking about more and more often. Unimatic, so Unimatic has released two, uh, two Japanese GMTs, uh, which I believe are the first two Japanese in the Unimatic, the first two Japanese GMTs or GMTs in the Unimatic collection. So Unimatic, we've talked about this a number of times, this sort of these minimalist, like anti, they kind of have like a bit of an anti vibe, I would say. And only if, so I guess they do have a few GMTs. So they've released the Modelo Uno, reference U1-GMT, and the Modelo Quattro, reference U4-GMT. Both of those with NH34 GMTs inside. Interesting move not to go with a 9075, but I think given the dimensions that Unimatic plays with, the NH34A makes a ton of sense. So the U1 comes in a 40 millimeter wide case with a fully brushed and 120, fully brushed finish, 120 click. Their security bezel, their mono directional, unidirectional bezel with a matte black 24-hour bezel insert. Big double dome sapphire, 300 meters of water resistance, matte black dial, the super Luminova C1 markers, the white super Luminova markers. with a black GMT hand, which I like, a loomed GMT hand.
Andrew It looks really good loomed up.
Everett Yeah, yeah. Unimatic does great. Unimatic does great loom. For the Quattro, so both of these are limited to 300 pieces. For the Quattro, similar here, 40 millimeter case, Definitely more of like a faceted finish than the Uno. But we've got a silver monoblock bezel with like an acid etch. Yeah. Also in 24 hours. Flat sapphire on that guy. Dials, I think, are identical.
Andrew Yeah, I'm not... Same movement, same strap.
Everett Uh, these are, these are cool. Uh, price prices on these are great. They're, you know, appropriate, I would say for, they're appropriate, I'd say for a Seiko movement, uh, 675 for the U1 and 675 for the U4. Yeah, that's right. So I like the, I like the U4. I like that sort of that acid etched gray bezel. Uh, and I, I really liked the GMT hand on this, that big sort of black GMT hand that fades into the dial that just disappears into the dial.
Andrew But that big white floating arrow on the, on the dial, this is very unimatic. This is like, this is just pure unimatic design, super simple, absolutely no frills. I'm, I'm with you on that steel monoblock bezel though. That's a,
Everett It looks good, right?
Andrew It really looks good. I think, though, because it doesn't really have much of a bevel on it, it it's going to. In my head, that's going to wear bigger than something with a rotating bezel. I don't know why, or at least it looks bigger because there's no texture to like pull off the. Sure. To break up that that big slab of a bezel.
Everett With the U1, you get the coin edge. Yeah. Yeah. Either way, I think these are both great. I think they're simple. I think you get what you pay for with this stuff. So this is not going to be a haute horology, but it's a really cool piece with a cool movement. Um, limited to 300 pieces for each of these. So I, you know, I just don't, I don't think these are going to be something that is around for forever. No, I don't think so either. Um, I do like the 300 meters of water resistance. It's just a cool watch.
Andrew Yeah, it's a specked out, like a little bit off the beaten path, affordable GMT.
Everett I got them both at just well, so so you're the the. The U4 is 13.9 thick. So I think you're right. I do think it's gonna wear a little bit bigger the you one is 13 six So they're both pretty pretty chunky watches.
Andrew These are not but they're 40 millimeter dive watches.
Everett That's right.
Andrew These aren't gonna be sleek No, they're not meant to be sleek sporty big old watch. Yeah Pretty cool. I I got a brand that we have never talked about on the show Mmm impossible micro mil spec, okay It is possible. We've never talked about them and it makes sense that we've never talked about them. They're a relatively young brand. They're a Norwegian brand who were founded in 2019. Uh, and they've, they've done primarily made to order manufacturing for military units, small batch releases, uh, that were made to order. They've had one release up to this point. Um, Ooh, I should also mention they've done, they've made watches for the U S space force. Uh, so you know, it's good. or something. So they have released their second catalog available watch. It's going to be 50 pieces annually. It is a chronograph GMT. They're using the Le Jouperet L121 60 hour power reserve column wheel. It's Pretty dope. It is a kind of integrated sport watch feeling, very tool watch looking left side controls for your chronograph, for your crown. And this, this looks like kind of that Victoria Knox era, like nineties chunky tools. Like it kind of reminds me of Boulder. Very angular. Oh, yeah, it's titanium or grade five titanium in here. These are real sexy.
Everett Yeah. You know, I can't actually think of a watch that this would compare to directly or otherwise. But when I saw this, I immediately got Fortis vibes. Yeah. I don't think Fortis has anything in its catalog that looks anything like this. Uh, my, my first thought was Nova knot and I went and looked at the Nova knot and I was like, no, they don't look anything alike. But that was my immediate reaction was like, Oh, this is like a bit of a Fortis vibe.
Andrew Um, but it kind of has that Breitling like instrument vibe with multiple sub dials that are all kind of doing different things and they're not uniformly designed. There's good texture on it. This is, this is cool. And, They're only $3,800. And for a chronograph GMT, 100 meters of water resistance, sapphire crystal, titanium case, I think that's in the zone. It's a 42 millimeter, 15 millimeter thick, 50 millimeters lug to lug. Like this is a big, no bullshit tool watch.
Everett Have you seen any of the model picks for this? So it's a big old fucking watch, but look at this.
Andrew So one of the models, the veins in that guy's hand.
Everett Well, not just that, but look how it is like, like it takes up like 17% of his available wrist space. Like they, they were like, Hey, we're in Norway, go find the biggest motherfuckers so we can make this watch acquirable. Um, I'm sure that this is a wearable watch, and I'm not suggesting it's not. The lug-to-lug's really conservative. But whoever this model is, I don't have wrists as big as this man.
Andrew Mm-mm. I don't. And I'm not sure I'd want to ever cross paths with this guy.
Everett What's the thickness on this, Andrew? 15. Yeah, so it's pretty chunky. Yeah, no, that's a 50.3 millimeter lug-to-lug. And I'm not joking. This thing is like he's got a solid visible centimeter and a half on either side of this. Like that is a giant man.
Andrew Yeah. Or, or maybe their prototype was scaled down.
Everett I hope that's got nothing to do with the watch at all.
Andrew No, it matters. Wearability is important. Uh, this is going to be a really wearable watch, but it's a big fucking watch and it's just, it's dope. And they're going to make 50 a year annually. So if you see one of these, like you're going to be a really lucky dude or lady because there are not going to be many of these out in the wild. OK, wait.
Everett So what is the what is the text on the dial? Micro mil spec mill graph, 10 atmospheres. OK.
Andrew Yeah. And then your serial number on on the front.
Everett I like how the chronograph. So there's no numbers on the chronograph, but it tells you what they are. So there's like a little tab. on each of these 12, three, six markers. So a little tab hours for the 12 seconds for the three minutes for the that's, it's interesting. I don't know that I've ever seen that before. I mean, it makes a lot of sense, but it's pretty interesting that they've done that. I don't like any of the fonts, Andrew, but it's not surprising.
Andrew These are, these are tactical fonts though. Yeah.
Everett And they and they work. I really like that the texture on the dial and these fonts really work with that. So nothing's black and nothing's white. I also kind of like that everything is a shade of gray.
Andrew The texture on the bezel, I really like. It's like in cuts. And what do you call that? That's like it's not scalloping, but it's that's kind of a scallop. It's like a facet. Yeah.
Everett Yeah. Like a bit of a relief cut to get texture. But it's almost not there. Like from the top down, you might not even notice it. This is a cool watch, and I agree with you, Andrew, on the price. I don't think the price is great.
Andrew No, you're not getting a steal here, but you're paying for a probably, almost certainly very well-finished, very intentional... They call it the quad grip. Quad grip. Don't have that, but whatever. Yeah, the the the integration of the guards with the pushers for the chronograph is really great. It's almost like a like an asymmetric case, but it's all flush. So you can actuate your pushers, but they're still guarded by this. Case, this is good. I would very much like to see one of these in person.
Everett Yeah, yeah, no, this is interesting. And like you said, it's a brand I haven't heard of Le Jouperie movement. I mean, everything's right here. Yeah. Yeah. 50 pieces annually. So limited to 50 pieces per year. So perhaps if you want one this year and can't get it, you can get one next year. Cool watch, Andrew. Yeah. I didn't pick it, so I don't care, but it is pretty cool.
Andrew It looks like there's also two models. We didn't really talk about the other one. I don't care.
Everett I'm going to talk about a watch that's not new, but it's just like freaking incredible, okay? If you're going to spend a bucket load of money on a watch this year, and you're just going to buy one, but you've got like $62,300 to dump on it. I'm going to make a recommendation here. Zenith has, uh, collaborated with an optical, they call him an optical artist named Felipe Pantone. Not someone I'd heard of. He is, um, he is an artist and he's like kind of in the,
Andrew in the art world?
Everett Yeah. Well, no, I'm trying to figure out how I want to characterize this. I w I would say, um, perhaps a graffiti artist, although I don't think that's right. He is Argentine slash Spanish. I think he's a dual citizen and he's making these sort of digital, uh, He's making these digital like sort of pop art, but they use like motion within the colors. They say kinetic art, which I guess that makes sense.
Andrew I just turned my phone screen as if that was going to do it.
Everett Right. And it doesn't.
Andrew And it doesn't do it, I suspect. No, it did not have the intended effect.
Everett You know, interestingly enough, when I read this fellow's name, I was like, oh, he must have named himself after Pantone. But it turns out he didn't. So it was actually like Pantone was his tagger name. And then when he started spelling it out, it was Pantone, you know, it was like P-A-N-T. And then he added a one to that. And then when he started writing it out, it was Pantone. And then someone was like, hey, you know, that's like the inventor of color. Not really. Anyway, that's a coincidence.
Andrew It could be the adventure of color. I think pant one would be more appropriate.
Everett I don't know who this guy is, but I suspect if you're like super into pop art, you might. Anyway, he's teamed up with Zenith, which is just a bizarre collaboration. I mean, it's a bizarre collaboration. And they've teamed up to make a Defy watch that is maybe the coolest sort of artist collaboration watch I've ever seen in my life.
Andrew And you know why? It's because it's so unexpected. Nothing about this collaboration makes sense and that's why it makes perfect sense. I would never expect to see this watch done up like this. It doesn't make sense and you see it and it's perfect.
Everett So it's got a, what they're calling 3D PVD technology. wherein they've made the bridge, cage, indexes, and hands all with this method in like with sort of lightning bolts motifs that are prevalent in Pantone's work. And they give this shimmering rainbow look. You've got a sapphire dial with these micro-engraved concentric circles that start around the open heart and then give this moiré as you move out, this watch should be gaudy and awful, right? This is like one of those late 90s mail order rainbow oil can watches that should just be fucking terrible and instead it is Absolutely stunning. Totally refined, which is almost, it seems to me like it would be almost impossible to make a watch that's on paper this audacious, refined. This thing is terrific. It's terrific, Andrew. And it's the Zenith Defy Skyline, right? So you know what you're getting. Man, oh man. I just I I'm sort of like taken aback by how much I like this watch.
Andrew You know what I don't like? Tell me. I don't like the engravings on the case that indicate the collaboration. There's an FP for Philippe Pantone on the upper left and upper right and then a T1 on the bottom left bottom right. I don't I think that I don't like that.
Everett I'm okay with it, man. I'm telling you, I love everything about this watch.
Andrew I think it's... Seeing one in person will be breathtaking because you know this thing is just going to bounce color all over the place. That sapphire is going to reflect and move color around on the dial and then further reflect off of all these bevels on the markers and bounce around in the tourbillon.
Everett So these are available. On September 12th, if you've got, you know, 60, 65 grand, that's just burning a hole in your pocket and you can buy them online or at boutiques. 100 of them. There's a hundred pieces. So I think that if you do want one of these, you can get one. I want one. I will not be getting one. Um, at least that's what I'm going to tell my wife. Uh, Oh, did I mention that this is a tourbillon? Did I mention that?
Andrew I mentioned something about the tourbillon. I don't know if you did or not. Cause why not? Why not? Just like, you know, up the ante a little bit on something already pretty audacious.
Everett Yeah. Yeah. So I guess that this is their second launch. They did a defy 21 double tour beyond in a Sapphire case, which they say it achieved a record price at auction.
Andrew I don't know what that means, what, what record, but the record for a Zenith with a Sapphire case. Yes, that's right. Every time it sells, it achieves the record.
Everett I think I record low. I think this is terrific man.
Andrew It's it's a really cool Yeah, watch that's not the watch that I thought you were to talk about when you were talking about this price point though There is another brand that we don't really talk about very often who did a collaboration with somebody who I would also Categorize as an optical artist. Oh, yeah, this is a good one H Mosier and studio underdog with a collaboration. Here's the kicker They only come as a set. So, uh, these two brands have gotten together to do a passion fruit watch, uh, Endeavor Perpetual Calendar from Mosier and a Fruit 03 Mono Pusher Chronograph from Studio Underdog, both colored in his, in the passion fruit, uh, colorway in there. Lovely. As with every studio underdog, the texture and color is just right. I never thought that, uh, Moser would be a brand that needed a color infusion or that I would like with a color infusion like this. Do you pronounce it Moser or Moser?
Everett Moser?
Andrew I, you know, I always said Moser, but I don't know. It's not English. I'm just going to say it how I like it. I think H Moser I think is, I don't know. Now you made me self-conscious. I'm just going to go back and forth. Uh, it's not a, it's not a brand I would have ever thought, you know what, we need a studio underdog version of this and seeing it, I'm really down with it. Uh, for the pair, they are, um, hang on 64,900. So these are going to be the record setting studio underdog watches ever sold. Um, because he's not usually working in that price range. Right. Correct. Right. But they're absolutely gorgeous. The passion fruit color is great. Great texture in the, in the yellow, in the middle of the dial that, uh, Whoa, my color. There we go. I had really lovely contrasts with that deep purple. It's, it's great. And what it's a weird, weird collaboration. I don't know who hooked these two brands up and they were like, yeah, let's do it.
Everett I mean, it, it, it almost just doesn't even matter. Right. You know, I will say a lot of people, like a lot of the reactions I read about this combo were negative. I think the idea of paying $65,000 for a studio underdog watch, a brand known for making affordable watches, right? I think just rubs internet people the wrong way. And they were, they were very vocal about having been rubbed that wrong way. Um, I think it's terrific. You know, Moser is a brand that is known for marketing with its middle finger. I don't get that same feeling from Studio Underdog.
Andrew But he is a middle finger. He's a middle finger to all the snooty neck beards out there. I mean, he made a pepperoni pizza watch. Let's be serious here. This is like this is his thing.
Everett You know, we talked about the It's About Time blog a few weeks ago, and I was reading his I was reading his write up on this watch, and he suggested that Studio Underdog may be prepping people for an inevitable price jump. Because of the amount of demand, it makes sense, a rational economic model, it would make sense for Studio Underdog to raise their prices. I think given a raised price, you could expect a increase in quality. One would hope they're not just going to raise the prices If they're going to charge more for their watches, they can then increase the quality with similar margins, with probably a very similar supply chain, but that there is going to be more and nicer watches, more nicer watches in studio underdogs releases moving forward.
Andrew Maybe, but I don't see him working in the five-figure area.
Everett Sure, but even at, you know, five grand, that's a huge jump. I mean, I think that studio underdogs have all been under a thousand at this point.
Andrew In the zone, oh yeah, I don't think any have gone over a thousand.
Everett And so, you know, even if, I mean, even at 2,500, right? Yeah. All of a sudden the supply demand equilibrium is different.
Andrew I think he should raise his prices until he finds it. You know, you sell out every single watch in such a hurry, you're leaving money on the table. But to an extent that, you know.
Everett But with that, you can also increase the quality of the watch, right? Yeah. So, um, yeah, it's interesting. And actually I've thought about this in the past, Andrew, like, so let's not talk about things like the Omega Swatch, the Moon Swatches, right? Because I think that that's a one-off, but when you have these brands, that are insta-selling out watches and then they're going on the secondary market or whatever, watches or knives or whatever, right? If, you know, some things it's just like, you can't make this any better. But then there are other things where watches, for instance, there's a lot of room for most of these brands. Like if you're using a Selita 300 or whatever, um, and selling your watch at 1200 and it's selling out instantly, like there's room. Right? You know, there are movements above a Salida 300. Um, if you're, you know, maybe you can improve the bracelet, you know, that's hard without R and D. But I guess my point is like, I'm always curious when these brands like sort of stay with their stick with their guns cause they want to be at a price point.
Andrew Like, or not even just at a price point, but I I'm curious when I see brands and I, I'll use Smith's as an example. I have wanted to buy an Everest from the shop. Since I became familiar with the watch, I have been up, like everything primed, ready to hit buy at whatever four o'clock in the morning on a Sunday, my time, to be able to buy that watch, and I've never been able to. At, I don't know, there's 600 bucks, 700 bucks from Smiths, but you go secondary market, they're more than that. you're leaving money on the table and you're giving it to somebody else. They're making money on your watches. Just produce more.
Everett Yeah. And I'm no one to say what, what any brand owner should do with their brand, but it does seem, you know, like there's room, like, okay, people really, really want this thing. Maybe I can incrementally increase the quality of the good, which is also going to increase the price, but then I can regulate that supply and demand. I'm going to make more money, uh, as an owner, I'm going to make a better product. You know, unless you just genuinely believe like, it doesn't make sense to make this nicer. I don't need a nicer movement. Like this is, this is exactly the watch I want to do. You know, it seems like there's a criticism to be had there. Like, we'll just make a nicer watch and sell it for a little bit more money. So you can equalize that supply and demand. That's bad for the consumer that wants to buy that watch at 600, 700 bucks. If all of a sudden that watch is now a $2,000 watch. It's bad for that consumer that wants that low price point, but is it maybe better for the consumer at large? I don't know. Just me getting philosophical with economics.
Andrew Just make more. Just make more.
Everett Just make more watches. That's really hard to do, though. Oh, boy. Alpina. I don't like Alpina as a brand. It's not even that I don't like them.
Andrew Do you don't like their font?
Everett Well, I don't love their font. It's just that I don't find them to be... All of the watches they make, I'm like, there's a different watch that I like better.
Andrew You know what I mean? In some instances. What's the one that they have?
Everett It's like their whole catalog. I'm like, yeah, well, I would buy that, but I'd rather buy this. Um, so you, you know, they're, they're Alpiner. I know it's a no, it's an, it's a no from me, dog. Um, I realized that they've got great history. I realized that they are, uh, a maker of really fine watches, but just, there's nothing that they make that I'm like, Yeah, that's the watch that looks like that that I want to buy, I guess.
Andrew Yeah, I kind of feel yet because they're there. My favorite watch that they make is the is the Heritage Curry. The the rectangle.
Everett Sure. Yeah, I think we talked about that on the show.
Andrew We've talked about it a couple of times. But I think fears makes one I like better. Fears makes one in the same zone, right? This is seven. This one's eighteen hundred bucks. I think I think the fears version of this is. gosh, like 2,500 bucks. Like it's not well.
Everett And, and, you know, like, uh, also if I'm going to buy that watch, I might be looking at a, I might be looking at a tank or, or a Santos or, or whatever. Right. Um, you know, you can get a tank, a large tank for 3,400 bucks. Right. So three grand, uh, anyway, all that to say, all that to say, they've just released what they're calling the Heritage Automatic at Geneva Watch Days. So this week has been huge because of Geneva Watch Days. I don't know if we mentioned that in our... Oh, we didn't, but that's okay. So this is a three-handed automatic. It's actually two three-handed automatic watches, this Heritage series. They are, I believe, identical cases, which is a round case with sort of square or, you know, square wire lugs. They're not wire lugs. They're square lugs. Yeah. Um, with this distinctly vintage styling, uh, and two different dials. So one of these is like a sort of an art deco sector dial that's got a cream center section and a, and a, uh, circular brushed silver, Uh, and the other is more of like just a traditional Arabic numeral sector dial with a really terrific font. Um, man. Oh, okay. These are not anything crazy, but they're both just good. They've got a, a brand caliber that what they're calling the AL520 automatic movement. It's a no date movement. They're just time. Um, I think that these are SW 200 architecture, which does that mean 2824 architecture? I don't know. Um, solid case back 19 millimeter lugs, which some people might not love.
Andrew Some people like us will bitch about whatever though. Um, I think once you get black, a black leather strap that you like for this, it never comes off.
Everett 38 millimeters, 10.15 thick, including a box shaped sapphire crystal with AR. Uh, they've got this really sort of tight and tidy bezel, a great looking, I would say vintage looking crown without actually being vintage. It almost looks like pop metal, like a pop metal crown, but it's not. It's obviously a machined milled crown. Um, 30 meters of water resistance, whatever, whatever. Um, it, it does have a threaded case back, but I don't see how you get it open. It doesn't look to me like there's a way to get a tool on there. Um, this looks like a rendering, but it's not a, uh, it's not a snap case back. It's a threaded case back yet. You might be right. That might just be a, uh, something they left off the render, which would be funny. I really like this watch, Andrew.
Andrew It's, it's good. I, I'm not a huge fan of that art deco two tone dial. That's just something that doesn't typically work for me, but this cream kind of fieldy is, is good. Uh, I think if you, if you put me in a, at the same price point, if you say, khaki or this, this is the pick every day.
Everett You know, they're not cheap, right? 1,700 bucks. These are 1,800 bucks. And you know, with what's essentially an SW 200. I'm thinking like, is Laurier an option? You know, also perhaps for your tank watch. I think Laurier makes some stuff that might be interesting. They don't make anything quite like this. but similar vibe on their Astra, um, or perhaps the, the Rambler, um, you, you know, there are other watches that do something, lots of other watches that do something similar, but this one caught my eye.
Andrew Cause they look, they just look good. Yeah. They, they, they nailed it.
Everett Yeah, I think that's right. They did nail it.
Andrew Uh, there's nothing you don't need. They didn't, they didn't go like, the extra mile on design ideas. They kept really simple, very vintage watch. Yeah, these are, these are good. The art deco I can pass on. I don't, I've never liked that two tone metallic with a mat.
Everett I do kind of like it, but I, I, I, it is definitely a, uh, it's a thing. It's Vegemite. Yeah. Um, Andrew, we probably have time for, Two more watches? Do you think we can get there with two more?
Andrew Yeah, we definitely can. So there is, and I'll be quick with this one, because it's just a fun release from G-Shock. They are doing a kind of celebration of their brick wall collection. And this is a callback to the kind of famous brick design on their dials. There is a 5600 and a Casio that are being decorated on their dial with these rainbow kind of, um, great gradient. Is that the word I'm looking for? Yep. Graduated, uh, rainbow bricks on the dial and they're just fun, right? This is, this is one of the 10,000 G shock skews that now exist. Uh, there's not a whole lot to talk about besides, um, it's a fun new color way and it's the same price as always. So now the Casio has, Fifteen thousand and three skews.
Everett Andrew, how long ago was it that I said I don't like the Cassie Oak? Was it last week? Maybe. I did buy a Cassie Oak.
Andrew I know. I know you did. After you were talking all kinds of shit about selling the farm.
Everett Well, I still am going to sell the farm, but it was kind of an impulse buy.
Andrew It's the it was last week we were talking shit on the Cassie Oak.
Everett Yeah, yeah, well, I don't think I was really talking shit, but it was just like it's not for me that the case doesn't work. I bought the virtual world Casio, just the standard fare. I actually saw it in person at a store and I was like, yikes, this is so much better. And it's terrific. I'm not wearing it tonight. I'm sorry about that.
Andrew Are you going to get the steel, like the Ollie steel? No, absolutely not. Conversion case. Cause I, I have that, the, the steel conversion for the 5600 and really like it.
Everett I, I don't think I will. No, I, I don't have any interest in that. Um, I actually really like how light it is. It just feels like it is 99 bucks. You know, you don't get any solar, you don't get any anything. I mean, it's really just basic. And actually, the 2100, I hate the way you set the time. It's my first ever analog G-Shock. And so setting the time, I did not like that. With that said, the way the watch wears, once I got it set, it wears so nice. Very similar to the 5600. You'd think it's really a bigger watch than the 5600, but yeah. Anyway, so just, yeah, that's an aside.
Andrew Got one. You didn't get the rainbow bricks, though.
Everett No, no. I just got the basic B2100 virtual world, which is very Tron, very Tron. It's got like purple text on the on the bezel and like a teal purple. Oh, yeah. Anyway, it's it's great. We have to. of course talk about Christopher Ward this week. We ought to. So Christopher Ward has released a new C60, a new C60 Trident called the Lumiere, which is a anthropomorphic candlestick, turns it out.
Andrew And, you know, inspired a lot of watchmaking.
Everett So what this is, is an all tiny, all titanium, tinadium?
Andrew Tinadium is actually the fancy way to say it.
Everett All tinadium, chronometer certified dive watch with a helium escape valve, with unsurprisingly a little bit extra in the Lumiere category. They're saying five times more luminescent than regular Trident watches. I That feels like a claim to me that is... I mean, these are, I think, bricks of loom. They are literally bricks of loom. Yeah, you're right about that.
Andrew I still think that... It's not loom applied. It's a brick of loom dropped on the dial.
Everett I want to read the small print behind that 5X claim, but I'll leave it at that. So grade two titanium, we were just talking about this grade two versus grade five. Christopher Ward, when they put their money where their mouth is, it's with grade five. Just saying, I don't know if that's good or bad. Again, not a metallurgist. This is a 41 millimeter dive watch at 10, eight thick with a light catcher case, which means that it wears, it wears again, the light catcher case, watch spanks. This thing is going to wear like probably the thinnest dive watch on earth. Yes. Uh, 48 millimeter, 47, nine lug to lug. And they, these things really wrap. So this thing is going to fit.
Andrew Yeah, these lugs curve down so hard.
Everett Every single wrist. We've still got male end links, but I don't think that matters given the way this case is shaped. No, it does matter. Do better. Yeah, I think that's going to work though. Yeah, why not just make it female? I don't know. Kind of a satin brush surface on this. Like kind of a big polished bevel flank. And and then the crown guards are bolt on. So this has this like really like an upmarket. Aesthetic to it, a really thin coin edge bezel, the bezel sort of tapers down or flows down. So instead of being a real square upright, everything that light catcher is all about creating that illusion of thinness. I don't think it's much of an illusion. It's really is that thin. 300 meters water resistance. If you are in the market, you've got a helium escape valve, uh, big giant blocks of loom everywhere. When I first saw this, I thought it was a little cartoony. I still think maybe it is that, um, but I'm okay with it. My, I have one complaint, Andrew. Oh, I have one complaint. There is not a black dial here. In fact, all of the dials picture of a black dial.
Andrew No,
Everett That is a gray ombre dial.
Andrew Is it?
Everett Uh, the, the black dial is actually not black. It's a gray ombre. I want this with a black dial. Uh, that's, that's my only.
Andrew So I've been, I've only come prowling for a prospect dive watch kind of in this
Everett Like flavor. $2,500 range.
Andrew The price isn't really what I'm driving at. It's like, what, what do I want? Right. Uh, and I, without having worn one of these, but I've worn a C60, this puts up a fight against a Pelagos in my mind. Like, is this, like, do I want this more maybe? Because then that's when, that's when the price starts to be a, be a factor. It's half, it's about half the price.
Everett Yeah, well, but look, you're getting full titanium. You're getting all the pro specs. You've got their debut of the three link Bader bracelet, which has a great six and a half millimeter taper. Finally. I gotta think Mike took what we said to heart.
Andrew I think everyone was saying it. We were just one of the few people that got to say it to his face and record it.
Everett I mean, really, Andrew, uh, this is a prospect diver. Like you said, to the extent you want one, this thing is about as legit as you can get. Okay.
Andrew So pricing, I think we're looking at 2300 bucks or 2400 bucks on titanium bracelet. Yeah. Which is great. Yeah. Cause a Pelagos brand new box. You're looking at, Oh, it's at 5,400 ish. 5,000 in the zone, you know, twice as much. Yeah. And you know, obviously there, there are, there are going to be differences between the Pelagos and a C60. There's not like, I'm not saying these two are equal watches, but for my purposes and what I'm looking for, I don't know, man, this is like, this is coming from behind and maybe, maybe taking a lead here.
Everett Well, the biggest difference is going to be probably the movement. Um, This is a 300-1, which is a fine movement.
Andrew But it's still a COSC-certified movement.
Everett That's right. A chronometer grade 300-1, full titanium everywhere. I mean, this watch is really terrific. I do think that the styling of the C60 from that top-down look is a little dated. And I'm just going to say it. I hate the font on the bezel. Weird. Those are subjective things. So give me a full black dial. Give me a better bezel font. And I'm like, this is it. This watch is fucking it.
Andrew These bricks of loom are something else. These markers. Globolite. There can't be anything but loom in those globs. And they're not globs. They're tight. They're there. No, that's what it's called. Globolite. I know. But I'm saying globs of loom. They're not globs. They're they're tight. Like milled bricks.
Everett Milled bricks of loom plots. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. This this thing's terrific. So these are available now. You can buy them today. I think a pretty interesting release. Definitely one of the more exciting releases of the week. Andrew, there's one more watch. There's one more watch. Which is the one? Tudor. Speak of the devil. Tudor released a boutique only Tudor Black Bay chronograph. A little bit of a redheaded stepchild in the Tudor family, although a pretty cool watch. They released a blue boutique version. Tudor famously drops blue watches from time to time. They made blue great again. They, they dropped their Tudor chronograph, which is a really, really excellent chronograph. Um, you know, with screw down crown, sort of the classic, like, Daytona sort of, but also Dive Watch. Anyway, screw down, screw down pushers. They dropped this in blue and it's gorgeous. It really is. Unsurprisingly. The blue is pretty good. It's gorgeous. The specs and technical details are unchanged. That means it's a 41 millimeter case, 14-4 thick. 50 millimeters of water resistance, or excuse me, 50 millimeter lug to lug.
Andrew I was like, there's more than 50.
Everett There's every bit of 300 here. 200 meters of water resistance. You've got a Jubilee bracelet. Inside is the MT5813. I'm not super familiar with that movement, but it's a four Hertz automatic column wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch. I'm reading that it's based on a Breitling B01, which I guess that makes sense. Yeah, these things are 5,600 bucks, 5,675, and they're available at boutiques worldwide.
Andrew It's like they're trying to recreate the magic of the Blue Bay 58 from five years ago. They're like, we could just make it blue.
Everett Or maybe they're just like, this is a really sensical decision for us in 2024. How did it not already exist? I love the bezel on this thing. The bezel on this thing is just terrific. The whole watch is perfect.
Andrew Like if, if this was, yeah, I can get down with one of these.
Everett I don't think that the black Bay chronograph is the best at anything. Uh, previously you could get these in either a white dial, like a white Panda or a black Panda. Um,
Andrew I don't know that Tudor anything is the best at anything. Tudor is just like absolutely very good at what they do. They're not going to be the gold medal. Yeah. And they're certainly not going to be off the podium.
Everett I do think this one's the most aesthetically pleasing of all of them. I mean, that blue is terrific.
Andrew So this blue of the chronographs. Yeah. Just their whole, I was like, I don't know.
Everett No, no. I mean of the Black Bay chronograph. This is the, this is the first one I've seen that I was like, Oh yeah. Um, that's, that's the only, that's the last one that I feel like I needed to talk about. There's a couple more on the list here. I think we can call it though. Andrew, other things, what do you got?
Andrew So my other thing, uh, very much like I talked about last week, my whole world has been consumed by preparing for and now having a dog, which means I don't do anything else. I've been reading books, been watching videos, Trying to train my kids on how to like not untrain the things that I'm trying to teach this dog. Uh, so I don't have a real other thing other than a puppy is so much fun. This is the first time. So like I said, we had a really traumatic puppy incident. Um, gosh, like 12, 13 years ago. Uh, so it's the first time we've gotten a true puppy since then and it has been just fantastic. All the work you expect, all the love you expect. It has been such a joy. And I'm, that's my other thing. It's just how fun it is to have a, like all of my energy refocused in, in like this single direction, puppy proofing everything and learning all the things like really obsessively learning all the things. Uh, and that's, that's what I've been doing. Puppy life.
Everett Well, I will say I met Doug. Doug's terrific. Your Doug's pretty awesome. That's all I have to say about that. All right. Andrew, my daughter's 12, going on 13. She is very, very smart. She's inquisitive. She's got... Sick burns. She does have sick burns. She's got a pretty, I would say a pretty developed taste in art, and I don't mean necessarily visual art, but everything, right? Music. Creation. Creation, right? And it's pretty nuanced, and she's not always really good at explaining what she likes, but it's been really fun. It's been really fun to engage with her when we figure out a point of connection in that world. Um, and that happens a lot. I'm not suggesting that it's, it's infrequent, but, um, we, we had the house, just the two of us for a few days, uh, this last week. And on the first night she said, well, I want to watch a movie, but I want to watch a movie. That's interesting. Maybe a little scary. Um, but that's like big, I can't remember what, what term she is, but just like something that's like advanced. I was like, okay, let me think about that. We were out and about. And I was like, let me think about it. That's a kind of a big ask. Right. That's right. Um, and, and so I was like, you know, I was like, do we like maybe Hitchcock or, you know, and then it just came to me. I was like, no, we should watch the Jordan Peele, what I'm calling the horror trilogy. That's not a real thing. It's not actually a horror trilogy, but the three Jordan Peele horror movies that came out in the last decade or so. So that is that is Get Out, Us and Nope. And and I haven't seen Us. I've seen the other two. So I suggested this to her and she was game. And so we started with Us, actually, which of the three was my on on my first set of viewings. You know, I've watched all these movies twice. in the past and of the three us was my least favorite. Um, but she wanted to start there. She said, I think that's the one I want to start with. And I say, yeah, of course. So is that chronological? It's not, no. So they came out, get out us. Nope. Yeah. Um, but we started with us and two things quickly about us. One, I liked it more than I remembered liking it. In fact, I think it might be my favorite of the three. Um, but it was just, Terrific. And she really liked it. It's a little scary. Like there are a few scenes that are like viscerally, like make you uncomfortable, scary. It's funny. So we, we, we watched it, we talked about it. We, you know, there's a lot going on in that movie. And then we watched Get Out. Also a lot going on. And then we finished with Nope, which I think Nope is the most beautiful of the three. It's definitely the slowest. It's the most plotting, but it's probably the most interesting story. It's definitely the most sort of, uh, avant-garde of the three. And it was her least favorite. Um, but we watched all three. We talked about them. We like, you know, not like real high level, but somewhat like medium high level, like some shit, some questions. And I like had to like look them up, you know, like, uh, let me, let me look and see what people are saying about this anyway. It was so much fun. It was so much fun to like, like have a plan, um, and have the plan be just a little bit more than casual viewing. Right. We're, we didn't like teach a film class on these or anything. Um, but like have that like experience be a little bit, it was really cool to do this with my 12 almost 13 year old daughter. Um, it was just a really, really fun experience.
Andrew And to watch a movie. trying to view it through the eyes of the, of the storyteller rather than through the eyes of the audience is, yeah, isn't really interesting exercise for a kid.
Everett I think that's right. Yeah. I mean, I, I do, I think it's probably the first time she's engaged with film in this way. Um, it was just a cool experience to do it with her and to like have her want to do it with me, you know, like that's a, that's a great,
Andrew lineup of movies. Totally. Totally. And for that, cause that's a, that's, I don't know where I would have gone with that.
Everett Ask, you know, like I said, I had, there was a, my brain kind of went into a bunch of different directions and nothing quite felt right. Although I do think it would be fun to do a Hitchcock.
Andrew Hitchcock would be fun. I think one of my like favorite, holy fucking shit. Movies like that is the first saw cause it's this, like it's, it can be viewed as just a slasher, but like the story itself and like the, the idea behind why Jigsaw is doing what he's doing is like kind of beautiful, but like told through this like absolutely terrible manifestation of like what he's trying to accomplish. Sure.
Everett Uh, and then, you know, in the end when the dude just gets up and walks out, I'm like, yeah, no, there's, there's a lot of, you know, and they don't have to be horror or whatever. Right. But anyway, Anyway, that's it. That's my other thing. Just watching that series of movies with my quickly maturing young daughter was really fun.
Andrew That is fun. I might watch Nope tonight.
Everett I got to tell you, man, I think that movie is so like sneaky, scary. Mm hmm. Like you almost you almost have to be like thinking about it to be scared, but then once you like start thinking about it, then it's like really unsettling. And there were a few jump scares in it. Um, and if you like really like, like surface level unsettling scenes, but the, the most sort of like surfacy unsettling scenes are actually kind of red herrings or, or, or McGuffins.
Andrew They absolutely are.
Everett Um, you know, the, the actual scary parts of that movie are, like pretty nuanced and like require a little bit of like, uh, you can't be scrolling on your phone to get that the full experience. So anyway, cool movies, Jordan Peele, man, man.
Andrew Yeah. Who saw that coming?
Everett Right. The after Kim Peele. Yeah. Uh, terrific. I haven't seen black Klansman. Um, have you seen that movie? No. So you, you know, it's not, it's not rated as high as the three like horror movies. Um, it is certainly in the popular conversation, but I figure I like those three so much. I ought to give it a try.
Andrew Yeah. And I think he just, he tells stories from an interesting perspective.
Everett Yeah. Um, anything else you want to have before we, I think I'm out of things, shut it down for the day. Yeah. Well folks, uh, I'll take this moment then to thank you for joining us for this episode of 40 and 20 the watch clicker podcast do me a favor go to our website watchclicker.com that's where we post every episode of this podcast but also articles and reviews and other things that are mostly watch related you can check us out on social media either at watch clicker or at 40 and 20 underscore watch clicker we post photos and updates about what we're doing on the show and on the website if you want to support us and this We need your support. If we're gonna keep doing this forever, we need your support. You can do that at patreon.com slash 40 and 20. That's actually how we keep these wheels turning. And frankly, without that support, we wouldn't still be doing this. And yeah, other than that, don't forget to tune back in next Thursday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Bye-bye.