The Automatic Central Power Reserve (275)

Published on Wed, 31 Jan 2024 22:36:43 -0800

Synopsis

The podcast discusses various new watch releases and topics related to watches, including:

  • New limited edition watches from Bulova and Tag Heuer, with details on their designs, movements, and pricing. Tag Heuer's releases include a unique chronograph with a 30-minute timer and a tourbillon chronograph.

  • A new automatic chronograph from the brand Depencel, featuring intricate dial details inspired by 1970s F1 cars, priced affordably at $650.

  • Novelty releases from brands like Nomos and Longines, with Nomos introducing new black-dialed Orion watches and Longines reviving a 1950s watch with a unique power reserve indicator.

  • Divisive design choices from Bell & Ross with their skeletonized BR-03 Cyber Ceramic watch, which one host dislikes while the other appreciates the brand's avant-garde approach.

The hosts also discuss personal topics like one host's new mechanical keyboard, a briefcase from Mystery Ranch, and a Tiffany & Co. money clip purchased after some friendly ribbing.

Transcript

Speaker
Andrew Hello fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 in 20, the Watch Clicker podcast with your hosts, Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here, we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like.
Everett Everett, how are you? I'm doing really well. I, uh, I, I've had a busy week. We talked about it last week, but I had a, uh, jury trial that was planned that did, it did not go as planned. For them? Well, yeah, or for me. It didn't go as planned for anybody. It wound up working out really well for us. My client got the Grand Salami in pre-trial stuff, which is good. Yeah. So it was like a whole lot of energy. We didn't call a jury. Just spoiler alert, everybody, no jury was called. I did not get that experience. Still have never done a jury trial. Maybe next time. But, you know, at the end of the day, got the best possible result for my client, worked on the judgment this week. Yeah, that'll be in on Friday, and then it's an attorney fee statement, and yeah. Yeah, it was a full W. Except that he didn't gift you a watch. He did not gift me a watch. Yeah, there's a story there. So showed up to trial my client who I have talked on the phone, talked with on the phone three or four dozen times at this point. Uh, you know, the way my practice goes, we have, uh, these clients who we represent on an ongoing basis, uh, in different matters. And, and then every once in a while, something big will pop up. This is one of those clients. So I've known this client, we'll call him Andy for four years, five years. Um, but this is the first sort of big litigation I've done with him. And so I've talked to him, you know, a lot over the years, but have never met him in person. Oh, interesting. Yeah. This was the first time I'd ever met him in person. He's in Portland. We're in Eugene. And he looked just like I pictured him, uh, probably 70 ish seventies where I'd peg him and had a, I noticed right away. He's tall. He's probably like six, two, you know, maybe like 170 pounds, kind of wispy hair. And I noticed right away he's wearing this full gold black dial sub on his wrist. And I was like, easy to spot. Yeah. I was like, Andy, I like your watch. And he's like, yeah, I'm kind of into watches. And I was like, oh cool. And he was like, I noticed that you're wearing a Speedmaster.
Andrew And I was like, I was like, yeah, you are kind of into watches.
Everett And I was like, yeah, I am. He's like, you know, I always meant to pick one of those up. And I was like, oh, this is a guy that is into watches. Like someone who's always meant to pick up a Speedmaster is into watches.
Andrew And has some bling in his watch box.
Everett Yeah, probably is my guess.
Andrew If you're always meaning to pick up a Speedmaster, that's like a low level fun purchase.
Everett Yeah, that's right. And he wasn't talking, it wasn't a flex, you know, he's not a, he's not an ostentatious dude. That seems hard to believe talking about a fellow that's wearing a full gold sub, but not a particularly, he's just a 70 year old dude.
Andrew He probably paid $9,000 for that 20 years ago.
Everett Yeah, well, perhaps. And you know, he's wearing like a flannel shirt tucked into pleated dockers, right? This is a, he's a simple man that's got a bucket load of money in the bank. And good taste in watches.
Andrew I could never do full gold, but mad respect.
Everett I tell you, Andy pulled it off just fine. Good for him. How are you, Andrew?
Andrew I'm good. I got something in the mail today. I ordered a Keychron mechanical keyboard on Sunday. And I fully believe that the United States government should disband the postal service because I ordered a package on Sunday. Sunday afternoon, I got shipping information through DHL. It is now Wednesday and this came from China and arrived at my house today. If I put something in the mail today, it wouldn't make it to the post office for another week.
Everett Yeah, DHL is the shit.
Andrew I don't understand how they do it. They kill it, man. It like it arrived in Portland this morning. I cannot imagine that there is enough volume coming to Eugene from Portland that my package wasn't the only thing on that transport.
Everett You know, I think there is. I think that's the deal. I think DHL just has their logistics game is just good enough that they're able to spread that spread that net. It's crazy.
Andrew Yeah. So my keyboard came today and I spent, I don't know, an hour assembling it. I got a Keychron Q5 Pro. 96% because I like having a 10 key. And I like it. I'm very excited. I played with all of the RGB light sequences and I think I've settled on one. None. I won't be using it. Yeah.
Everett Uh, yeah, I don't have any RGB. You don't have it even on yours or you don't, you just don't use it. I do have it on mine. You know what? I do think it's actually on, but it is, I've got it set up so you can barely see it. I think there's a little bit of a pink cast.
Andrew I've turned it to pink and I found a setting that kind of, as you type it, uh, or, splashes out away from the key that you just struck. So I type pretty quickly. So it's just like a constant explosion of light all over the keyboard.
Everett Just too much for the people who care about this sort of thing. What type of switches did you go with?
Andrew I went with the Keychron K blue switches. I I'm going to type with it for a little while. I think I want a slightly more resistant switch. But I'm gonna type with it for a little bit. I might even try new keycaps before I change it. Because switches and keycaps are cheap for the most part.
Everett Yeah, ish, right? Yeah. And it's satisfying to change them.
Andrew Yeah. I mean, a new bin of switches is 20 bucks. Yeah. So I might do some experimenting. I'm gonna type with this for a little while and see how it goes. Sam hated it. She clicked it once and was like, I cannot. I couldn't even be in the same building as you listening to this sound.
Everett I said something very similar. Yeah, you didn't like, you don't like the click. I'm a, I'm a linear guy. Yeah. I'm a linear guy.
Andrew I'm going to do some experimenting. I mean, now, right. I have the board. That's the, that's the investment. The rest of it's just kind of like here and there.
Everett Well, and swapping switches is fun too. You know, like will, uh, I know runs linears for his letters and runs. Tactiles on his on his number pad. So Like he said switches are cheap. You can play with it. And you know, there's a lot of people that change switches Frequently, so yeah, you gotta find one you like I think I am gonna do that.
Andrew I think I want to change The number pad sooner rather than later. Mm-hmm Because I'm even I might even do like a full silent switch in the number pad Yeah, it's fun, man.
Everett Yeah, it's a beautiful keyboard. I like the color of your keycaps, too
Andrew Yeah, they're a good color scheme. It's like grown-up Legos.
Everett It is a lot. I asked you if you had lubed your switches. That's sort of like the next level. Like you'll sit down and watch a movie with your lubing station in front of you and take them all apart. I always have my lubing station in front of me. It's right next to the couch.
Andrew I've seen it many a time. Yeah. Box of tissues, lube station. Well, that's fun.
Everett Well, we're not here to talk about jury trials or brand new keyboards. Rather, we're here to talk about watches. We're talking about watches tonight. And this was a big week. We had the LVMH Watch Week. And so there have been some drops, man.
Andrew Yes.
Everett There have been some drops. And we're going to tell you about some of the things that we saw that caught our eye. We have a list of about 35 watches. I don't think we're going to get to all of them.
Andrew We probably won't. And that's okay. We, we rarely do. And I just close those tabs before I type the notes. Like it never happened. No one will ever know. So let me kick it off. Uh, I have a thing that I'd like to talk about in the way of the Bulova lunar pilot fitted with a four and a half billion year old Meteorite dial. That's a that's a lot of years. Many billions. So four and a half. Yeah. Billions. So this is the Belova lunar pilot that we're all familiar with. The one we don't like because it comes on a strap so it can never accept a bracelet.
Everett You know I'm not sure that that's true anymore. Did they change it? I think they may have changed it. I don't have a citation for that as I sit here today. If you know let us know, but I do remember hearing or reading that that's been fixed. See, I thought I dreamt it.
Andrew It's possible. Um, because that's a thing. That we had the same dream. Maybe. Um, this is a watch that I adore. I just can't wear it. It's, it doesn't work well with the shape of my wrist. All that being said, this is a special edition, complete with a meteorite dial, limited edition of 5,000 pieces. So they're going to be out there and available. $1,500. It has a commemorative case back commemorating Mr. Scott. The hell's his last name? Dave Scott? Yeah. Apollo 15? Yeah. Dave Scott of Apollo 15, uh, who famously wore the watch to the moon. So it's got an engraving of him on the case back.
Everett Yeah. Not only did he wear the watch to the moon, the, the watch was his backup and it wound up becoming his primary as backup sometimes do.
Andrew Yeah.
Everett So, piece of space history, you know, we've talked about this watch a lot. It's obviously a killer watch. I frankly think it's underappreciated. There's some reasons for that. And I don't, I don't make light of those reasons. You know, I do think that there's, uh, an aspect of this, of this watch and certainly the way it's been marketed that, that bull above, it feels a little bit like they're leaning real hard into a history that they were kind of a bit player in. But, you know, smoke them if you got them right.
Andrew Lean into it. I mean, they were in the competition for it. They did make it to the moon. They just weren't chosen by NASA.
Everett I love the design of this watch. The pushers, I think, are just absolutely stunning. I got to tell you, I don't love them. I don't love the meteorite dial. It's not my thing. And at a at a what a $500 A $500 premium over. $700. Yeah, $500 over the standard limited edition price and like $600, $700 over any other Bulova lunar pilot. It's like, okay, it's a little bit of a tough pill to swallow, but. Yeah. It's four and a half billion years in the making you guys.
Andrew Yeah. And I can also do without a meteorite, but it's a cool release. It's a cool commemorative release. And if this is your jam, this is the one.
Everett Andrew Tag Heuer is a company we talk about increasingly.
Andrew Yeah, because they are hot fire right now.
Everett And they've had a big week. So they released a watch from the catalog. They re-released a watch from the catalog. This is a watch that they actually released. This is a catalog piece that they released a version of a few years back with Hodinkee. But given their new platform in the glass box, they've decided to do this thing up for themselves. The watch is the Tag Heuer Carrera Dado Chronograph, which is a watch I'm not super familiar with. What we've got here is a really dark teal, almost like an emerald teal, very dark teal, you know, depending on the And it's like a radial brushed dial. So depending on, is that radial or is that, I can never get that right. It's got circles. The brushing is done in a circle. Yeah, it's radial. Around the dial. And you know, it's of a particular sheen and color where the dark portions of the glow are black and the light portions are this really rich, lovely teal. stunning dial. Um, this is also different than any other chronograph I've ever seen. So if you're familiar, just apologize, uh, in advance. But what this is is a minute, an hour time watch. So there's no running seconds. You don't have a time, a seconds hand that's attached to the time. Instead, you, you have a chronograph with, It's a single a single sub dial chronograph and the the sub dial only tracks 30 minutes. There's a second hand that's attached to the chronograph and that's your central seconds and then a 30 minute timer on the right side at three o'clock. Outside of that the dials open which is beautiful with the exception of a nine o'clock right date window which this watch is sort of famous for. Um, all of this in the lovely, lovely glass box platform, which is 39 millimeters. Uh, I think it's 13, they say 13.86 millimeters thick. So, uh, pretty specific. And that includes the big glass box.
Andrew Um, it's almost like they went down, they added another decimal point of measurement to be like, It's as big as you think it is. Yeah, that's right.
Everett It sure is shit, not 13.9 though. This is not an approximation. Yeah, so let's get it out of the way. This is a freaking stunning watch. It's not an inexpensive watch, but I don't think anybody would expect it to be. 6400 Swiss francs is the price I'm seeing here, which, you know, I think that's within the realm of what you'd expect. Yeah. Comes on a black leather, a black croc strap. And, um, it's just so interesting. I think that's the thing that I'm really excited about is how interesting it is. It's a TH20-07 movement, which is an in-house, um, automatic hand winding, 28.8, 80 hour power reserve. with 33 jewels and a column wheel. So it's a single register column wheel chronograph that only displays a 30 minute and second, no fraction, no fractional seconds with an 80 hour power reserve and a column wheel that runs at 28.8 Hertz. Uh, wow. This is almost like a callback to not 28.8 Hertz, 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Andrew This is almost like a callback to a stopwatch, like a converted stopwatch into a wristwatch, like in that era of big ass pocket watches becoming wristwatches. This is cool. This is, it's different. It's gorgeous. It's well-executed. This is a neat release and Tag's doing some stuff right now. They might have been the most exciting brand of last year and are really setting the bar high for this year.
Everett Yeah. No, I think so. Certainly of the big brands. And, and I, I, I was on Reddit the other day and I saw a post, someone said something to the effect of the post was something to the effect of, you know, know this, I know this brand's not super popular, uh, around here or something like that. And I was like, you know, I just don't think that's true anymore. I think that the 90s and even early 2000s Tag Heuer disdain that was still it still existed when we when you and I were sort of cutting our teeth on watches. But I think at that point it was it was starting to turn. I think I think Tag Heuer's turned the page completely.
Andrew They have but they still going to shake some of the stank off. I think you're right. They're still They're still emerging from the shadow that they created for themselves in their weird pubescent era.
Everett Yeah, well, hard to call it pubescent given their history. But yeah, point taken.
Andrew Right. It was a really awkward time for them where they were doing weird stuff. And now they're doing really creative stuff. They're executing reissues really well. They're executing iterative releases really well. They're moving away from a quartz only existence. And it's cool. Yeah. We're going to have to also talk about not for the same length because because they did some other cool stuff. The same green same glass box platform with a tourbillon chronograph.
Everett Yeah.
Andrew And these are a little bigger. These are 42 millimeter Carrera chronograph tourbillons. They're a little more expansive. 23.5 Swiss francs, so not in our realm of ever gonna have, but I don't think any tourbillon is ever in my wheelhouse of gonna have. 42 millimeter case, 14.33 thick, 48.6 lug-to-lug. The caliber TH2009. It's based off of their O2T in-house movement. Automatic chronograph with tourbillon. COSC 28-8. 65 hours of power reserve. This is super fucking cool.
Everett Yeah, I mean it's essentially the same movement, but they've sacrificed 15 hours of power reserve for a tourbillon, I think is the math.
Andrew That's a reasonable sacrifice, I think.
Everett And at $24,000, this isn't crazy. I mean, this is well within the range of what we'd expect. It's one of the more, I would say this is one of the more affordable tourbillons on the market from a big brand. And yeah, it's just as gorgeous. Like you said, that same green.
Andrew I think it's the same green. I think so. It's the same green. It's just a different photographer who captured the light differently. But other than that, I mean, it's, it's, it's the career chronograph in the glass box platform with a tourbillon, not a whole ton to talk about besides the fact that they're now dropping a tourbillon.
Everett Yeah. It's a bigger case. I don't, it is. Are you, are we sure this is glass box? Yeah.
Andrew Green tag where career chronograph tourbillon glass box.
Everett There you go. Yeah, I'm seeing Tag Heuer career chronographed tourbillon. I'm not seeing the glass box. I don't know if they're calling this. Uh, yeah, they're saying that's right. You're right, Andrew. I'm sorry. Except for the fact that this new watch is part of the very popular glass box collection.
Andrew A hundred meters of water resistance.
Everett I mean, this is, this is cool. Yeah. And it's, it's a beautiful tourbillon. I don't know that, um, I've ever gotten excited about a tourbillon and I'm frankly, I'm probably not super excited by this. But this is one of the more attractive executions of a tourbillon I've seen. It does not hold up to like a Haute Horology, no, tourbillon, I can't imagine. I say this without a loop or having seen this, but in terms of a production tourbillon that's available for less than, you know, $100,000, it's doing some things.
Andrew Part of the technology of the tourbillon require it to be open worked, like an open heart? Or could you, like, really baller it up?
Everett Just do a, like a... A covered tourbillon? I'm sure you could, yeah. I don't see any reason why you couldn't. There's no reason why it couldn't be under the dial. Yeah. It might change the way it operated, but yeah, I don't think there would be a limitation. Like a like the tourbillon equivalent of a dead beats second.
Andrew Yeah, I'm not. I mean, tourbillons are kind of sorcery to me. They're not a topic that I'm.
Everett Yeah, we've talked about him a couple of times, but maybe we need to dive into some of these bigger complications at some point someday.
Andrew What do you got next, Andrew? Well, I just had that one, but we should probably talk about one last. Tag Heuer release in the way of the Diamond Carrera Date Plasma Diamant? Diamant? Diamant Guard. They are using lab grown diamonds in this. Now, the watch is ugly as sin and I hate it a lot, but I think they're introducing a cool thing and the way of experimenting with lab grown diamonds. I think that's a really neat industry to be exploring and a really neat technology to be exploring, which is why I'm talking about this affront because it is, I hate it. I hate it a lot. Um, what I don't hate though is, uh, experimentation with lab-grown diamonds. It's anticipated to be going for about 400,000 Australian dollars. So like eight bucks.
Everett That's how you know we read about this on Time and Tide. Yeah.
Andrew So it's, I think it's a, it's a cool thing that they're doing. Uh, I, it's, I, I can't get over how unattractive it is to me though.
Everett You know, I probably don't agree with you about the degree to which this is ugly. I actually think it's really neat. Um, there's a couple of things on here that like actually kind of blow my mind. Um, so the, the shield is actually a yellow lab grown diamond, uh, which I think is pretty stunning. Um, and I believe Andrew, correct me if I'm wrong, The crown. There's also a yellow lab-grown diamond. It's actually a yellow lab-grown diamond, which is... What? I mean, it's... The crown is made of a diamond. It's super cool. I actually don't think it's super ugly. It's 36 millimeters, which to me suggests that Tag Heuer has made this most likely for Kim Kardashian, a woman. Yeah, that's right. Um, but this, like the dial looks cool and interesting. You know, I'm not a huge textured dial guy and this is a very textured dial. Uh, you've got these baguette diamonds. I mean for a diamond watch, I don't, I don't hate this thing. I think it's really neat. I mean there's an execution here. I don't hate it. I'm probably, it's not something that I'm going to think about until it's on my wrist, but.
Andrew Yeah. So the dial is a single piece of polycrystalline made from 2.9 carats of diamond. So that's why it's texture. It's diamond dust. Yeah.
Everett It's like crystals. The crystals have actually like formed on the.
Andrew Yeah. It, it's neat technology and I think it's something that it'd be cool to see expanded on and become accessible.
Everett Not just in the watchmaking industry, but you know, I did notice and something that's, that'll be important to you. If you guys are thinking about this, um, it does have 50 meters of water resistance.
Andrew That's a bummer. Isn't diamond like the hardest thing in the world? Like why, how do you, yeah, I, I think it's a really cool thing they're doing. tags on fire coming out in January.
Everett Yeah. I saw a couple of watches that interested me. Um, well I saw a watch, a couple of posts about a watch that interested me this week. Uh, and it was a brand I'd never heard of. Andrew, have you ever heard of Depenchel or Depencel? The pencil? I'm going to, I'm probably messing it up. Depencel? It is a company I'd never heard of. It's a French company. And they've actually got a pretty decent catalog. I saw these. And they make sort of racing inspired watches. I checked out their website. A lot of their stuff is really pretty attractive and interesting. I saw it this week. a number of posts about a new mechanical chronograph they've released. So they released a racing style Depencel Allure manual chronograph. This is a Segal movement, which, you know, very, very popular mechanical chronograph movement, column wheel, a movement we've talked about 8 billion times on this show. If, if, if not, if not in a few months, uh, we've still talked about it a lot. And this thing is crazy. This thing is crazy. The reason it's crazy is not because of the movement. It's not doing anything really, uh, revolutionary with the horological aspects of it, but it's just got a really, for me, a really, uh, captivating dial. Uh, there's all these little, there's all these little details that suck me in. The more I look at the dial, the more I'm like, wait, what, what is that? So first I'm a sucker for fonts and the fonts on this thing are phenomenal. Absolutely phenomenal. So the tack meter, uh, the tack meter is perfect. Uh, The font, I mean, you've got this, you know, these, you've got a pulse meter, combination of orange and white fonts. The sub-dial fonts are great. It says Motor Racing Instrument at the six o'clock. It's a Bicompax chronograph. Motor Racing Instrument, that font is terrific. And then you've got all these little details. So the loom plots on the hour markers are, It's a, it's a Fotina. I'm, I don't love it, but it works. It works really, really well with this color way.
Andrew Yes. With the color scheme, the Fotina is really appropriate.
Everett And then you've got these black pad printed little, they're just, it's just little details. You just get closer to this thing and you're like, Whoa, look at that little detail. Oh, and look at that little detail. Oh, and there's this. Get to the crown, a relatively modern looking octagonal crown that's got like that anodized, that like cut and anodized ring in the middle that's, that's appears on watches. You kind of a modern feel for a relatively classic sixties looking. Um, shit dude, this thing's rad. 650 bucks.
Andrew Yeah. Well decorated movement. This is good. I saw these and immediately knew that you would be intrigued by them.
Everett Yeah, 1970s F1 car they say is the, um, is the inspiration. Dude, this thing's terrific. This is a really, really terrific ST 1901 at a really terrific price. And I'm, I'm here for it, man. Dave Penzel, check them out. There will be a link in the show notes. Also Google them. Also just go to, Oh, Oh, Oh. And the other thing is the plate on the, on the nine o'clock side, it's got a plate and it said screwed in plate. And I love that. I love that little detail. This and the ribbon chamfers look really well done. I just, I, you know, I'm, I'm thinking this watch punches way, way, way above its price range in terms of details.
Andrew Yeah. Yeah, I think you're right. The finishing on it looks phenomenal.
Everett Yeah. 39 by 45 and a half. Great size. 20 millimeter lugs, 13 millimeters thick. This thing's terrific.
Andrew Box sapphire crystal on it.
Everett Yeah, a good size box sapphire. And I believe that dimension includes that box sapphire crystal. This thing's going to work great.
Andrew Good job, guys. Yeah, well executed. What's up next for you? Oh, next up for me. Hmm. I know what I want to talk about. Choices. There's, there are many choices. So I want to talk about a brand that we, we don't often talk about that, but that is always intriguing to me. Nomos. Dang it. You took the one I wanted to talk about. Oh, well. Too bad, I took it because I picked it just now. So Nomos has added to the Orion Neomatic new black collection. They've got three iterations they've released. The typical, very modern, very minimalist Nomos dial design. On a matte black galvanized dial. Silver or gold accents or both, which is is the one that really intrigued me the most. So the what I'll call the third iteration. Has. A mixture of silver and black markers and hands or silver, gold and black. across the dial. It's perhaps the most color I've really ever seen for Nomos outside of the club campus, which is super colorful with three colors on it. But I saw this and I was like, oh my goodness. Small seconds. Great Nomos finishing. Gold font on the date wheel. Gold hands. Silver markers. This thing is cool. It looks very much like a fifties. This is, this is the watch. Uh, and I, I'm here for it. They are a little bit more expensive than I'm willing to go for them. 3,500 euros. The size on them is perfect because there's four sizes also. Or three sizes, excuse me. So the neomatic 396 is a 36.4 millimeter, 8.5 millimeters thick, 50 meters of water resistance, 3,000 euros. There's a neomatic 39, which is 38.5 millimeters, 8.7 thick, 3,100 euros, and then a 41. which is 40.5. So they're selling themselves a little short. They could have probably called that the 40. Three great sizes. I think, I think the 40 is definitely too big for me, but the 38 and a half and 36 and a half are such a phenomenal size for this minimalist design. I like them.
Everett Yeah. These are, these are actually really, really, uh, for any other brand, people would be like, what are you talking about? No most, but no most doesn't have a lot of watches that look like this. You know, I think no most is most famous for their, their silver dialed watches. And in fact, I think when no most was announced back in the nineties, I can't remember when early nineties, I think they had four models, all of them being that silver dial with the blue, with the blue accent. And this this was one of them. I do believe that the Orion has not changed hardly at all in that entire time. They've obviously expanded it to have multiple sizes and they've released these and all of it. But no most releases a black dialed watch and it's like hold up. Yeah. Which is so bizarre. You know they made decisions here. I always like it when companies make decisions. except when they make decisions I don't like. So these have, there are three of them, like you said, the three sizes. So it's what, 36, 39. And 41. And 41. And those are each a little bit smaller than those dimensions by like half a millimeter. But because of the Orion's huge dial, it's like 99.8% dial. And because of those really long lugs, I think these all wear bigger. Oh, yeah, they're going to be big pancakes. So like the 36, I think actually wears or the 37, I think wears a lot closer to a 38 or 39. With that said, each of the sizes, so the size I want, like I think probably the 36 and a half is the one I'd want. It's got gold markers and white hands. Then you've got the 39, which has got all white, it's white markers, white hands. And then the 41, which is the, you know, probably the best looking one, the one I would never wear. Cause it's relatively giant has gold markers and gold hands. And that's the color way I want. So it's like, uh, dang it. No most give me what I want in what I want. You're right though, at 30, you know, 3500 ish for each of these, um, they're kind of steep, especially, you know, I think that there's this, I think that there's this like, what is Nomos doing for that money? However, they're in-house, they're immaculate, they've got this really sort of, you know, probably avant-garde isn't the way you describe this. This is a really traditional, simple Bauhaus with a modern twist. Um, Like Nomos is doing their thing. These are all like, I think that the 37 and the 39 are like under nine millimeters thick. Yeah.
Andrew They're both eight, eight, five and eight, uh, eight, five and eight, seven, respectively.
Everett And the nine and a half, even on the 41 with that, you know, we're talking about automatic watches. These are terrific. And, and, and the reason for the extra thickness on the 41 is you get a display case back.
Andrew Yeah.
Everett These are great, man.
Andrew They're good. I could, I'm not sure this would ever be in my lineup, but I, I would like somebody I'm around regularly to own one of these.
Everett And to be clear, these are just Orion pneumatics. But they're black. Yeah, this is, it's a terrific watch. I really, I really think they're calling these novelties, but I think that these are permanent. I think these are in the permanent catalog. These are new, new models that you're always going to be able to buy.
Andrew for a black dial to be a novelty. You know what they say. So maybe we're going to see some more black at a Nomos.
Everett Interesting watch I found this week and that you found as well. Caught my eye. It's a weird one, Andrew. Oh, I know what we're going to talk about. It's a weird one. It's a watch from Longines. And it's a revival of a 1950s watch. And I'm going to I'm going to say I'm going to give a two word review of this watch. Four words. Absolutely beautiful. But weird. Yeah. So this is a revival of the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. So power reserves. kind of like a disregarded complication, I think. There was a time in watches where a power reserve was incredibly valuable. And I think that today, power reserves can be valuable in the context of a mechanical watch. I am wearing a Speedmaster, Andrew, right now, that at about two o'clock today, said 1230. I looked down and it said 1230 and I said, I know that's not right.
Andrew Because it had said 1230 since you put it on that morning?
Everett No, because it had said 1230 when it lost juice at 1230. Oh, okay. And so I'm not suggesting that the Speedmaster should have a power reserve, although I do think there are Speedmasters with power reserve, but in a mechanical watch, just wearing it doesn't do anything. So if I could look down and be like, Oh, I'm getting a little low and give it the old click, click, you know, I've been wearing this watch for the last three or four days, you know, so I'd wound it and I just forgotten to wind it. Um, in an automatic watch, I think it's less compelling. Actually, Will proposed this idea to us a few months ago in a text thread. And I was like, yeah, he's a hundred percent right. Power reserve in an automatic watch makes no difference to me. Power reserve on a mechanical watch I can get
Andrew on a mechanical, and I can even get behind it in a quartz watch.
Everett This is not a mechanical watch. This is, well, it is a mechanical watch, but it is an automatic mechanical watch. And so it seems like a bit of an odd decision to me. With that said, the power reserve is, it's a central power reserve, as you may have imagined from the name, is super weird and neat.
Andrew It is so well executed. Because often power reserves, I hate the fan style power reserve indicator somewhere hidden on the dial. I find them super unattractive and distracting. This is the best executed power reserve indicator I have ever seen.
Everett It's cool. I don't know if it's the best, but it's maybe the most interesting. You've got, yeah, it's really cool. I fucking dig this thing. I'm all about it. And then moving on from that, moving on from that, the watch is super perfect. It's got a 12 o'clock date. Some people love it. Some people, actually, I think most people hate it.
Andrew I love it. I'm here for it in this execution.
Everett And it looks so good. All your markers are gold. It's this white, I actually think these come in three colors.
Andrew I think they come in a gray, Anthracite black and white. I think it's closer to a cream. Yeah, it's like an ivory. Champagne is what they're calling it.
Everett Rose gold on the anthracite. Stainless or white gold or whatever on the black dial. But this cream with the yellow gold markers and hands.
Andrew Ooh wee. Ooh wee. Yeah, I'm pretty torn between the black and the white dial.
Everett And broken record tonight, but good fonts, Longines.
Andrew Yes. Good fonts. And here's the real exciting part. 3,600 francs for this. So we're looking at sub $4,000.
Everett That works. It's a lot of money for a Longines. But that works. It's got a weird movement. So this is a proprietary automatic movement based on ETA or made by ETA because it's launching. 25.2 vibrations per hour. I have, I don't think I've ever seen a 25, a 25.2 thousand or 25,200 vibration watch. 72 hours of power reserve. Central seconds, date and power reserve indicator on two rotating disks. Yeah, so the inside actually rotates. As it gains and loses power, that internal disc rotates. There's two discs and they rotate in opposite directions to wind down your power. Or as the power winds down.
Andrew I wonder if that's why they had to reduce their beat rate.
Everett Maybe, yeah. I gotta imagine it's got something to do with it. Yeah. Because that's a strange beat rate. But also it's beautiful. I mean, Longines does really elegant watches at this, you know, Longines is doing things like, I don't want to, I don't want to compare them to anybody, but I think of Longines style as sort of that Jaeger LeCoultre style, that like refined business luxury style. But they're doing it for, fraction of the cost. Every single release I've seen from La Jeanne in the last three or four years, I'm like, yeah, it's fucking rad.
Andrew Yeah.
Everett That's rad. This one's no different. That's rad. That's what I say to myself. I see it and I go, that's rad.
Andrew I like it.
Everett Me too. Great proportions. The dial to bezel to crown proportions are great. You know what this actually feels like to me? I know that this is a revival of a 50s Longines watch, but this feels to me like a 1960s Seiko watch. That's what this feels to me like, like a grand Seiko from the late 60s, early 70s. It kind of has that feel. It's just got a vibe to it, right?
Andrew Yeah.
Everett And good fonts, that automatic font at the six o'clock. I don't know what that is, but it is gorgeous.
Andrew I like it. What's next? Next up, uh, you know, I, I love the BRO three. Um, I love it a lot. Me too. And then more often than not, Bell and Ross does things that I'm like, man, I just, I just don't get it.
Everett I know what you're going to talk about.
Andrew So we're, I want to talk about the Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic. So this is a all ceramic case, BR-03, skeletonized. It looks like it should belong to their like skull line.
Everett I think it's in the same line. Those are cyber skulls. I think the BR03 are cyber skulls, so this is obviously drawing parallels.
Andrew There's no skulls on it, and I still hate it. I don't understand the connection point. The making of novelty watches and watches for people who wear grunt style, tap out, and what's the other brand?
Everett I don't I don't know.
Andrew I just I don't get it and I I'm really struggling to continue to like the BR-03 because I love it. It's one of the most comfortable wearing watches I've ever worn. And then they do things like this. I mean, look, you're doing cool enough shit and working with ceramic. Are you thinking the BR05 or the BR03? The 03 and the 05. I love them both. Okay.
Everett I think the 03 is amazing and I think it's terrific. I didn't find it particularly comfortable, but I know what you're saying.
Andrew I really liked them both. So either way, they've released a new skeletonized watch that it just doesn't make any sense. Stop doing weird shit. Stick with the cool shit.
Everett You know me, Andrew, more is more. This is not a watch for me at all. I agree with you, super weird, super ugly. It's sort of a sapphire sandwich thing, which is completely, you can see through it, fully skeletonized everything. But yeah, you're right, Andrew. BRO3 does, they've got like, you know, looking at the BRO5, for instance, highly utilitarian looking watch, right? And then they do things like their classic, like really sort of straightforward pilot watches. And then they've got the BR05, which is this really elegant steel sports watch. And then they've got this, they've got this like, like this Cyberline, for instance, which are these hyper futuristic, like really edgy, avant-garde, tap out, It feels to me like it's classier than that, but I don't know who this is for. I don't know exactly who this for. It's really cool. It's really cool. And if the style is attractive to you, I can see you buying this and, and having one of the coolest watches in any room you're going to be in. It's not cheap, but it's not expensive. 13, six euros for something that is really out there.
Andrew And limited to 500 pieces.
Everett Yeah, that's right. I mean, this is in the realm of, like, watch purchases that a wealthy, normal person might make. But yeah, I'm with you. The style is not something I'm interested in. But I also am like, you do your thing, Bell and Ross. It's the fucking weirdest company in watches. They do all sorts of shit. They, yes, they do so much stuff like boring pedestrian watches all the way to the weirdest shit you can find.
Andrew Yeah. Yeah. I, I saw it and I was like, God, why?
Everett Andrew, we're running, we're, we're, we're getting long in the tooth here. Is there anything else here that you want to talk about? I think we can, I think we can wrap it up. Well, then I'll, I'll ask you, I'll ask you a question. Other things, what do you got?
Andrew I have another thing. I talked briefly about it a couple weeks ago and said that I would be bringing it back around as another thing. So my other thing this week is the Mystery Ranch 3-Way 27 Briefcase. And the reason it's called a 3-Way is because it's designed to be carried or used in three ways. And the execution of it is terrific. So this is a briefcase that has two nylon handles on the top. It has a removable shoulder strap and it has stowable backpack straps. Now I got this bag because I am now I have to carry a computer to and from work. I have to carry like just my normal work junk to and from work.
Everett You're an office bitch.
Andrew And I need to be able to carry this not just into my office, but also when I'm wearing like 511s and boots going out into command posts for wildfires.
Everett An office bitch with first responder responsibilities.
Andrew Yeah. So, so a weird, a weird collision of those things. So, um, I had a shoulder bag. It was totally fine for just carrying to and from the office. It wasn't particularly attractive. It wasn't particularly functional. So I went, on the hunt. Now, uh, as I, as I've stated, I'm a huge mystery ranch fan girl. Um, I love their products. I love the company. Um, so I decided that I was going to go with mystery ranch. This comes in two sizes. It comes in an 18 liter and a 27 liter. I knew that 27 was going to be just a touch big. But I also knew that I wanted to be able to like carry all my work stuff and then like a change of clothes and like a hygiene bag and and stuff like that while I'm living out of a backpack it'd be nice to have like some comfort items in my in my briefcase that goes to and from my my workstation. So I get this bag and it's it I watched a bunch of videos on it and everyone kind of had the same opinions like this bag is phenomenal it's a little big but it's great super good storage in it. The dimensions on it are 12 inches by 17 and a half inches by 11 and a half inches. I wish that it was like 12 inches by 15 inches. It's just a touch too big. It's just like two inches wider than I would like it to be. But I know that cutting the volume virtually in half will make the bag too small and not serve my purpose. The functionality of all of the storage is really great. I absolutely dig this bag, even if it's a little too big.
Everett Yeah, it's terrific. No, you know, I saw it the other day and it didn't look to me to be excessively big. You know, I carried a full size 10 buck two to work for quite a while. And that's a, those are really big bags. Um, and, and there, there are just buckets too, which is the other, I'm not going to call it a problem, but it's the other sort of downside to that bag. Um, and that was a really big bag, but I was like, it was fine that your, uh, mystery wrench bag is quite a bit smaller. And, and so like, it didn't strike me as being like obscenely big. It is a big bag, but it looked, it's like, yeah, that's fine. You know? Um, but I picked it up and I was like, Oh shit, this is mystery ranch, man. This is so good. You just touch it and you're like, yep. I love that. You know, you'll see things on Amazon and you're like, Oh, that looks really nice. you know, maybe it's got big zippers or something. And I'm thinking that's going to be quality. And then you touch it, you're like, no, this sucks. This is the total opposite. You pick it up. And in fact, you'd show me the pictures and it looked kind of cheap from the pictures or it looked like my, my initial reaction was like, you know, that doesn't look like mystery ranch quality from the photos. And then as soon as I touched it, I didn't even have to touch it. I just needed to be like close enough to it. And I was like, Oh no, everything is. Perfect. It is like good bag materials are good bag materials. And you know, I'm the second you see you touch them and yeah, it's, it's a fantastic bag. I love it, man. You know what? I was playing with it the other day and I was like, dude, I have no need for this, but I want it.
Andrew So my, my favorite feature of it is it has the two main bag compartments, the one with your laptop sleeve and a couple, big just bucket pockets in there, a divider so you can put your notebook in. The middle pocket has a loop side of Velcro so you can put hook things on it into a big dump bucket pouch, a zipper pouch, and then a free floating, not free floating, a removable flexible zipper pouch. And then a luggage elastic cross piece so you can cinch some stuff down. The exterior pocket has the trademark V-shaped mystery ranch zippers with a quick release magnetic closure. So you just open up your magnet, unzip it with four really easily accessible little pouches with elastic and then a zipper pouch on it. So all of the stuff that I regularly access goes in that. I just open it up and then you just drop the lid and it magnets itself back up. You don't have to worry about zipping it back together.
Everett It's terrific. You showed me how it worked cause I was like starting to play with it and you're like, no, no, no, don't do that. Yeah. And you like came over and you pulled the thing and I was like, Oh, and then it snaps itself back closed. It was like the, you know, when someone's like, Oh, check this out. And they pull a book out and the door opens.
Andrew Yes. So they're not cheap. Mystery Ranch is not cheap. Uh, I got it off the Amazon.
Everett How much did you pay?
Andrew 200 bucks. Dude. Yeah. That's cheap for a bag. That's cheap. But it's all, it's also just a bag.
Everett No, that's cheap for a, for a bag. That's quality, that quality. It's not cheap, but it's, it's not just a bag though.
Andrew It's, it's Mystery Ranch. These are, these are zippers that like require some ass.
Everett And it's like, it's lifetime, right?
Andrew Uh, yeah. They, I don't, I'm not super familiar with their warranties. I've never had to use it and I've, I've done some shit to my hunting pack and I haven't even punctured it.
Everett I got another thing. Do me. Uh, probably about three months ago. Um, we were, I was talking about my bag, which I'm going to do a, long-term review on my bag here for another thing coming soon, because it's just amazing. But I was showing, I'd taken a picture of all the things I have in my bag, because my bag's not huge. It's kind of, the shape is particular, potentially even awkward, but it carries really well. But it just holds an incredible amount of stuff. And it's not like a bucket, like that Timbuk2 bag, It organizes it really well. And so I had just pulled everything out of the bag to kind of take a picture and show you guys like, here's all the shit I have in here. And it's impressive, right? Especially based on the size of the bag. It's not, you know, it's like, whoa, you got all that stuff in there. I think it's impressive. And you had cued in on a very small portion.
Andrew So quick. The most important detail of the photograph.
Everett I had a small stack of bills that I kind of shove in my bag and It was clipped with a binder clip, the small, the mini binder clip.
Andrew Which I love, by the way. I love those binder clips and I use them a lot.
Everett And you had like zoomed in and screenshotted it and circled it and you were like, get a fucking money clip. And I was like, this is fine. The binder clip is fine.
Andrew And you said, I have one. It's in the picture. I have one. It's right there. You're a fucking grown up, man.
Everett And I was like, you know what? He's right. I should get a money clip. I like nice things. Money clips are nice things. And I quickly discovered that there's not really like, there's not really like an iconic money clip. Like money clips are weird, where like there's not like a money clip that's been around for 50, 60 years that everybody's like, this is the one, get this one, this is a money clip. Like companies have money clips, they come and go, the styles change. Like a lot of people's money clips are like artisan things, You know, I picked this up in Mexico or whatever, right? Like they're just off-brand or maybe they're a brand, but they're not like a thing that's been around. I, so, so that kind of like, I think that's probably why I've never bought a money clip before. Cause I like to buy that thing. Like you want to buy the thing. This is the one, right? So like, if you're going to get a trench coat, you go get a Burberry. And if you don't get a Burberry, then you're maybe not even really wearing a trench coat, right? Maybe, yeah. You know, or like the Barracuda G9 jacket, right? Like 8 billion companies have made the Barracuda G9, but if you're not wearing a Barracuda, are you really wearing a Barracuda? And so it was, I was like, I wanted to find that for money clips, but it doesn't exist, right? That's not a real thing. The closest thing I could find was a money clip from Tiffany & Co. This is a money clip that they've made for a few dozen years from what I can tell. Maybe not even quite that long. It's in Tiffany's 1837 line. It's a sterling silver 925 money clip and it's got, I wouldn't say gaudy markings, but it's got like really discreet markings, a small Tiffany and co on one side and then taco on the other. That's right. Well, mine doesn't actually have that. So these things retail for what? 200, 275, 275 bucks, which is a chunk. That is a chunk of change for probably about $20 worth of sterling silver. I don't know how much sterling is worth. Maybe this is 50 bucks of sterling silver. I don't know. It's solid sterling silver. And I was like, you know, I'm not going to do it. I'm not going to spend $275 on this thing. I don't want it bad enough. The binder clip's fine. I want something classy. I sent you one that was bronze.
Andrew It had a baller stamp on it.
Everett I kind of want this one, but I don't want to pay that. And I was like, well, that's really easy, Everett. Go to eBay and buy a used one. And when I started looking for those, I was looking for, you know, you go to eBay and you can buy, like everything's new old stock now. Remember the time when eBay, everything was used?
Andrew Yeah. People were selling like their tie dye shirts.
Everett Yeah, that's right. You go to eBay now and it's, there's like probably more new stuff than there is used stuff. And so I, you know, I filter by used and I'm looking for one that's used, but in really good condition. I keep finding them and they're like, $180, $190, and then I find this one that has been really used. It says, like it's a Rolex, it says unpolished. I'm like, yeah, no shit. But it was $100. I'm doing the math. I'm like, $100 is a lot, but it's solid sterling silver. It's the one I like. So I bought this thing. I got it on eBay, so it took five or six days to get here. It gets here. I put my money in it. It does exactly what you'd expect it to do. I'm not going to tell you about the performance besides it's fine money clips, but I love it. I love it. It is. It's beautiful. It's really stunning. It's classic. It's like this little, it's like this little mini flex, right? Like I got these $200 bills inside a $100 Sterling money clip that says Tiffany on it. Yep. And I just love it. Like the, the second I got it, I was like, this is one of my favorite things. Way better than your binder clip. Like my kids are going to fight over this. Yeah. When I, when I die, like, Oh, that's dad's money clip. I want dad's Tiffany money clip.
Andrew Maybe Sterling will be worth more than the money at that point.
Everett You know, I don't know. I don't know. I don't know anything about that, but I do love that it's, you know, I also found through this process that I have an affinity for sterling silver more so than I thought, you know, I think sterling silver is cheap relatively for a precious metal. Uh, so I think it sort of was like not ever, it's, it's not the most in demand, but you know, like for instance, Tudor has their sterling silver, probably the most beautiful black bay, is that sterling silver one. You can't get it on a bracelet, which is like, want, want. But it's different because it's white. It's white. Stainless isn't white. Even when you really polish it, you know, sterling, even when it's like scuffed up, it stays white. And it's just this really compelling, beautiful- Almost even more than white gold. Yeah, yeah, it's definitely different. But yeah, like there's a difference between that and white gold. It's just really compelling metal. And it's beautiful. Anyway, I got this money clip. That's my other thing for the week because I love it. It's not anything special. We're gonna do something special. We're gonna put a link to the new one in the show notes because it doesn't make any sense to link to the one I got on eBay because it's mine. You can't have it.
Andrew It is for sale for $375. So if you want something that has ever its money for 375
Everett Um, but yeah, I just love it. I was like, this is one of my favorite little things that I've picked up in a while.
Andrew You're welcome for heckling you about it. Yeah. Yeah. You heckled me and forced me to buy it. And then everyone was in agreement. Like we, there was consensus that you were doing the wrong thing. It just stood out, right? You had this, this bag dump of like a well curated things. Really intentionally purchased Things and then 400 bucks sitting in a binder and a binder clip. I was like, what the what the fuck is this? I have one. No you you don't you you don't you are doing yourself a disservice right now Yeah, terrific, and I love it.
Everett You're welcome. Thank you Andrew anything else you want to talk about today?
Andrew That's probably it for me, man.
Everett Well, I just want to thank you guys at home or in the car We're in the car for joining us for another episode of 40 and 20 the watch clicker podcast. Uh, if you want to do us a favor, you can check us out at watch clicker.com. That's our website. We post every single episode of this podcast, but also weekly articles and reviews and other cool stuff about watches. So check us out, watch clicker.com. It helps us when you come and look at our stuff on the website. You can also check us out on social media at watch clicker or at 40 and 20 underscore watch clicker. That's where we post pictures of watches and updates about what we're doing. Really, really most importantly, if you want to support us, you can do that at patreon.com slash 40 and 20. We do this every week. Uh, we've been doing it every week for almost five years. You don't get paid for this, but we do have some expenses and the folks that support us on patreon.com allow us to pay for those expenses. So thank you for supporting us and check it out. Patreon.com slash 40 and 20. And don't forget to tune back in next Thursday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Buh-bye.